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If you've got an adjustable FPR you can get it 'tuned' to some extent. The tuner may also adjust ignition timing for a small gain, etc.. It all depends, if you're happy with your car the way it is.. then i wouldnt worry about it, as its more than safe enough at its stock rich map (depending on what boost you're running) to give a good thrashing. But, if you want to get the very most out of your current setup (could be another +1kw, or could be +10kw.. depends how the cars currently tuned.. who knows) then $300 is a good investment, to know you're getting the very most efficiency possible from the setup, plus the peace of mind that AFR's are good, etc. But yeah, imo, at least look at getting some adjustable cam gears, and some form of fuel management (even if its as simple as an adjustable FPR). An safc would be suitable for a cheap upgrade.

Its because of the 040. The 040 is a higher pressure pump than standard, so now your base rail pressure will be bumped up a fair bit. The way to get around this, is you need to knock the rail pressure back down to standard (or less in some cases). Get an adjustable fuel pressure reg and fuel pressure gauge; and either knock the base pressure back down to factory specs for an easy fix, or better yet find a good tuner to check AFR's with a wideband/lambda and set the pressure accordingly.

Also make sure you use some form of non-hardening thread locker on the bolts.

Either timing belt has skipped, or the adj. cam gears have loosened and turned. Because the CAS is run off a camshaft, any change in cam timing usually directly results in a change in ignition timing. Edit: sorry just re-read that you had cam timing checked... this is a strange one then.

No worries mate! Cooler now sold!

Cooler sold, pending payment. Price drop on turbos. Now $30ea!

Bump ppl

Burnt oil is blue smoke, unburnt oil is black. So if the turbo's got a bung seal and its spewing fresh oil into the exhaust side, it'll look black.

Just a few bits and pieces that've been sitting around taking up space for far too long. Parts are located in Ballarat, VIC. No postage at this stage sorry guys. Item: Trust SMIC Age: Not sure Condition: Good, though needs an external clean Price: $40ono To Fit: (What car) R32 GTST (could also fit others, unsure) Location: Ballarat, VIC Contact: PM or TXT on 0417567193 Comments: Much thicker than the stock SMIC. Cheap upgrade if you're looking for more flow, but not the attention a shiny FMIC draws. Bolts into stock SMIC place, no modifications needed! ___________________________________________________________ Item: Stock RB20 Turbo (16V stamp) x2 (two of) Age: ~18yrs? Condition: Unsure, both have hardly any freeplay at all, no chipped or bent fins, both spin freely. Price: $50ono each (or take em both for $70, and have the elbow, dump and r33 actuator) To Fit: (What car) R32 GTST (could also fit others, unsure) Location: Ballarat, VIC Contact: PM or TXT on 0417567193 Comments: Stock RB20 turbos. The complete one was off my car, removed at 90,000kms. One has compressor housing removed (bolts missing sorry). Please excuse the poor quality photos. Cheers, Phil.

Slipping clutch maybe? If you put the car in 4th or 5th gear while doing 60-70km/h and put the throttle to the floor, does the car just rev out but not gain any speed? Or you've bodged a tacho output signal wire somewhere.

Stuffed turbo mate.. I think the smoke is coming from beneath the catch can (turbo), but it makes it look like the can istelf is smoking.

Possibly some sort of sequential TT setup?

Couldnt an EBC be setup in a similar fashion?

Eek... no good man. Best thing would be to soak the whole thing with something like concentrated simple green (or something else that breaks grease/oil down and wont be harsh on fabric), and hose it down with decent pressure. Then stand the seat up longways so it all drips downwards. You'll probably have to repeat this a few times though, to get the oil to break down and flush it out.

Make sure the BOV is adjusted/tensioned propperly if its an adjustable one. It might be set too weak.

Hey mate, which side of melb are you on? Cheers.

stock bov?

Sounds like rich mixture exhaust backfire. Wouldnt worry at all.

I'm running an rb25 nylon wheel turbo on my 20 @ just under 1bar, starts spooling around 2000rpm'ish.. full boost by 3600ish, thats with cam gears also. Great midrange with basically fark all lag! pulls hard enough to around ~6500-6800rpm. Great upgrade for a direct, no stuffing around, bolt on.

Check ignitor module... CAS will be fine if you're getting injector pulse.

I've been running one in an r32 gtst for 6months now.. and its posed no problems whatsoever... although it is a tad on the noisy side compared to a stocker lol, but that doesnt worry me one bit.

Yep exactly. The best thing you can do with it for the moment is slightly lean the low throttle up to say 3000rpm for a bit better economy. Don't go crazy with it though (wouldnt go more than -4 or 5 points). I wouldnt even bother attempting setting up the high throttle without a decent lambda or wideband. Before you get the tune done, make sure your fuel systems in good order. Replace the fuel filter... you dont want to get a tune done on a blocked filter, then change the filter one day and wonder why its so much richer than before. etc..

I see no question marks in the OP lol. Interesting point to raise though... i guess without the basic knowledge, tools and confidence to pull parts off an engine, it makes no difference whether SAU is here for reference or not.

Tried swapping AFM with a known working one?

Just wondering if this mod poses any safey concerns relating to the fuel pump safety shut off (ie, event of an accident)? Or is it totally unrelated? Cheers.