4drftn

i had my park lights stuck on in my r33... stuffed around with it for a couple of hours (in the dark with a crappy torch)... didnt realize that the fog light switch was on (must have been bumped or something) which triggered my park lights to stay on (also just before that i was stuffing around putting my headlights back in)... now reason i didnt think of that is because i dont have fog lights... so they must be wired so if i did have fog lights it will also turn my park lights on too... probably not the info your looking for... hope this helps... if not good luck with it

you might wanna check a couple of them then. R33 Fusebox translation Dashboard Fusebox Left Column, top to bottom: Right Column, top to bottom 10A - Rear Wiper 10A - Shift lock 10A - Anti-stop 10A - A/T control 10A - Starter Indicator 10A - Air conditioner 10A - Room lamp 10A - Engine control 10A - Stop lamp 10A - Air bag 10A - Electrics 20A - Blower motor 10A - Engine Control 20A - Blower motor 10A - Hazard lamp 10A - Audio 15A - Fog lamp 15A - Cigarette lighter 10A - Turn signal 20A - Front wiper 10A - Meters 10A - Mirror de-fogger 10A - Electrics 20A - Rear de-fogger Note that the engine bay fuse / relay box has a fuse key printed on the inside of the cover in english.

WHO HAS SEEN THE MOVIE - BAD BOY BUBBY AY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HAHA :laughing-smiley-014:

good question... i have a set of volk racing rims 17x8 or 8.5 / 17x9 rare wheel only ever seen them on my car

its quite simple actually... i did mine when i first got my car. open compartment in center console and should have i think its 2 screws in there that need to come out. next if you have existing boots take your gear knob off. take out your ashtray and you will have to remove the 2 screws there. dash surround should come out, sliding existing boot over stick. you can now remove the center console and you will find when you turn it over there are round button clips. remove clips from existing boot and put new boot in (hopefully new boot came with the holes) as for the handbrake boot, i dunno how yours is but it has wire sewn in a rectangle shape that fits up from bottom and you push the wire over a tab... spin it back round and slide gear boot back over stick carefully. if like mine your handbrake boot will have 2 buttons to clip together at the end. put your consol screws in and put dash boot surround back in with screws and insert your ashtray (ashtray just slides in) put your gear knob back on and thats it! hopefully this helps, it might be different as i bought mine of ebay. any questions just ask... thanks

so your saying it keeps climbing but your needle on the cluster just goes spastic??? if it doesnt cut out or jerk there is no major problem... i dunno if its because its auto or not , mine being a manual (and r33) it doesnt do anything but keep going round (but also because i have aftermarket ECU) might see if i can get back round to 0km/h how fast would that be???

someone should do suicide doors... gangsta gangsta... would be different yeah

good idea, happens to the forklift at work, terminals dont touch properly, gotta give them a wiggle, and when its been used they must slightly move a bit... you would think we would have got a shifter out nad fixed it ay... also you might wanna get a steel brushed and give them a little rub with that before putting the terminals on properly.

/\ | | |

my r33 keeps on going roung... last time i tried i had hicas light on and the needle went past there before i backed it off... could have kept pushing... you can get a cut out for it, or an aftermarket ECU like i have (microtech LT-8), will cutout any motor restrictions anyway. cheers

all that means is that you havent built up enough revs when selecting the next gear... hence the thud. if your skipping from 1st to 3rd make sure you have the revs and speed built up otherwise it will always thud... 1st to 3rd with revs under 3rpm will thud. does it happen from 1st to 2nd? often when i see some ppl tring to do a cook through the gears they change gears to early... thuding in between shifts wouldnt be to good on your running gear... clutch too!

hey rad33 where do you do the pics??? is there a website for that... i seen a few people with em... looks cool

mainly got them because my headlights were grubby and untidy so i thought they would also help mask the uglyness... but i have since bought new headlights...

the ones i bought have double sided tape, nowing now i most likley wont use them... unless there is a better more permanent way... not glue though

