HIRISK

Cheers. Price a little negotiable.

Hi All, I am looking at helping a local supplier develop his product, so will be removing the current set up in my car. Tein Monoflex Coilovers for BNR34 GTR - $1,600ono (cost $2,200 delivered) If you are interested, please let me know. Can ship Australia wide, but will need to get a quote (probably around $40 to $50 to most states). Cheers, Shaun 0402 083 611

Hi Guys, I have a Superior Auto Creative carbon rear view mirror cover for sale on Ebay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290873975539?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_978wt_1397 Bidding on Ebay starts at $120 and Buy it now is $180 I am happy to sell it to an SAU member for $150. Postage will be $10 Australia wide. Cheers, Shaun 0402 083 611

Damn, I would love to have come down, would have been a great chance to have a chat and get to know more of the SAU Vic crew. But I am on holidays overseas that week. Bummer. I ran my GTR on their dyno a few months back at a JDMST Dyno day, and correct, it is not the most generous dyno It may make a few people sad

Would be interesting to know the spec on the BC's? Spring rates etc? I am running Tein Monoflex and they are definitely to stiff for street / hard street (i.e. hill runs). When coming in hot to sharp bends it is challenging unless the surface is smooth as the car bounces around too much, causing ABS to come on and understeer to occur.

Great work. I run the Nismo dump pipes (as seen above) and the 90mm Midori Ti front pipes and love the set up. The combo you have gone for with the Mines dumps and 80mm Midori Ti front pipes will be really nice.

Thanks Ant, That is really good data, thank you. I like the way they have just cut a neat rectangle out of the inner guard and covered with mesh. I think I will do the same. I have already removed the rear half of my Nismo ducting (behind the cooler) so this will just help draw the air through the cooler and suck it out into the front wheel cavity. I actually took the car for its firast really hard run last night. I did over 150km of hills with a variety of 3rd and 4th gear corners, then into some 4th of 5th gear straights and then onto some really tight 2nd and 3rd gear corners. After 150km of virtually non stop hard running (only had 2 quick 5 minutes breaks) it did not break a sweat. The hottest oil temps I saw were around 87 degrees and the hottest water temp I saw was around 79 degrees. I am sure this will be different on the track though.

I have thought about what I want to do with the front bar and my thoughts, at this stage, are... Nismo Z-Tune: Love it but to be honest it has be done so many times now, I think I want to stick with a road less traveled Nismo S-Tune: This is going to be my preference IF I end up changing the front bar, it will suit my stock guards and bonnet more than the Z-Tune bar Nismo oil cooler vents: I don't mind this option as it retains the stock bar and just adds a more efficient path for air flow Leave it stock: This is actually my preferred option. The way I see it is that if the Mines R34 can use a stock front bar with no Nismo oil cooler vents on the front or side of the factory bar then it must be OK. I have to assume that the Nismo oil cooler duct is enough to ensure air is caught and directed through the oil cooler and then just disperses out into the inner guard area. All though it does look like they have removed the inner guard, so maybe that is why. Remember I have actually removed the REAR half of the Nismo ducting you can see in the photos of mine above, so once the air is forced through the cooler by the front duct it should just disperse.

Thanks to AL Captures for this great shot...

Credit to https://www.facebook.com/anphotog Thanks for the great shots!!

Sure did.

Also an update to the stereo specs on page 1. STEREO - Pioneer AVH-P6850DVD Double Din Head Unit - Alpine PDX-4.100 Mono Block Amplifier (was listed as Alpine PDX1000) - MB Quart RVF216 Reference Splits in front (was listed as Q-Line) - No rear speakers - have removed them (was listed as MB Quart Reference Splits in rear) - JL Audio CP112-W0v3 12" BassWedge Slot Ported 4 Ω Sub Woofer The sub has come up really well and sounds great. I have just bridged channels 3 and 4 to power the sub and left channels 1 and 2 to power the front splits. I just need to put a floor in the boot now as the standard ply wood over the spare wheel is not really suitable. Once I put a new sub floor in I can then secure the Sub to the floor so it will not move around.

