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Everything posted by Slim Mat
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It would also be a good idea to check for injector pulse on that cylinder. Pull the plug off the injector and use a test light across the terminals, it should blink. Fuel pressure is most likely fine, since the engine is still running. Listen to hear if the that injector is clicking when opening, if it is, it is a good bet that fuel is getting in the cylinder. You are probably on the right track with the coil pack.
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What are Axis hiros?
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If it's anything like the GT-R's it is computer controlled Try http://www.jbskyline.net/R32/GTR/index2.php#attesa There is a bit of a write up there
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Agreed, Supra owns GT's If you want to do a much more closely related comparison use a GT-R Supra's and GT-R's are about the same in price range too. Old Supra(3L twin turbo) about the same as an R32, new Supra(3L Twin Sequential Turbos and VVT) about the same as an R33.
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How Many Boost Controllers Needed On Gtr
Slim Mat replied to Jpowys's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
The controller really needs to be connected to both turbo intakes. The other thing, I thought that wastegate actuators were connected to the turbo outlet. Such as this one, because the daiphram is operated by air pressure which opens the gate. -
How Many Boost Controllers Needed On Gtr
Slim Mat replied to Jpowys's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Agreed, one boost controller should do the trick. They only have one controller as standard. Hey Jpowys -
Help Me Stop This Power Drain Whilst Keeping My Stations
Slim Mat replied to avalanche's topic in Car Audio & Electrical
If you can, try working out which wire was plugged in to the standard radio unit, then just wire your cd player harness to that instead. -
Ahhh, I didn't think a Gts-t would even run boost that high........in stock setup. I though you said the boost was "cutting out"?
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You said that it was good for a little while then when you went and did some heavy driving it started smoking again? Perhaps it's just pressurised the crankcase again and forces some more oil vapour into your intake? Still, you need to figure out why it is blowing oil out, if that's the cause, or why there is smoke. White/blue smoke is usually oil in the combustion isn't it?
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An oil air separator, does pretty much what it sounds like, separates the oil from the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system. Normally you would put it in the line before it goes back into the inlet manifold. You will need a bit of extra piping to locate the can and then to route it back to the inlet(it cannot vent to atmosphere as that is illegal!). The can could be made with a tap to drain it or a feed hose directly back to the sump with a one-way check valve. The RB26's have a hose that comes out of the top, at the rear end of the right hand Cam cover, there is also a hose that connects the left cover. From there the hose leads back into the inlet manifold. You would want to put in a Catch Can there, before it goes back into the engine. http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=0338 Hope that helps
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R32 Gtr On Track (pics & Vids)
Slim Mat replied to Adam Kindness's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I am jealous much! I don't have a track anywhere near here to have a go on. Sounds like you were having a lot of fun chasing that WRX. Your car looks sick too, slicks are wicked. My 32GT-R is the same colour, I love it. ...sigh -
Do you have an oil-air separator?
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Meh, they aren't really the right turbo for what I was thinking of.
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Yeah cool, let us know how you get on.
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I am not sure how much is removed from the head when shaving, it's not much, but you could be close there. What you said was right, you should end up with an 8.7:1 CR. I would consider ringing a workshop that has experience in modified RB26's, see if they can tell you the measurements you need. Maybe Croydon Racing Developments can help, http://www.croydonracingdevelopments.com/contact_us.htm. http://press.jbskyline.net/JGTC/2001/Xanavi/ That is about the Xavani GT-R, from JGTC GT500, it has a 10:1 CR in it's RB26!
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OK, I will have a think about it, but don't wait for me. I was thinking a brake upgrade, this might be a cheaper way to go, won't be as good as getting 6 spots with larger slotted disks or something like that though.
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The Brembos should fit on an R32 GT-R yes? What are the specs on the later model GT-R brakes?
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Hey Evil Angel, Sounds interesting. I don't know all of the values right now, but the compression ratio is 8.5:1 in a standard RB26. I am really interested in this topic because I would like to do a similar thing to my GT-R: increase the compression ratio. I know that RB25's run 9.0:1 CR so you would think that a well build and tuned RB26 would be safe and reliable enough to do it. As for piston to valve clearance, really high lift cams (10+mm) may not fit with the high CR, especially since you are thinking of facing the head. HKS have stoker kits that run 8.7:1 CR and I would assume that they are suitable with HKS cams, which can have 10+mm of lift. Having a long duration cam may also interfere with the pistons, lol.
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So what are we down to? About $2500 for the lot?
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These turbos still for sale?
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Gtr Runs Like A Three-legged Billy Goat
Slim Mat replied to cash0's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Hey guys, Me 3, when cold it feels restricted. I have to put my foot down a bit more just to accelerate. Same thing with the switch effect, gets to middle of the gauge then runs normally. Qu: My 32 GT-R doesn't take very long to reach running temp, real quick, how long is it taking for you guys? I have done a bit of reading into this and I have found an article saying that "the standard R32 GT-R's ECU had a miss when the engine was cold". I think that it may have been miss-interpreted as a miss but is really something else, not a dead miss, more like a restriction. This would explain why having a Power FC would fix the problem, which I have also heard about. The article that I read made out like the factory ECU has a problem, which was known about. Another probable idea is that the ECU is running with the cold engine maps, rich mix. This would also create the same effect, however, like you said, the PFC runs fine on cold start. Perhaps it is programmed differently or as above it may suggest that the standard ECU has a fault. -
Hey, Your exhaust could be too big, but I doubt it. We have problems with V8's doing it, putting a large exhaust on a standard engine, but only having a rough idle really. Some engines will be effected right through the rev range, but not usual. It's more likely that you have a proper miss since it is happening over 4500rpm, under load right with boost? Could be plugs or leads.
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Thanks everyone, I'll look into getting a license and see what events I would like to participate in Slim
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Hi, Are there any Western Australia race events that a commoner such as myself can participate in? Where abouts can I go to have a run on a curcuit or such? What do I need to participate or race on the tracks? I hear that over east you have CAMS licences? Anything like that here? I'd really like to hear from some other WA members that have been or are going, meet some people would be good. Slim
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R32: How Long Before The Engine Is Hot
Slim Mat replied to kristafa's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
My R32 GT-R doesn't take very long to heat up at all. About 5 mins and the needle is on cold(idling), then drive 500m and the gauge reads middle and stays there. I was going to start a thread myself, wondering whether that was a bit fast. I don't think that you coolant temp is much to be worried about, sounds normal. I think you could be right though, about the cold running map. My GT-R has no power when it's cold, I suspect cold map. As soon as the gauge hits middle it changes and I can feel it surge ahead, doesn't need anywhere near as mush throttle just to move. The ECU tune is probably the best way to go, get the mech to see if he can check cold running settings, see if there is a value at which the maps change. I don't think it should stay on cold all the time, even at 70ish C.