stenve

do you mean tapped both the ecu wires into one safc wire?

I have an rb25det series 1. finished hooking up the safc2 and all is working fine. i have one query about the knock sensors though. there are 2 knock sensor wires on the ecu one for cyl 1-3 and one for 5-6?? is this right? to my knowledge there is only 1 knock sensor wire on the safc, do i need to tap into both of these wires? or is there a second knock wire from the safc2? i have the knock sensor wire from safc tapped into one of the ecu knock sensors atm, but do not get any knock readings on the safc. i assumed there would be a small amount of knock or is it because ive hooked it up wrong. can someone please help me out with this and clear it up?? Thankyou

haha yeah i could pull them in and out and twist them around. dodgy wiring also. all fixed now though if anyone wants a pillar pod i have one for you

not sure about these two specific ones. but i had a similar holder in my r33 and it kinda fit, but the guy only held it in with one screw. they shitty speco gauges he put in it kinda just sat in there with no help, they were reasonably tight though. i found a generic cup holder with stand a friend had and modded it to fit the gauge i had and got rid of the anoying pillar mount if you can mount your gauges some other way i recommend you do that

is the fmic bar and plate or tube and fin? does it come with silicone joiners hose clamps etc? cheers

no problem i'll try and get one tonight after work for you

cool thanks for the tips didnt even think about using the plastic off cuts. they are in the bin now haha

did the same thing to my car on the weekend. took the front bar off, jigsawed out the number plate cross bar. used a saw blade and dremel to neaten the edging. i will be fibreglassing the cut bits to make it even and painting the lip and cooler black most likely to try and hide it a little while still having decent airflow. i also used a dremel to mount my number plate off to the side using the standard clips and bolts. i'll try and get a pic up if you are interested. but its not finished off yet.

update: drove the car home running from the stock afm signal tried to change the settings again and left it for the night, started it up in the morning and it had remembered the settings maybe put it down to dodgy 12v connection like you said. i'll try hooking the safc afm wires up tonight and see how it goes. can anyone shed shome light on the dec. air settings? im running a plumb back bov on an auto. do i need them?

i am fairly certain it is correct but the splicer i used to connect it may be the culprit and may be the reason why the safc starts sometimes and doesnt others at the moment i am bypassing the safc and leaving the afm signals intact and the safc starts and monitors the rest of the signals fine. i will check the power source tomorrow after work. am i correct in assuming it uses the 12v switched from the ecu? the wire at the far end (or 2nd from the end i cant remember) of the 20pin

yeah i fixed that must of been a loose connection or something safc is back on however i cant save settings, i turn off the dec. air settings shut down, then when i start again it loads straight back to the dec. air settings page and the dec. air settings that are wrong are back there i have tried changing other settings and they are not saving either is the memory in the safc screwed?

it is getting power from the ecu 12V i cant get the screen up again now. the getting the afm error again even with direct wiring tried both without the safc and with the safc and get the same error is it possible to damage afms? or another reason why it thinks there is no afm reading? high idle is also back because of this

i found the problem, the bullet connections i used for the afm signal werent making contact properly, i wired it directly and the screen fired up and it also fixed my high idle however i played with the dec. air settings which is now making it stall at idle. i tried to set it back to standard but the unit will not save my settings every time it will just revert to the changed settings i put in annoying! is there a way to reset? what does the initialise option do?

i just reset my ecu and checked the error code on the dash (the check engine light) will flash long once and quick twice what is this? it usually does 5 long and 5 quick so i just checked... maf sensor (airflow meter) is the error code. that is with the afm wires connected as standard. guess i'll check that connection and might do a diagnostic with the safc2 connected

all connections seem ok. but still only the buttons light up my tps shouldnt be disconnected. Are you referring to the plug in the engine bay or the ecu connection with the safc? i might try reset my ecu see if that effects the idle. unit is 2nd hand from this forum i'll msg the guy i got it from and see if he had similar troubles i guess.

hello just went through and installed my safc2 and sitc today. sitc seems to be working fine. however the safc display is not lighting up or showing any info... the adjusting knob lights up but nothing on the screen, so i cant set it for my car. i unplugged the afm readings and put them back to stock at the ecu and the car still runs. but i have a high idle (high as in 1500rpm high) anyone have any ideas why the display wont show and why i have such a high idle? going through and double checking all the connections right now. Thanks alot

i'll be very interested if you still have this next week and bumpo

looks the goods mate. put me down can finally get that ugly sub box outta the boot

is that the same in qld or different? had my auto p's for 2 years now and have always been too lazy to get manual because my car is auto haha would be sweet if its legal for me to drive manual now i dare saw i'd have to go do the test though

so if i was to run a safc2+sitc would getting an r33 ecu remap aswell be advantageous? they are a fair bit pricey though arent they? i would guess the costs of a remap would out weigh the benefits. i ask because i am about to install safc2+sitc and run with standard turbo+injectors+afm and aim for around 200rwkw then upgrade turbo and injectors for 250ish rwkw at this point ill probably need better management, perhaps an ecu remap. i already have other supporting mods etc

They have been nice enough to send me another after my first order didnt turn up after the first few weeks so they are definatly alright to deal with. the waits are a bit worrying though

bigger exhaust + pod filter = more air flow = messing with the ecu standards maps and in turn the car runs rich to run safe, hence the popping/burbling/etc only fix i know of is a ecu and tune eg: safc2 has deceleration air settings that can eliminate reduce this. thats my understanding of it anyway.

I ordered one of these through ebay a few weeks ago and still havent received it. have been emailing but havent really received a solution to not having my boost controller does anyone know which user is the guy who makes them on here? so i can shoot him a pm? Cheers

that is cool. im about to install my safc2 and sitc this could be very helpful. do you think they will do a custom harness for the safc2 + sitc combo? might email them and ask.

i have a similar problem too i have a switch on my dash that when it is turned on lights up, when i rev it a bit this light dims then comes back bright when i stop the revving. also as the fuel pump primes (bosch 040, direct wire) it doesnt sound quite right or as loud as it used to. sometimes it take the car quite a while to turn over while cranking it. its a bit anoying and worrying could this be the same problem? alternator playing up? guess i'll get someone to look at it