9krpm

Duncan, I was hoping for an answer mate and not more question lol Duncan, the tension rod bar is a bar that connects the 2 front mounting points for the 2 caster rods. It goes across the car. It sits roughly just underneath the front point of the oem sump. Unfortunately it does not offset far enough forward to clear an extended sump.

In short YES There are 5 available maps with Paul's controller. Each map modifies the lat sensor signal. Map 1 has the same characteristics as the the original signal. The other maps produce earlier or later responses. The gain on all 5 maps are tunable. One out of 2 maps can be selected by a toggle switch. There are so many tuning points For the amount of power I try to put down around the circuit, my car normally goes sideway if I put my foot down to early around the corner. This usually costs time. I managed to distract Paul from his busy schedule of organising the Nissan Anual Track meet, secure a unit and hook it up before the track day. With so much things to do with the car before the track day I did not get a chance to test this unit at all. I had a quick flick through the manual and left it on Map 2 with a toggle on for Map 1. The track condition was dam on the day. There were water puddle, dirt and mud on the track at most places. My RE55 were also worn to the indicators. Despite all of that, I had even less sideway movement than before, was able to get on the gas earlier and was able to do a few 4wd power slide. I had very little test time with the unit and came first in the GTR class and also fastest Nissan of the day. I am confident that with a few more tweaks it will be awesome. As others said, this unit should be standard on the GTR Thanks for all your help and for producing an awesome product Paul. I have another question (or suggestion) Paul With the current firmware, can you set the toggle switch to the same Map with different gain levels eg Toggle on Map 1 of 10 and Toggle OFF with Map1 of 80?

We shouldn't get carry away with Honda on a forum like this lol I wont post some rolled s2k pictures to scare you but yes you are right honda claims that the car is something like 1250kg but I think that is a dry weight. Still too heavy for a little thing. It looks like you had a lot of practice in this s2k. You seem to know exactly how the car behave.

My turbo-dump pipe gaskets blew and I am getting parts for this big job. After a bit of shopping around, the joy of having rare turbo lol, I ordered a set of gasket from a well known turbo place in NSW. I did stress to them that the turbo exhaust housing is thicker than standard garret turbo and so are the gaskets. A few days later, I received 2 sets of permaseal kits for RB26. The gaskets are the samet gaskets for my old high flowed N1 (garrett) turbo and look like this The tracing on the background is a template of the gaskets that came along with the greddy t618Z turbo. It also mate up perfectly to my new Trust extension and dump pipe kit. Is it reliable to use this gasket? Where can I order the Greddy turbo gasket?

Sensational drive there Boz!!! I own a turbo s2k as well and I fully understand how twitchy this high powered, short + narrow wheel base car it can be. After seeing how you steered I realised why I can't drive my s2k as fast as my bnr32.......I need LOTS of lap time with it. Very inspirational drive Boz. If you do come to QLD to teach, please drop me a PM. I will try my best to attend PS I am surpised that Elias has not put a roll cage in that car yet Do you know the weight of the car?

Thanks Al. My sway bar has nil problem with the sump. It's a tension bar which, is not standard, holds the 2 front parts where the caster arm bolt to the chassis.

The BP for the project mu is 335C dry. The highest I've seen. I hope it works as they claimed. You might be right with the Motul at QR Mike. We did not have any where to cool the car down at Lakeside and my AP setup did not like it.

I bought a cusco tension bar and tried to install it last night. I realised that the Trust sump extension gets in the way. If the cusco has a bit more offset to the front it would clear the sump easily. Is there anything out there that has more offset than the cusco?

I tried the Motul at Lakeside. The brake got really spongy and I only had 3 sessions. Just bled all of it out with Project mu. Its $85 for 1 L, so its not too bad.

What about a separate oil system with cooler. pump and reservoir? That could of save a few turbo when the engine lets go and the turbo always get a fresh. cool supply of oil.

Dare I say if you try to run a mid 9 for 1/4 mile you may need it. The stock oem centre plate seems to work well with the os gears in high power gtr.

