HIRISK

OYEAHA, Are your wheels 18" or 19" And yes, the Do Luck wing mounts are awesome.

2002 R34 GT-R Power FC D-Jetro Nismo in-tank fuel pump Sard FPR HKS fuel rail Unknown injectors Stock 2.6lt bottom end Stock head + Tomei Tye B cams Stock cam gears Tomei Expreme exhaust manifolds HKS 2530 Turbos HKS Actuators Trust Intercooler Nismo cast dump pipes Midori Seibi 90mm titanium front pipes 3" high flow cat HKS Super Turbo cat back exhaust 19/20psi 1st Dyno Graph: Old Tune: 349.6 rwkw (4th gear) New Tune: 353.4 rwkw (4th gear) 2nd Dyno Graph: New Tune: 359.6 rwkw (5th gear) Apparently the dyno was hitting some limiter in 4th gear? Apparently that is why you see the sudden drop at the end of the power curve? But the 5th gear run allows the run to rev right out? Can someone explain this to me?

Thanks. I am not sure what the issue was. I think a combination of bad driving and maybe clutch? But he mph was OK, so once I get my driving sorted and maybe a new clutch I should run maybe a high 11.

Just got back from Calder Park. Not sure how I feel? But one thing is for sure, my driving skills are clearly getting worse as I get old. Anyway, the three runs I did were... RUN 1: 13.591 @ 119.89mph (2.712 60') RUN 2: 12.965 @ 114.14mph (2.019 60') RUN 3: 13.016 @ 116.17mph (2.265 60') I think the expectations my old R32 GTR set were too high. In my R32 GTR I ran a 11.573 @ 117.89 mph (1.712 60') with at least 60rwkw less than in my 34 GT-R. But the 32 was running stock suspension (good squat) and stock 16" wheels with chunky Advan A048R's on the rear - must have made a big difference. Oh well, it is what it is.

Image fixed...

Hi All, I have a few bits and pieces that have come off a BNR34 GT-R but will also suit R32 and R33 GT-R's. The items are... Rear Turbo alloy intake pipe $30 Front turbo rubber intake (joins AFM to turbo) $20 BOV return pipe (metal pipe that splits BOV return into the intakes) $30 Intercooler pipe (metal) that joins top and bottom half of cooler piping $40 Top section of intercooler pipe that run from the above mentioned hard pipe to the twin turbo pipe $40 Or you can have the lot for $125 Located in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne Cab post at buyers expense Contact via PM or on 0402 083 611

Hi All, I have 2 K&N Xstream pod filters that were removed from my BNR34 GT-R. They have a 3" inlet size. They are in overall good condition, just need a wash and oil. $70 each or $120 for the pair Retail is $130 each: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=RX-3900-1 Located in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne Cab post at buyers expense Contact via PM or on 0402 083 611

Hi All, I have an original Nissan blow off valve re-circulation return pipe that is to suit both an R32 and R33 GT-R. It is in great condition and would be perfect for anyone wanting to revert back to a recirculated blow off set up on their 32/33 GT-R. $100 Located in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne Cab post at buyers expense Contact via PM or on 0402 083 611

Thanks Piggaz, Good question. At the end of the day I know there is more that can be done with the current set up, so I will continue to develop it until such point that no more can be done. When I hit that stage I will then commit to a full rebuild with a forged bottom end. Next round of mods for the current set up will be... 1) Remove 3" high flow cat and replace with Venom 3.5" in/out 5" body high flow cat 2) Remove Tomei cams and install standard cams 3) Install cam gears 4) Re-tune to suit above changes I will probably do all this in November / December.

And here is another photo of the new engine bay set up...

Here is a photo of the factory BOV's installed. I am running them as vent to atmosphere for the moment, just until I can source the right BOV return pipe. Installed a filter just to keep the dust and water out.

Brought the car home from Racepace today. I am loving the new look...

Update. I picked up the car from Racepace today. Since the first tune on this car back in October 2012 I have changed the exhaust system and now all the standard intake items have been re-installed. So I asked them to do a re-tune and make it a bit more responsive (existing tune was a track safe tune so was a bit rich). So we upped the boost from a previous 18/19psi to 19/20psi this time around and also played around with ignition timing etc. The end result is AWESOME, the way the car drives now is SO much better. It is so much more responsive and so much easier to drive, less labored and more responsive. The peak power numbers do it no justice, it is all in the torque and power delivery, so much better now. Old Track Tune: 349.6 rwkw (4th gear) New Street Tune: 353.4 rwkw (4th gear) New Street Tune: 359.6 rwkw (5th gear) Apparently the dyno was hitting some limiter in 4th gear? Apparently that is why you see the sudden drop at the end of the power curve? But the 5th gear run allows the run to rev right out? Can someone explain this to me? Here are the old and new 4th gear runs overlayed with POWER and TORQUE: Here is the new 5th gear run with POWER and BOOST:

Thanks guys. There are still a few more little things I want to do to finish it off.... - Swap Billion radiator hose for a factory hose as I think the blue sticks out to much now - Get a better strut brace, maybe Kansai Service - Re-polish the top of the Nismo radiator (ut has some stains on it) - Get a Nismo intake snorkel - Get a new Nismo radiator cap (the colour is faded) - Maybe swap HKS oil cap for a Nismo oil cap ...then I think it will be done.

