9krpm

Thanks for sharing that Trent. That confirms what I saw on street testing. I switched from the Mine's dump and extension pipes to the same Trust/Greddy kit and saw boost came on earlier by around ~300rpms. If you think about it, it doesn't seem logical given that the gates are closed during most of low-mid range but I am sure there is a bit more physic behind the exhaust flow in the smaller Greddy's main dumps than the Mine's dumps.

I had a custom made dump pipe and then switched to the Trust. It is more responsive with the Trust.

What cams are in the engine and what ecu?

Thanks guys and thanks Linton for the suggestion. You are right it looked very clear and clean from the picture. However with the heat and dirt from the track, the clearness has been lost. For my track car I think I will go back to the stock cover because it is more durable and black I am only up to ~ early 2008. There is still a bit more R&D's and steep learning curve on this car. The 3.0L and pair of T517z made the car almost too easy to drive and similar to a V8 with small turbo or the 996TT. There was a huge torque in midrange and this tapers off at top end. From the butt dyno it felt as if the car runs out of breath....which is of course not true on the real dyno. Willall Racing spent a lot of dyno time to get the optimal tune however that was what the turbochargers could flow and they were restricting top end performance of this engine. The setup would be close to perfect for a circuit car. However that was not the only intention of this project and also I prefer cars with strong midrange and top end torque. They are a bit more exhilarating to control. After test driving my car and 2 other GTR's with identical OS Giken engines, tuners, pump fuel etc but with different turbo. The other cars had HKS T04Z and twin TD06. We ditched the T517z and went for it's larger brother T618Z 10cm. I know that this will certainly affect circuit time but will make the car more exhilarating to drive.

Why bother with the O2 sensor? The RB26 is not a fuel efficient engine and having the O2 won't help much. I changed my Mines dump and front pipe, which is similar to the Tomei dump, to the Greddy and gained a few hundreds rpm of boost response. BTW does your Greddy front pipe have a flex pipe? If it doesn't, it would be best to get one installed.

It made 412rwkw with the 10cm in Adelaide. I then had a few things done at a workshop in Woolloongabba, QLD and lost power. It took a while and lots of wasted $$$ to get back to close to that figure. Lesson No 1 learned; never take the GTR to a bad workshop. Yes it was around 11.3 or 11.4 at 126mph with circuit wheel alignment (front 4+ and rear 2+ camber), cage and full sound system lol I will try to dig out a video of the run Yes it is. Car is on the hoist waiting for the old engine to go back in. Anyway, my mate was able to retrieve some of the image from the hard drive last weekend and I did not have time lst weekend to take pictures of the oil coolers. Sorry Car in Glenelg, last pic before surgery The new and the old OS Cam Gear Turbo Stock Intake plenum OS Giken 1 way lsd ATI crank pulley Race pullies What a big carrot, come on R32.... I know you want it Getting there Ready for testing....my obscession with black, stock looking engine bay and air conditioner in this project is fairly obvious in the next picture Testing at Mallala Lesson No 2: RB 26/30 is a PITA to bleed coolant and needs an ARC (or equivalent) automatic bleed system Testing was cut short and was only done in low boost due to air bubble and overheating on track. Car was ~2 second faster than the old engine even on low boost. My good friend who has been a big help in this project...he did most of the spanner work initially when I was so busy with work

Sorry for the late reply my hard drive died and my mate is trying to recuperate some of the data and images at the moment. The next project will be a different car without street registration. This car will be detuned to suit the Superlap Street Class. It has too much torque for racing in the required street tyres atm. Anyway, I bought the OS Giken long motor from Willall's Drag R32, when it came out for a refreshment after a couple of 8 seconds passes at 2005 Jamboree in QLD. The engine was sitting in their garage collecting dust after refreshment because of the Adelaide International Drag strip closure since 2005. My car was sent to Adelaide safely but sat at a mate's workshop for a while because he was busy with his new business. I eventually went down to drop the engine in with the assistance of his mechanic. I took a few pictures but the bloody hard drive had it. BTW don't buy Lacie hard drive. They claimed that their 2nd generation hard drive is safer...well apparently not Hopefully my mate will be able to retrieve the data on the hard drive. I will snap some more pictures of the oil coolers this weekend.

Yes hopefully the next project will be a bit more serious than this one because it will be a track only car. I am very fortunate to meet a lot of kind and helpful people who have certainly made the decision to part this current project and take on the next one a bit easier. Thanks (I had a fair share of bad workshops and disappointments with this project too but they wont get mentioned on here. If there is nothing nice to say, it's best not to.) N1GTR and noone, the coolers are PWR oil cores, VDO oil pump, fitted to the diff and transfer case via welded on bungs, braided line and Earl fittings. For the diff you can get the Trust diff cover which has extra volume and ports for oil cooler. However, I did not want to add extra weight and got fittings weld onto the rear and top of the oem cover. Oil return is at the top driver side of this cover. The car is on a hoist at the moment, if you like more pictures I can take a few snap shots.

Using as a paper weight at the moment Box was replaced with a 5 speed OS gearbox. In my opinion, this box is one of the best gearbox for a street and track car. It has been so reliable and low maintenance. The gear shift is not as nice as the dogbox but it is the best bang for buck. I took the car to Willowbank drag strip and only had 2 runs because the rear axle snapped. First run was 11.3 @ 126mph which was far from it's goal. Axle was replaced and car went onto the interstate truck for a new engine.