? including delivery

How much is the os centre plate and where can you get it from?

GTAAAH, everything help but you will be sacrificing a lot of work and $$$ for quicker response and possibly some more top end....depending on your setup.

I know you did your best for the given situation and was very helpful too Thanks for all of your help Beer Baron. Advan just happen to keep one in stock for a clearance price. Hopefully the local freight will get it here before this weekend I agree with you R. There are a lot of highly intelligent pple in this game . If anything the larger 1 piece extension pipe should help with the boost build up better than the 2 pieces (I am working on the assumption that the main exhaust pipe on the greddy is smaller than the single one pipe). The 2 piece should have better top end torque if built correctly. I have a custom extension pipes with a Mines collector. I had to use a custom extension pipes for the greddy turbo because the Mine extension pipes were designed for Gattett type turbo. I changed to a larger pair of greddy and had issues with tubo dump gasket leak. I am not entirely sure if its because of the supplied greddy nuts/studs, greddy gaskets, the flanges on the custom extension pipes are not wide enough or installation issues. I would hate to do this again so I ordered covered all bases to prevent this issues again. At the moment my engine setup gets +ve pressure at 2100rpm with the race exhaust and around 6-700rpm later with the street exhaust. My torque curve rolls off a bit at top end. I am not sure if this is because I had semislick on the roller and a weak clutch or a slightly restrictive exhaust or small low mount turbs. I've been wondering if the screamer pipes will help with the top end torque. I doubt that there will be enough room to do this but it will be good to see if anyone had attempted to squeeze a sreamer pipe into the Greddy extension pipe.

It's great to see that the SAU search button works well I am not sure if you are still active or not but thanks for all of the information Lucien I've just ordered a Greddy Extension pipe from Advan Performance Centre and looking forward to the installation. The guys there are very helpful I have a pair of Greddy low mount turbo so I don't have much option beside the Greddy or CES racing or some other custom extension pipe. A lot of people are saying that the Greddy/CES pipes will bring on boost earlier than other aftermarket pipes without the separated wastegate pipes. How is this possible when during boost build up the wastegates should be closed anyway? My car is mainly used for track days. I am planning to get the local exhaust shop to weld 2 removable plates on the 2 wastegate pipes. The plates will be removed at the track to vent the wastegate exhaust out into the atmosphere. I will get them to fabricate 2 little pipes to hook up to this opening and direct this gas somewhere safe, away from any plastic stuffs. Has anyone done this? Are there any benefits and most importantly any potential problems in doing this?

If you take the car to the circuit, I think it would be wise to upgrade the 5th as well. I use my OS 5th gear a fair bit on the track. It's not that bad on the highway. Don't waste a well made gear.

Sorry to hear Where about is this workshop? Woolloongabba?

Sorry to hear Andy BTW how much does your car weight atm? How useful is the larger spoiler at Mallala?

Very nice time Andrew...you are doing very well. Car looks very nice too

It's best to get pressure reading from the manifold. The further your sensors are from the manifold the lesser fluctuation in pressure they will see. Mine is bridged but still get reading from one point on the intake manifold.

Use the red thread tape from Bunning. It's a bit better than the white one If that doesn't work then try to return the kit

Thanks for the offer Paul but I will need this job back urgently as my builder is about to bolt the my stroked honda s2000 engine together. Thanks Simonster, I will give comp coating a call. Cheers Dan

Where did you get that blue bar from? I don't wish to pull my engine out yet but would love to have a crack at this one day. Thanks for the write up. Nice work mate.

I dont think so I've driven all of these cars except the T67. The one with TD06 had nismo tacho, which reads 10% higher than OEM so if I am off it would only be around that. The T618Zs hit full boost at 4-4.5krpm on an oem tacho. There is no way the td06 get full boost/torque at the same time. It certainly feels different as well. All of these cars have OS 2996cc engine with drag race cams (that's as much as I can tell you. If you like to know the spec, ask Willall) so it might be a bit later than what you would expect for street or circuit prep car.