9krpm

Geeezz I did not realise there is someone on here who takes free medical advice with more than a grain of salt. Statistically 90% of the typical cases will resolves in 6-9 weeks anyway. Neil symptoms sound more serious than typical. Lets discuss anyway.... True, however common things happen commonly. From the very brief history and lack of any traumatic injury place spondylosis highest on the list of differential diagnoses. Other causes are A-Z. 70+ % on XR for over 40 year old Yes, common cause is that he slept wrong (or slept with it as giant suggested) but doesn't quite exclude A-Z. The chance of a lesion involving all 3 (radial, median and ulnar) nerves somewhere in the forarm or the nerves around the arm (without any effect on the bicep or triceps) causing partial paralysis of the hand are remote. Brachial plexus lesion is possible but often gradual and almost all of my TOS diagnosese revolved with appropriate cervical management. Most likely diagnosis is multilevel cervical spondylosis with osteophytes especially around C6/7 to T1 with impingement of C7, C8 and possibly T1 nerve roots. This still doesnt change the proability of A-Z lol 70+% of people over 40 wil have cervical spondylosis Cervical Xray has poor sensitivity/specificity. It's a waste of time and money in my trade and in this case. I would advise the patient to save money, wait for a few more week and if he/she doesnt get better then get an MRI scan...if there isn't any red flag on further history or examination That's because of poor study techniques not because the medication doesn't work for those synovial joints. That is true but not everyone race a cool car like Neil and still like to race even with this amount of problem. In all seriousness, I agree with you invasive treatment is the last resort for some diagnosis but is the first line for some diagnosis according to the current literature (and my experience). My advices for long term prevention still stand. Remember this diagnosis is only from an incomplete history. Obviously the working diagnoses will change as one get more information from examination and investigations....it's like playing Texas Holem lol...just one is more fun than the other

The Hans device should helps a little if you have mil to mod cervical spondylosis. Having little motor function sounds a bit more serious than moderate cervical spondylosis. Have you had any CT scan or MRI scan? I would recommend a CT guided cortisone injection, Glucosamine and use as much neck protection as possible if you wish to continue motorsport; -good helmet -Leatte brace/hans device -race seat with neck support -window net

I have a trust sump extension as well. Although it is a bit low, it's the depth and the pick up extension that make it effective. Most track cars in Japan use them and have proved that it is a reliable unit. If the sump is too close to the ground then may be your r32 is too low...unless you have modified your suspension mounting points.

The AEM standalone is a good computer. I have it on my turbo honda S2000. It's very userfriendly. MD tuned a couple of s2k with the AEM ecu. The AEM F/IC piggyback is still in the work and "had" a lot of issues for some cars. I have not look at it for some time and I am not up to date with this unit. They might have sorted out the issues but it is still a piggy back unit and for the price, why not shop around for a used Emanage Ultimate.

Thanks Uras. I will be be in GC for some time and not sure when I will be back to SA. MD offered to help but I don't really want to send the car down and risk blowing it up during transport. His friend is helping me out up here. His friend has more experience, support and confidence with the Autronic, so that is being installed atm. At the end of the day it's all up to the tuner for me. The ECU is just a tool that sometimes makes the job easier.

Beautiful welding and cage work mate. Thanks for the thread it has been a good read *Waiting in anticipation to see how you fabbed the side intrusion bar. It seems that everyone does this differently*

No it was not MD Trent. If it was MD it would have been a max of 1 hour. He knows my engine like the back of his hand. I am in Gold Coast atm, I wished I sent the car back to Adelaide.

can you pm me your email?

This is a very nice project. Love to see some more pictures. The only Achilles I can see in your setup is the gearbox. It will get you in the 9 but be very difficult to get into the 8 with it. How fast has Mark and Paul done in this box? Theo Woollett, got into the 8 with the ppg dog box, but it took him a very long time. His gearbox maintenance bill, if he was not sponsor, would have been very big too. While you are still at the drawing board stage, it might be worthwhile to think about a sequential gearbox (OS88 or Hollinger). It will save you a lot of money and heart ache in the long run.

....and an authorised Vipec dealer told me he took more than 10 hours to retune and switched my car over to E85. The tune was also that good that I ripped the ecu out of my car. My V88 + r32 gtr adaptor board is for sale if someone like so save a few dollar. This is also a free community service announcement

Just to name a few -more space in engine bay -better weight distribution -don't have to worry about the belt -don't have to worry about over hearing p/s fluid So do you know much power the electric pump will rob off the engine?

I am sorry if this is posted in the wrong section, but I wasn't sure where is the best place for this. This pump should generate a couple of hundreds of PSI so it is fairly forced inducted I an looking at converting the old hydraulic pump to an electrical system. I am still not sure what pump to get but I read somewhere that the pressure generate is somewhere in the vicinity of 850+psi or something. How reliable is the electrical pump for this job? What pump have you used? Any maintenance/failure? Which pump is reliable? Could you please snap and share some pics of your setup?

