stenve

Yeah i saw that white r34 that had the panda style happening (member from here, forget the name though) Wasn't completly sold on it, i'd have to work into it i guess. i'll probably change my mind 20 times before i decide on something. but i'll probably end up fixing the old boot. i just dont trust having carbon fibre everywhere because of police/insurance issues. i do like the look of it though

just got a carbon boot the other day as seen here: Car is a daily so got this boot to open my options a little... Basically i could 1. paint carbon boot white to match car and leave it. 2. buy carbon bonnet to match boot and leave it 3. fill holes and paint original bonnet, then sell on the carbon one kinda want to keep the car legal and below the radar hence im leaning towards option 3 as it keeps everything legit and understated. but i quite like the look of the carbon/white two tone thing. the gt-c's will be getting black inserts in the next few weeks so i think it would all go well together. ive emailed blits regarding an adr approved carbon look bonnet made from fibreglass and they say they can do it and its legal for street use... who knows how well thatd hold up though. Opinions? thoughts?

Some pics of the new carbon boot I'm so torn right now as to what to do.... options are: 1. paint carbon boot white to match car and leave it 2. fill and paint original boot so there are no holes and sell on carbon boot 3. buy a carbon bonnet to match the boot gutter rash on wheels to be fixed soon and the inserts will be painted black so i think the whole carbon boot/bonnet with black wheels would look swell. But it kinda defeats the purpose of the car. want to keep it simple and clean looking and nice and legal. so i think option number 2 is looking the best so far. What do you guys think?

Hello, I have an exhaust for an r34 coupe Its 3" mild steel from cat back Merges into 3.5" after diff and onto a 5" kakimoto cannon with a 4.5" tip Has some marks/scratches on the underside of the cannon from previous owner. It came on my r34 when i bought it and have decided i want a quieter ride being a daily car so have gone a full CES exhaust system after $250 Pickup only from Southside Brisbane Pm me on here or contact Steve: 0422850698 Cheers

Hello, I have an exhaust for an r34 coupe Its 3" mild steel from cat back Merges into 3.5" after diff and onto a 5" kakimoto cannon with a 4.5" tip Has some marks/scratches on the underside of the cannon from previous owner. It came on my r34 when i bought it and have decided i want a quieter ride being a daily car so have gone a full CES exhaust system after $250 Pickup only from Southside Brisbane Pm me on here or contact Steve: 0422850698 Cheers

if i was you i would be doing up personal cover letters for each and every electrical business you can think of. Emailing them, taking it in to them, calling them up trying all trades qld, other agencies trying energex (i think their applications have just closed) thiess have an app program also i think Talking to mates Do anything and everything you can Its one of the most popular trades therefore one of the hardest to get into. I tried for a year but couldnt find anywhere because i was mature age. no one wanted to pay me. I even have a father that works for ergon and a few contacts in the industry, a restricted electrical license and a uni degree (unrelated) and couldnt get in. (this was 2 years ago now) Not saying its impossible, just really get stuck into it if you are keen on it. you need to stand out above the rest. good luck with it

Plus one for CES in meadowbrook. Just had a catback made up by them for the r34 gtt couldnt be happier. Not the cheapest by any means, but they'll do it right and do it right the first time. Trevor is a good guy to talk to also. will give you alot of options not just the one that is best for him.

PM Sent

so i just went for a bit of a drive... the problem im having only occurs on 2nd-->3rd gear changes in tiptronic mode its not an instant bang into gear like 1st to 2nd it changes, revs drop back, kinda bogs down, then jumps up 100rpm then all is back to normal again. :S It doesnt sound smooth at all im confused. Will be talking to the guys that did the kit. Is this a normal thing that happens with tiptronics?

i raised this question with Chris via pm He said there were no ADR approval stickers anywhere on the boot - so is unsure on that But he never had any trouble from the police whilst on the car fibreglass and carbon etc etc seem to be a huge gray area in regards to the law. can never seem to find a definitive answer. everyone has different views.

