sky_high_psi

stickerart.com.au

with a good tune, easily get in the 190 zone, with a better dump it will feel so much better to

if you are on your red p's then you cant drive anything turbo, v8, some 6's etc, there are some green p's who also cant drive turbo and 8s but for those as long as you dont do anything stupid infront of a cop you should be right

iv played with both the valve on the aac unit and the one on the ecu with no effect, iv checked for leaks and i cant find a thing, is it possible that it is due to the tune(when i had the car tuned the injectors had a leak and therfor more fuel was needed for start up and im assuming idle) could this cause the high idle iv got now considering these injectors are not leaking?

cant say im a fan, dont like the front bar and have never really been a fan of wide body, although im not complaining about the 2jz...until i saw auto...sad

the rear cannot be flared that much because there is not much gap between the rear door, bolt on flares would also be difficult because the lack of space also, on another note why 19s? 19s would raise the car and make it look like a monster truck, id go for some nice wide 17s with tuff offset, but each to there own

iv got a jl audio 10w7 sub woofer for sale, its in a custom timber box that is of excellent quality i bought this around 2 years ago, at the time it retailed for over $1200 not including the box! this is seriously one of the best quality subs you can get, i had this in my r32 and delivered insane bass that was real punchy, if you want the best quality then this is it used it for around 8 months and has just sat in my room since this sub is of amazing quality, google it for specs puts out amazing bass and is extremely sharp looking for around $800 located in vic, pm me pics up soon

i replaced all gaskets with gasket glue, the idle was fine befor i did the injector change and when i unplug the electrical connector on the aac valve it idles back on 900rpm which is what im after but once i plug it back in it goes back up to 2000 perhaps ill adjust the aac valve when the electrical connector is plugged in

afm looks the same as stock rb20 one, only differnece is the colour of the sticker and its just the coilpacks, no wires

if i reset the ecu wont i lose my tune?

hey guys i just replaced my injectors in my rb20, they were the same size as the previous ones, whilst doing this i cleaned the AAC once all back together i started it up and it idles at 2000rpm, i followed the d.i.y http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html here and attempted to change the idle, going by the tutorial when i have removed the electrical connector on the AAC unit my car idles at 900rpm, so i assumed that the computer needs to be adjusted as indicated by the tutorial, when i turn the little screw on the comp it does nothing any suggestions as to whats wrong? one possibility that i thought is that although the injectors are the same capacity as previous they are in much better condition and may flow better, could this be the cause of the high idle?

dont need these parts anymore, located in melb stock rb20 coilpacks: $80 working fine when i took them out, only replaced as i wanted something more reliable for the power im making stock rb20 injectors: $80 in fine working order r32 gtr injectors: $150 had them in my car for a couple of months, one was leaking(not sure why), only replaced cause i got a good deal on some replacement ones stock r32 front sway bar: $40 nothing wrong with it z32 afm: free seems to be faulty, drops voltage randomly, im just gonna throw it out otherwise stock r32 cat back: $150 nice and quite, clear defects pm me any questions etc

yeah deff gonna buy one for mine...when i get one first of course

got one, please delete

stock cat back with large diff back muffler with 4inch tip, silent as a mouse located melb looking for $200 make an offer its just taking up space pm me

as title says im after an r32 coupe boot lid, dont care if it has spoiler or what colour it is as long as it is in good condition located in melb need asap pm me please

haha yeah it was the brake fluid, i didnt even think of that, thanks for the replies

as above my hand brake light comes on whilst im driving(and no im not ripping the handbrake when this happens), it started ever since i installed hicas lock bar in my r32, i dont really care about the light as long as it doesnt mean something is about to break, should i be concerned?

thanks for all the replies so far; the radiator flush was done recently, has fresh coolant, brand new radiator cap, has been pressure tested, although im not to sure about the corrosion inhibitor which could lead to dead water pump the clutch fan works and it has a shroud although there is a hole in the top of the shroud big enough to fit all your fingers in at once and yes i have a front mount, its a gtr one and there is a good 15cm gap, the cooler is also mounted on a slight angle if that makes a difference the water pump was my next guess but it doesnt make sense if it works fine on most days, if it were stuffed then wouldnt it overheat all the time?

as mentioned my rb20 runs pretty hot and sometimes on a warm day (30+degrees) it will overheat in slow traffic. now im running a tripple core radiator, aircon has been removed including the stock thermo fan (aircon removal only done a week ago in an attempt to help improve cooling with not much success) im thinking about taking out the large single fan that sits behind the radiator and putting in two large thermo fans that run constantly, what are your opinions?

hey guys i have stock injectors, coilpacks and a front sway bar from my 32 gts-t, all in perfect working order when removed a week ago rb20 injectors $80 coilpacks $80 front sway bar $40 located se melb pm me open to offers

as per title, good condition, pm me

make an offer

buy my rims!!!

as stated r33/200sx rims, perfect condition, no tires, have been painted black (home job) paints peeled off in a few small areas $150 or nearest located SE Melb pick up prefered pm me