Hi Paul, Yes, Racepace do my tuning. I was thinking that, as a starting point, just add cam gears to the existing set up and see what it does. Then if it still no good I can put the stock cams in.

Sorry to hijack your thread, but I am in a very similar situation. Has anyone had any experience or know of anyone who has used adjustable cam gears on aftermarket cams? I am also looking at a cam change on my car but am in two minds about whether to have a shot at dialing in the existing Tomei cams (Type B) or just ditching them and going back to stock and dial those in instead. The challenge I have is that the HKS2530's I am running are a bit laggy and, short of going -5's, I need to do something to bring my torque back down the rev range and bring boost on a little earlier. I can see three options for me... 1) Keep Type B cams but install adjustable cam gears 2) Go Type R cams and adjustable cam gears 3) Go stock cams and adjustable cam gears Thoughts? I will post up a dyno graph of my existing set up tomorrow.

Here are a few of mine with standard intake back on.

BEFORE: AFTER:

OK, So all the factory parts are now installed and the car has had a run up on the dyno. All went really well except for the long black plastic BOV return pipe, which was for a 32/33 so did not fit my 34. No big issue for me, I am just venting the factory BOV's to atmosphere until I find a 34 return pipe. Venting to atmosphere for me is no issue as I am not running AFM's - I am running the PFC D-Jetro. But the gutted AFM's look good in place, I even hooked up the wiring and plugs so they look functional. On the dyno we played around a little with ignition timing and boost and managed to give it a fairly decent kick in both power and torque through the mid range, which is where it needs it. Top end it made an extra 10kw at the rear wheels (now 360rwkw), but it is the mid range that will make the biggest difference. I will get some dyno graphs uploaded on Monday to show the before and after power and torque curves. The good thing is that since my last dyno run I have changed exhaust systems (Tomei to HKS) and also put all thew factory intake back on and lost no power. So thumbs up to the HKS exhaust, it is much quieter and was no compromise on power. Here are a few engine bay photos...

Thanks Four - Twelve, I think my age has something to do with it too I used to love all the bling, blow off valve noise etc, but these days it is kinda been there done that, I am more happy trying to piece together something refined and subtle. I have been talking to the team at Racepace and they have told me that all the stock items I am putting back on will be fine for even 400kw at the wheels. I am going to keep the D-Jetro for the moment, so I have actually removed all the internals from the AFM's - they are just there to connect the factory airbox to the intake pipes....was cheaper than fabricating blanks or buying the HKS ones at $150+ a piece. I am currently running a really safe (read - rich!!) track tune, so I am looking forward to going in a different direction. I am going to run a second bleed valve and get the guys at Racepace to run a much more edgy street tune, around 21psi, for my daily needs, probably around 390 rwkw. But then I will have a second bleed valve set up that I can switch over to for track days dropping boost down to around 18psi. The drama I had last time on the dyno was boost creep was big, These HKS 2530's just keep making more and more boost, it is weird (dyno graphs below). To get them where they are now (18psi) we had to have them initially coming on at around 15psi. Anyway, next week will be interesting, we will see where it all goes.

Well, Most of my parts came in from Japan on Friday, I am just waiting on the airbox now, which is due Monday. I gave all the parts a wash today and they are ready for instal. It is surprising how much you need to convert back to factory induction...

Good question Piggaz, I have ummed and ahhhed about this for a few weeks now. There is certainly a lot of data online that supports the modification, so yes, I probably should. There is a lot of good conversation in this thread... http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/84482-testing-modified-twin-turbo-pipe.html Also, these videos are really interesting as thet show, via use of coloured smoke, the change the modification made... STOCK: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAB7hkLDsiQ MODIFIED: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=482_5BXoyIs

As promised, here are the videos. Watch in 1080p so you get the best quality sound playback. Slow drive off: Full throttle 2nd through 3rd:

The exhaust is awesome, It is really nice to drive as a daily, in traffic and on freeways with no drone. However, when you open it up and give it hell it really roars and sounds very tuff. Don't get me wrong, it is no where near as load as the Tomei, that thing was ridiculous loud!! Let me see if I can get a video.