I just received an email from Jun. FTW they recommended "Take centre angle 110 degree from TDC for intake cam and 115 degree for exhaust cam" It is good to see they are doing something similar to what we usually do in Australia, takes 2 from intake and add up to 4 for exh from the centre line for Jap cams So I guess your 112 for centre line is correct Unique1. Thanks mate

Thanks for that Unique. It's been a while since I played with cams and I was only taught how to dial the cams with the specified crank angles at max lifts, not duration. I will give it a try. bigmikespec, yes these big lifters needs retainers and springs. It has larger valves too so had a bit of head work. It's an engine in a track car so it will get a new set of springs and retainers every couple of years when I pull it apart for maintenance.

Remember that we are assuming the power loss (drive train and traction) between the gears are constant with these discussion. Obviously if they read the same at every single vehicle speed, it just means that you lost power in one of the run. That is completely different to comparing response between a 3rd gear power run with another 4th gear power run. Or in some case, I've seen people compare 2 different cars. Why did I get drag into dyno comparison talk in the first place. Dyno is just a tuning tool

I am hoping to dial in my Jun 272 11.35mm cams (for a rb26/30) before a retune but I can't seem to find any info on them. I've checked their website but still not able to find out exactly what crank angles the intake and exhaust are at max lift http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/cylinder...ft-rb26.html?en Has anyone got the these info handy? Thanks in advance for sharing

All pm's replied. Intercooler, Blitz injectors, and BDI fuel rail are waiting for payment.

HKS Kansai torque controller sold. Will take reasonable offers for the remains.

The t/f cases are the same. Preload is from the hydraulic system (Attesa + pump).

pm's replied

This may be helpful if you dont have a copy yet http://www.mrm-racing.se/bag/SM4MANUAL.pdf

^ yes that is correct.

Sorry guys, some how I did not see your post in "My topics" The BDI fuel rail 105 mm The good thing about this rail is that it has a lot of meat where the injectors fit onto the rail so you can drill it out to fit 14mm injectors if you want to go bigger down the track. I only realised that last night when I tidied up my house. Could have save me a couple of hundred bucks when if I looked at if carefully before I bought another rail for the indy blue injectors Greddy fuel rail 10.5 mm HKS copy Intercooler....I seriously thought it was a HKS because it came with the car and copes with the 600 rwhp I only found out this when I upgraded it to a slightly larger one recently, here are the pictures Inlet Outlet Front Rear Dyno with the intercooler Greddy 11mm fuel rail and Nismo fuel reg are sold. All of the injectors comes with clips and all O-rings for direct bolt on. That's at least 100-150 bucks free

.....and seriously my engine was a drag engine, from Willall's drag car. It was built from scratch with Japanese parts, did a couple of runs when Willall last raced in QLD, pulled out for freshening and then used as paper weight in their shop because the drag strip in Adelaide closed. So I bought it make good use out of it for the past 2-3 years. So I think it's a bit harsh when you brag about having faster 60' time than them when they have no access to any local drag strip to test their car and also the drag car has no engine for the past 2-3 years. Sorry if I was a bit harsh on you before for that. Again, I am not a hard core drag racer, so I don't actually know your or willall 60' times. If you are faster then congrats.

Nah buddy, I was not referring to you directly when I mentioned the "special garages". I was referring to the last tuner that I used who bagged that tune had too much timing, claimed that he could produce more power with less timing and did not give me a dyno printout with the E85 fuel at the end. After weeks of waiting for the dyno printout in the emails, I retested the car on 2 different dyno and it not only did not gain any more power (with the E85) it was dangerously lean. That tuner obviously had a copy of the tune from my my power fc and told/show you. I barely know of you through this forum and obviously have not told/give you the MD street tune. You see all of this wouldn't have come out if you did not drag my highly regarded tuner's name out to say that your car has been safely tuned on race fuel and has 5 degrees less timing than my MD street pump fuel tune. I certainly do not know how much boost, timing advance or 60' time you had. I did not at any time said you have too much timing. My main points were you should not compare engine response with 1. power/boost ratio because there are too many variables that affect boost (without going into much details of Boyle's law and resistance) and power. I'll give you an example, your setup has a larger intercooler than almost all track cars because airflow to the radiator is more important for circuit setup. The larger cooler helps lower the intake temperature --> lower pressure (Boyle Law). So your setup gain power/boost ratio because of the intercooler in this case and has nothing to do with the engine. Power/effective compression is slightly more accurate but still doesnt take into consideration of blowby and air density. There are probably some good equations to use for comparison but I dont know because I am not a mechanical engineer 2. dyno runs in different gears and on a dyno graphs with speed on the x-axis for reasons I explained earlier. It's best not to compare dyno graphs between different dyno at all, but if one must then (god I hate saying this) it is slightly more reasonable to use power Vs engine speed. Dirtgarage, I still like to see your dyno graph with full boost and race fuel with the GT-RS. This is only one of my hobby, I am not on this forum to take or hold grudges. No hard feeling buddy.