:laughing-smiley-014:

best thing to do is if you can post up your dyno sheet as many people miss read the sheets if they are not familiar with them, before i knew how to read them, i thought my car was only 96kw at wheels hehe but had read it wrong and it was 221kw at wheels... :laughing-smiley-014:

my mate just bought a skyline and when he took it for a test drive (at car yard) it was over boosted so he thought it was powerful but the next day when he paid the money he got it home and the apexi comp (cant remember what type) said it was running -3 bar???, it ran really really crappy... was just a matter of adjusting boost control. he put it up to 1 bar which equaled about 6ish psi... but if you dont have much of an idea as he didnt have the slightest, best seek advice from a person thats experienced in the field... the wrong option could do damage...

an engineer will put the wheels on a metal lathe and machine down the lip until its flush... they do a good job too... as far as scratches on the rest of the mag if they are alloy a bodyworks can fix them by filling scratches and large gowges with a good body filler and hit it with 2k paint... 2k being quite hard... will bring it up nice and new looking... as long as they match the colour up well to suit the other wheels. cost for engineer can be very exspensive.... but if you ring around you might get someone to machine lip for around $70 - $100 a rim (depending on size too, anything over 17inch will be to big for many lathes bodyworks will fix scratches and gowges for around the same price... depending on how damage your rims are you might need to do both... are they bent? if impact has happened it may be out of round...

high guys, i have 2 1/2inch intercooler piping on my rb25 and was wondering would it be alot better to up it to 3inch? As i have been told bigger piping will also reduce turbo lag... Also my piping runs different to alot of peoples intercooler piping, as mine runs under my FMIC and up into piping to turbo... i have attached a quick (um very quick) diagram of how it runs... will this be worse, cause im thinking the angles in the piping are bigger angles and may affect airflow... just your thoughts on this situation will be a great help... cheers

running a higher octane fuel in my 33 rb25t made my car run a whole lot better...

hi mate i did mine last week... you wont loose much fuel only whats in your lines... just undo your fuel cap to relieve pressure, you might need to by some hosing too, i found my lines were stuck to my filter and brittle... 5/16 or 7.9mm hose will replace old hose, which i bought at super cheap, 2 clamps were about $3 as the stock clamps arnt very good. any questions please ask... if you want coloured hose grommet, will cost about $13 normal about $7 a meter also buying a filter (they will tell you there a 3 compatible matches) your best to get the z200 (repco part number) fuel filter the ones they use in commodores because they are cheaper than buying the skyline ones that you pay more because they have an angle....

my girlfriend bought a full undercar kit for her lancer and never used them... dont suppose you want pink ones...

iv serviced cars many times... the way i see it and do it is, get it warm (as warm oil will flow through internals easier than cold oil), you get her up?, undo plug and filter, let drain over a period of time (i leave it for over an hour, but no need to do it as long), make sure area is clean of dirt ect. by using a rag, put new filter on 2/3 turn (run a bead of clear oil over rubber gasket helps seal under heat), clean around plug hole on sump, put plug back in, lower the car down, put new oil in (i put in same amount that comes out), let sit for a bit, check dip stick and slowly top up bit by bit waiting about 1 min in between check until level is close to high level on dipstick, take for a short drive to get oil a bit warm then recheck because new oil will be pushed around all internals, turbo ect. recheck and do slight top up done... and done right * be sure to check your filter after car has been driven ( after a decent drive) for minor leakage. if leaking just tighten it a bit with your hand. (dont leave it to long to check and tighten as heat will make rubber gasket go hard and will break seal and then you will have to replace filter again...) * best to do it yourself in your own time because most mechanics (under a time scedule) wont let it sit to drain long enough, which leaves contaminated oil inside engine and will contaminate new oil. If done correctly when driving (highway or freeway) your dash cluster oil pressure gauge should be on the 4 mark or very very close to. any qustions please ask... cheers

iv just bought eylids for my r33, dunno if i will fit them as yet....can i get a bit of feedback on them if you have them fitted. Do they collect condensation under them or anything? or your comments on them... whether your a lover or a hater ect. thanks