The car behaved reasonably well on the track and was doing 57sec on the sprint track at Queensland Raceway in early 2006. However due to work commitment, lack of time to race and power hunger, car was sent to D&D Motor and Willall Racing in Adelaide for some more power. PPG 5 speed box also had it.

Some more parts to improve cooling, safety and reliability Rear differential cooler Transfer case cooler and 2x 044 fuel pumps Front diff sump extension AP 6 pots front and AP 4 pots rear to improve deceleration Some go fast bits ACPT carbon fiber shaft Bilstein coilovers

I've always wanted to build a versatile R32 GTR that can be driven legally on the street, capable of 9 sec on the drag strip and still go hard on the circuit. When I bought the car a few years ago, the project looked doable....however with recent changes in the transport legislation and racing requirement rules (mainly cage and tyres allowance) I've a change of plan. I just like to share some memories and appreciations of friends/shops that was helpful during it's development, before the car get sold or strip back back to stock. Car is a very clean 1994 V spec R32 bought in 2005 with a freshly rebuilt PPG box with the lot. First mod was a Power FC D Jetro and a complete service + retune by Willall Racing. Car made 412rwkw on the roller. First track day was stopped short by a broken PPG input shaft on decceleration after about 3 warm up laps During the repair, the first safety mod went in 4 points bolt in cage from Walker Chassis Sound deadening materials and oem carpet was removed and replaced with a lighter/thinner carpet...can be seen in the below picture Other mods in the cars were (sorry for the dirty pictures but they were taken when I was selling these parts) A pair of T517Z Greddy Turbo Mines 70mm dump pipes Mines tuned front pipe Titanium cat back exhaust and a few other mods that can be seen in the engine bay

A set of Strange Carbon Brake Kit for a R32 will be nice http://www.strangeengineering.net/newprod/...Brake-Kits.html

I dont think so. How high the oil get pushed up the line depends on -the depth of the line below the oil level -the surface area of the oil in the sump -the density of the oil -the radius of the line -the surface pressure of the oil in the sump (crank pressure + atmospheric pressure) -downward force (gravitational force + force exert by the shocks/car movement + atmospheric pressure) Once the oil ,inside this hose, reaches it's max height, the pressure on top of it's surface will be less than or equal to the pressure inside the cam cover. If you use oil with viscocity thin enough for it to pour out of a bottle when you tip the bottle upside down, this oil will always trickle down from the cams area down toward the sump because of either the pressures difference or the gravitational force. It will then displace some oil inside the line back into the sump until all of the forces equilibriate

Same here, my car used to make low 400rwkw with just a Nismo in tank pump too I now use it as a feeder for the surge tank and 2x044.

Thanks for the comment Cerbera lol I enjoy the discussion, you are very switch on too I am sure there is some but not significant enough if the crank pressure is high. The analogy to this is like having an air pump on the ground, connected to a plastic tube with the other end in the fish tank full of water, why doesn't water run down into the pump? It's because water particle doesn't have enough energy to go against the air momentum/resistance into the tube. Matter (liquid, solid or gas) just follow the least resistance path.

Cerbera, yes that is right but when the lower end of the oil return hose is below the oil level, the crank pressure will be trying to move a column of oil against gravity up that oil return hose to the head. The height of this oil rise is inversely proportion to the size of the hose ie the bigger the return hose the lower the oil climb up this hose (for the same crank pressure). As I said earlier, hypothetically, if the crank pressure is high enough and the oil return line is too small then it can actually shoot oil up the head If the return point is above the oil level, air will get push up that hose. Oil from the head can still return to the sump in the first case but not the later case. Now I am looking at it from a theoretical static point. In real life, oil will slush around the sump and there might be little different between the 2 depends on what the car is doing. However, return point below oil level is always more effective than a crank vent to the head..... in theory Ideally there should be a pump, which just need to provide a slightly higher pressure than the crank pressure, attached to the line to assist the oil return.

The first picture is above the oil level and the last 2 pictures are below the sump oil level.

Yes you are right Cerbera, the overall crank pressure is only affected by blowby. However I was referring to the pressure under each "piston/cylinder" section and the oil/air flow. Sorry I did not explain it properly. For clarification I think this drain will only vent the crank pressure and these 2 drains are good for oil return in high boost and rpm application

Beer Baron, what people often forget to factor in is that the pistons push a fair amount of air not only on their top surfaces but on their bottom surfaces as well (during their movement inside the engine). Therefore IMHO oil retention in the head is not just from the increase in oil pump output at high rpm but also as a result of crank pressure at high rpm impeding the oil return. Anyway, whether the head oil return line return excess oil from the head depends on the location of the lower end of the return line. - If it's above the sump oil level it will act as a crank vent ie non of the oil from the head will return via this line.....as reported by many RB owners on the other thread. - If the oil drain is below the sump oil level then some oil from the head will more than likely return via this oil return hose with gravity and g-force. There is a disclaimer for this as well. It will only drain oil if the hose is large enough and the crank pressure is not too high. If the crank pressure is too high and the hose is too small then it can potentially shoot oil from sump to head via this hose Sorry for the long winded post ....just my 2c with common sense and basic physic understanding

Yes that's right but the common wisdom doesn't usually run 2 bars of boost Beer Baron. Run more than 2 bars of boost then the blowby and oil flow will change significantly.

The sump is 1.7cm below the subframe. The sump cooling fins is another 0.8cm lower.

Uras, I will measure it this week end for you. From the look of it, probably around ~ 3cm +/- 2 I've been racing the GTR with this sump for the past few years without any prob.

Here is the link Trent http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...41#entry4931341

I heard that Mr K W was behind the wheel as well. Big congrat!