Just updating the exhaust details from the spec list on page 1. EXHAUST - Nismo Z-Tune Cast Dump Pipes - Midori Seibi 90mm Titanium Front Pipes (was listed as Power House Amuse) - 3" high flow metal cat with modified inlet expanded to 90mm (was listed as Tomei De Cat Pipe) - HKS Super Turbo Cat Back (was listed as Tomei Expreme Ti Cat Back) I was informed by the previous owner that the front pipes were from Power House Amuse, but after lots of research I can't find anywhere that Amuse have ever released them. I then looked at the Midori Seibi Titanium front pipes and can see that this is actually the one I have. http://www.nengun.co...-gtr-front-pipe So the specs are now updated and current.

Hi Mate, That is a one piece carbon mold that you clip / double side tape to the car. Mine is a "Superior Auto Creative" version from RHD Japan, but I think that one is discontinued? You can get them on Ebay.

Cheers, The underground car park is the new one at K-Mart Burwood. Uuughhhh, it is the bane of my existence!! The stupid thing is it must be running a street pad in the front and race compound in the rear as I can only do 20 to 30kmn before the rears start going black, by the time I have done 70 to 80km the front and rear are all dirty, but the rear by a lot more. I am going to look at getting the Endless SSM pads for on the street and see how they go, but the rears at the moment are killing me!

Thanks for all the positive comments. Here are a few more photos.

And a few more from this morning...

Here are a few from last night...

It made sense as I could use one of the 6.5" woofers from the rear to replace the damaged front woofer. This saved me the money of buying a new set of splits. With the Alpine PDX-4.100 amp and MB Quart RVF216 splis the sound I get with just the fronts is great!! It is really clear and concise and I actually prefer it without the rear "fill" the rear speakers were giving. I am picking up a JL Audio 12" Slot Ported Sub and box tonight which will be powered of the 2 channels I now have free. I will bridge them and this will put 200+ RMS into the sub, which should sound nice. I will get more photos as I go through the install.

Nothing major to report, just working on the audio system. The car is running MB Quart Reference RVF 216 Splits front and rear. The front passenger woofer crapped itself so instead of buying a new set of splits for the front I have saved my money and removed the rear speakers all together. This has allowed me to use one of the rear woofers to replace the damaged front one. With the money saved I will now by a 12" sub woofer and install this in the boot and power it from the bridged 2nd channel on the amp. Should sound OK once all done.

The plumb back section on the BOV is, from what I understand, how HKS released a race version of the SSQ BOV. The plumb back pipe is molded into the body of the BOV, not a bolt on, saw your eyes did not deceive you, there is a plumb back section on the BOV, just not being utilised. Yes, pretty much a full time streeter. You are probably right, when it comes time to consider the forged bottom end I probably won't be able to justify the price tag, but damn, 400+ rwkw is so inviting.

Thanks. Basically I am trying to identify all my audio components in the car (new car - so I did not fit / install any of it). This is in the rear, I just pulled the rear boot trim down to look behind and saw these, but the weird thing is the speakers in the rear parcel shelf are MB Quart RMF160 which are, from what I understand, part of the MB Quart RVF 216 Component Speaker set up. This is why I am confused as the cross overs do not appear to be MB Quart which makes me worry the rear set up is bastardised from different bits and pieces. Looks like I should pull the trim right off and try and see what tweeters are up in there.

Thanks, certainly a credit to the previous owner. No, the current HKS blow off valve is not plumbed back into the intake Future plans, hmmm, that is an interesting one. Here is what I am thinking... - Built / Forged bottom end so I can up the boost and rev harder, this will really bring the current set up to life, 400+rwkw no probs. - Updates to the audio, including new splits up from (probably Alpine Type R), a new Amp and Subs in the boost (again, probably Alpine) and new double din head unit (again, probably Alpine) - New set of brake pads (Endless SSM) for the street as the current pads are way to dusty as daily driven for my white wheels - Nismo oil cooler duct (as you have mentioned) or Nismo S-Tune front bar (Z-Tune is done to death these days) - New front strut brace (bit more bling in the bay) - Maybe some softer springs for the Tein Monoflex coil overs, or an entirely new set of coil overs (something more streetable) Honestly, there is probably not much more I can do?! The previous owner did such a thorough job!!