Slim Mat

Update: Car has been put back together today and is ready for pick up. A nice SAU member helped me out with some turbos for a lot less than what the workshop was going to charge me. I still got stung though, all up it's cost me over 3 grand to get the thing fixed including some $900 worth of gaskets and studs or some shit....must be made out of gold. Word of warning; try to source your own parts from someone who sells things at realistic prices, JustJap has turbo gasket and studs for around $200.

Update: deal with previous seller fell through - apparently the turbos had to be removed and when he got them off one of the them was half seized. I'm still looking so I'll sort through some of your PM's later and work something out.

Interested in the turbos. PM sent.

My apologies, I posted my original thread in the wrong section because I am an idiot and failed to notice the Want to Buy section. I though I'd post this again (the other thread was removed) for posterity for those who helped me out and were involved. Long story short, one of the original ceramic turbos on my R32 GT-R literally shit the bed and the workshop found the remnants in the cat. Didn't have much luck finding a second hand one locally, can't afford new ones, and the turbo shop I went to said it wouldn't be much cheaper to rebuild them. I then asked here if anyone had some. At this stage I have contacted member livicuru in regards to purchasing a second hand set. It's a bit odd though, the other turbo seemed fine, but the workshop told me the car wasn't boosting at all. Any ideas? SAU member gtr jet pointed me in the direction of some rebuild kits on ebay that are supposed to be for R32 turbos, but the guys at the turbo shop told me that my turbos are ball bearing not journal bearing like the kit has in it. Is there an easy way to tell what kind of turbo they are without pulling them apart and if the rebuild kit will suit them? Ideally, I would have liked to do a rebuild and at least upgrade to steel turbines.

Hi Ladies and Gents I've been looking for work for a few months now and I'm having a bit of trouble getting into something. There haven't been a lot of jobs advertised in Perth that are really up my alley. If I knew how to manage a store or something I'd be alright, there's heaps of businesses looking for managers, but I wouldn't know what to do in that sort of position. I'm 21 and being a fully qualified mechanic is probably the best thing that I have going for me. I'm also really good with computers and electronics. However, I would be open to try new avenues of work. It seems that the application stage here in the city takes ages to get through, because I've applied for some jobs and it's been up to a month later when I here back. I could really use a hand to get into some work, so if you know a place that's looking for workers or someone that can help me out please get in touch with me on the forum. PM is probably the best way to go. What are some good employment agencies in Perth? Cheers

Hi SAU, Finally had the Power FC installed and tuned my R32 GT-R, woohoo! Basically it's stock, has some funky exhaust and twin pod filters. It made 280HP at all wheels on the AWD Dyno Dynamics dyno(Shootout mode) at Top Racing in Perth, WA! I'm pretty stoked considering it is only running standard boost(about 12psi). I was also surprised at how much more that is over the factory rated power levels of about 280HP at the engine, considering it's what, something like 20% driveline loss? I'll post a picture of the printout later. The other hugely significant thing noticed is that I am not suffering from the cold start driveability problem that has plagued several of us here on the forum, those that have it will understand how frustrating it is in the morning. As I diagnosed in previous topics about this problem, it is an ECU related issue. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...te-t213464.html Goodluck Slim

I'm sorry, I don't know exactly where to hook it up, but, I would be very careful about wiring into your coils, you wouldn't want to fry your new tacho. Also extra wiring may interfere with the signal to the coils and cause the engine to run rough or miss etc.

Anyone else out there with spare G sensors?

Anyone? Come on really need one.....

Hi SAU, 4WD light is on and I checked the codes, flash 11 and 13. Manual says G sensor problem. Under further diagnosis I have found the sensor to be fingered. Does anyone know if there are alternative options to using the G sensor to control the 4WD? If not, does anyone have a second hand sensor to suit a 1993 R32 GT-R, from a car they might be wrecking or whatever. As long as the little glass tube on the front it white not red! My poor GT-R is very ordinary now without the 4WD. Thanks.

Hahah, thanks for all the helpful responces boys and girls. Would be handy if we could get a picture of the g sensor location like the one that Warp3D posted!

Haha, like my title? Does any one know where the G sensor is mounted on an R32 GT-R I have flash codes: 11. G sensor 1 problem and, 13. G sensor 1, 2 or curcuit problem from the ETS controller. I need to know where the sensor is located so that I can test it. Thanks

I am also very interested in this topic as my car is the same, very harsh and I would like to change the coilovers. Please help us folks, what coilovers are good for bumpy roads?

Agreed. Try what paul has suggested.

Here is a picture of what they look like:

Hello, I'm chasing a set of 4 x Volk CE28N's. Does anyone have a link to a website that sells them in Aus or knows a dealer that can get them? Or does anyone have a set that they would like to sell, in good condition? Could some one recommend some sizings to suit an R32 GT-R, what size, stud pattern dimensions, width and offset. Also a price on the ce28n's. Thanks everyone

PM sent

I would think that using the same part would generally be a good start. I don't really know anything about fitting an R33 subframe into an R34.

RB26DETT here: Sits on 4 ish when cold. When it heats up it sits on 2 ish. If drive it hard, with some full throttle etc, it drops right down to 1 or below. As the oil heats up the pressure should drop. Changes will vary between oils, a low viscosity at hot oil (ie: 5w/30 or 10w/40) will have a lower pressure than a higher viscosity at hot oil (ie: 5w/50 or 10w/60). The second number refers to the oils hot temp weight.

Haha Yeah, bloody car dealers, can't trust 'em.

Don't buy a really expensive cluster because it has low kms, they are really easy to set the kms on properly. Did mine myself and haven't had any problems with it. I think I still have a guide on how I did it on my PC somewhere, if you want it PM me. You maybe able to use the sketches I made to fix the one you have, or you can always just get a new one and use the guide to set the kms to where yours was. It's a good idea to keep your old one so you can prove the kms to others. Also Duncan, don't be such a negative nancy. That is one explaination. Believe it or not but things in cars do actually break/stop working, especially when they are old. Don't say shit like put a low km cluster in it, sounds very dodgey and you can get in trouble for it.

Yeah, could just be the pedal or maybe the fork that operates the clutch inside the bell housing Spray some lube

Yeah, you are right. My Power FC is untuned and the car is not modified.

Hi all, been a while since I have posted here. It's good to see the community is still strong. New GT-R looks good too. This is an update for the topic of R32 GT-R's running badly when they are cold. Most posts involved complaints of the car surging and a coughing sound coming from the engine bay, with decreased performance, then at a certain point everything would go normal like a switch had been thrown. After a bit of testing using my Power FC, I think I have come up with an answer. I noticed that when I installed the power fc that the problem went away. It makes me think that the problem lies in the standard ECU, sorry guys, bad news for some because there is probably nothing you can do about it. It has the very similar aspects that bad IGNITION TIMING has, as in, the ignition timing when it is cold is retard up to shit. This explains the lack of power and the coughing(sort of acting like antilag on rally cars, where the turbos is spooling really low in the rev range). What is happening is the ECU is retarding the timing when it is cold, then when it hits a pre-programmed temperature it changes it to normal. Power FC's are programmed differently and that's why it goes away, although if you played around with the warm up setting you could get it to do the same thing. I think it is coolant temperature correction.... If anyone thinks they can expand on this, feel free to add to this topic.

If the gtt calipers are designed for 30 mm thickness, then they will probably not be suitable for 40 mm gtr disks