stenve

Sent away payment just then

pm sent pyro-ns

drivers side... unlucky. dont have 2 subs anyway

looks like they did a good job. however im not keen on that front bar/no side skirts/ricey rear bar look that youve gone for there any dyno sheets or anything? could imagine it might be a touch laggy?

yeah, what he said. Dont worry i looked at it for a minute and went "wtf?"

looks like ive joined the 1.1mm club just finished up and took it for a spin. put it the bcpr7es-11's checked all the gaps, they were at 1.1mm then didn't touch them took out the bcpr6es put in new plugs carefully hooked everything up and tada! no more miss at idle, car seems to pull a lot easier, seemed a bit more powerful (probs just cause i was breaking traction on the wet roads all the time haha) im running 12psi max. usually peaks about 11.5psi and no sign of a miss anywhere. so there ya go if you are running splitfires at max 12psi, in "theory" you should be able to run 1.1mm gaps how'd you go wacky dee?

been a while since i've thrown up an update so heres where it's at now: its all sanded back smooth and joined and aligned and in undercoat front bar got a redoing as well it cost him something like $400 for 2 litres of paint or something insane Its a 3 step system which involves a silver base coat then a diluted layer of green so it isnt so opaque and the silver shines through to create the gold pearl. then the clear coat. He's a bit scared to paint it now because he has to blend and somehow try to replicate the same green colour with his mixture. any tips?

From memory it appeared to miss instantly (well about 30seconds or so after i started it), but i cant be sure. car isn't tuned yet so its possible i fouled them. (could be a loose loom connection, badly seated coilpack etc, bit of dirt or something as well) I thought about gapping them back up to 1.0mm, but its odd that it didn't miss with the 7 heat range plugs at a 0.7mm gap :S i was under the impression the smaller the gap the worse the idle? just called the local repco and ordered in the BCPR7ES-11's for me. so tomorrow i'll throw them in at a 0.8mm gap i guess? what do you guys reckon? (running splitfires) dont really feel like taking them in and out if it doesn't work haha. is it better to run them at 1.1mm gap if i can?

hmmm, i just changed spark plugs on the 34 gtt went from ngk PFR7G gapped at 0.7mm to BCPR6ES gapped at .8mm after the swap i now have a missfire at idle. i used to run the 6 heat range in my 33gtst with 190rwkw no problem (both cars running splitfires) i assumed the 34 would be the same but apparently standard heat rang is 6 for them not 5 like the gtst. So im guessing going back up to a 7 heat range would fix this? What is the difference of the PFR7 plugs compared to the BKR7ES plugs?

haha, i went and bought another one of these off ebay Kim, could of just got it from you good luck mate

hmm tempting... What are you upgrading to man? whatever it is should be nice along with the water meth setup good luck with the sale mate, good price.

quote for truth

that blows my xboxlive account is expired and i have no intentions for paying for it anymore haha so no online for me

been playing this on 360 also great game but like what was said can be bloody frustrating. ive lost a few fights because i havent been able to get back up because i suck at that for some reason. and training sessions are ridiculous. i almost always use auto train haha

you have to sign up on that forum to view that thread probably best to throw a few pics up on here instead

nah sorry dude, been back at work last few days. day off tomorrow so i'll have a look then and let you know what i find.

i made my own plumb back adapter with a piece of vacuum cleaner metal tube haha worked a treat, then i sold the bov because its probably the most annoying thing you could put on a car

yeah mines still not idling perfect either, when in neutral its spot on 750rpm and stays there. put it in drive and it goes up and down a bit, esp with the ac on. gave it a cold start this morning and the revs sit at about 1200rpm for a minute or 2 then drop down to normal. might need a little fine tuning still, but it's alot better than before. Mawzy: i'll try have a look sometime today. but its about a 11ty billion degrees outside. see how i go

yeah when i removed my wing there were little round white plugs in between the 2 bolts on each end. absolute bitch to get out. got a long socket and bashed it over the end of them from underneath. them wiggled/pulled it up. was also alot of rubbery gluey stuff. heatgun made short work of that though.

you guys drive a hard bargain haha im still pretty sold on fixing up the old boot to keep things under the radar that being said if carbon panels werent so expensive and were not a giant cop/defect magnet i'd probably go for it. but the $800 for a carbon bonnet pretty much pays for my nistune install and tune

it idled fine with the aac disconnected. it just didnt compensate for things like ac when sitting idle at lights etc. I only tried starting the car once with it plugged in and i cant remember if it was a cold start or what... but the revs were all over the place. car is cooling down now. i'll go start it from cold again later and see what happens now its all clean. it seemed perfect when i checked it just before though

thanks mate, i tried what you asked (disconnected grey plug) starts up first go and idles fine. Edit: ok scrap that. took aac valve off cleaned it out, put it back on and connected it. it started idling at 2000rpm and i went "oh no" then i screwed in the idle screw just a little and it dropped all the way down to 1100rpm fine tuned it down to 800rpm and all is good (air con works fine etc) problem solvered

hey guys, upon inspecting the engine bay the other day i found this: (sorry for the shitty phone cam pic) the white/grey plug is disconnected and appears to lead to the aac valve Is this done for a reason? i connected it to see what happens and the idle goes all over the shop should also note that at the moment when the a/c is on idle is a bit wonky (ie: when coming to a stop revs drop down to 500/600ish rpm and car almost dies, will also do this randomly when stopped at lights etc) not sure if thats related at all? car is automatic r34 gtt, 98 model any ideas? Cheers

yeah seems to be the way to go. defs never going to be a track car. i think i'll stick with my initial plan of keeping it standard looking (aside from the pretty wheels) and aim to hit the 260ish rwkw mark any idea how much those boots usually cost to get filled and painted?

hence why im asking if i should go carbon bonnet or fix up standard boot and put it back on. also why i mentioned the wheels are being done in black shortly