What do you guys do to the box to make it handle that kind of power? I've already done the shift kit. do you do any clutch pack etc strengthening? or just torque converter upgrade? I've still gotta figure out how to get out to you guys to get nistune done... damn friends selling their cars and shit

" I've been using mig with 0.8 gasless wire turned down low and weld very carefully, 0.6 wire with gas in the mig is ideal though " Thats his answer

yeah i thought as much, but when we did it didnt have anything on hand to do it and it was 10pm at night. might do it sometime soon. doesnt seem to affect anything much though. could it be the cause of rough idle when the ac is on?

no idea man haha, he seems to be doing alright though. I'll ask him about it when i see him next though. im pretty sure he's using it with gas but im not 100% he's also looking for a rear windscreen, so if anyones got one let me know! cheers

awesome work mate did this on my r34 gtt a few weeks back with a trust front mount kit i took off my old r33 gtst. had the same issue with the washer bottle, but now this weekend i can fit it up. didnt even think of rotating it.. just went doesnt fit, oh well and threw it to the side haha also from memory i think there was a vacuum line that i couldnt connect with the new pipework as there was no nipple to attach it to. I'm pretty sure this was connected to the a/c pumpand i just blocked it off. I havent had any real problems with it. when i run the a/c the revs drop down a little to 500rpm or so (car is auto) feels like its gonna stall but always corrects itself. I dunno if thats a fault of not connecting that line up or its just normal with the ac... any ideas?

also keen to know wether the boot lid has wing or if its all be removed welded up or anything?

howdy partner Not being quick to assume, just think these types of questions are pointless not enough information, too many variables etc etc I'm sure the OP has probably driven with and/or been in his car and his mates car at some stage. im no scientist but i'll have a stab and say that will give them an idea on what to expect.

why dont you just go to the strip and try it instead of wasting space on here?

yeah it goes alright new pic with rear bumper, boot, and fuel cap on and mocked up. not sitting perfect yet but almost there

difference is in the piping. over the radiator style is as the name suggests, has a pipe that runs over the radiator/clutch fan down through the guard and onto the cooler. Return flow has one side of the intercooler piping looping back under the cooler and uses the stock piping route. over the radiator means you have to cut a whole on the driver side to run the pipe, and frees up a hole under the airbox to run a cold air feed to if you go pod filter. return flow will look stock and allow you to keep the standard airbox and snorkel. with no provision to run a cold air feed to your pod if thats the way you go. also try the search function mate, this has probably been covered lots of times

the shift kit is the actual valvebody. if you take off the pan the valvebody is directly under that. to get the valvebody off there is i think 7 10mm bolts that hold it into the base of the trans. however there is about another eleventybillion bolts around the place aswell. figuring out which ones will drop down the valvebody is quite confusing. there will also be a few different springs drop out around the place. and there is a set of solenoids. all this can be exhanged between boxes if they are in good shape. you may also need to slightly lever out the valvebody with a screwdriver to get it to drop. its sealed on there pretty well. i'd recommend you just take it to the shop and get them to remove and clean it. then swap it into the new car. I ended up doing it this way. ended up costing me $400, but that was with a gearbox change also.

depends what the cooler kit is? return flow or over the radiator style?

hey there just a quick question for you guys using shiftkits in your auto 34's. ive just had one put in and it doesnt quite feel right. shifting down gears is fine. but when i shift up the revs kinda fluctuate. as in it drops revs, changes gear but instead of raising revs smoothly it jumps up a couple of hundred rpm quickly with a bit of a jerk then continues on nice and smooth. This is causing my boost to spike between changes. in my r33 i had a shiftkit from MV and a turbotech boost control, and changes were like bam no silly business etc. The r34 is running a greddy profec b spec ii and a shiftkit from westside autos here in brisbane. (other usual mods also, pod, fmic, walbro pump etc) Im about to go for a drive to narrow down when this happens as its on and off at different throttle positions/tiptronic mode or auto mode, tcs on/off etc Just looking for experiences or ideas on this? aswell as the boost spike between gears thing Cheers Steve

few quick snaps of the new 34 after a wash today

Thanks for the tips guys, i'll def pass them onto my mate. Yeah its coming along nicely. I'll throw up some more pics once he's made some more progress