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my r33 running 10psi - 221kw (highway) is better than a guy i know who bought nearly stock r33! dunno if there is anything wrong with his car...... just changed my fuel filter too. plus tighned my intercooler piping which is always good because loose pipes ect. will make you car idle higher... more fuel consuption. And dont hit the accelerater too hard, cause when i open her up u can see the fuel gauge needle drop!

R33 Fusebox translation Dashboard Fusebox Left Column, top to bottom: Right Column, top to bottom 10A - Rear Wiper 10A - Shift lock 10A - Anti-stop 10A - A/T control 10A - Starter Indicator 10A - Air conditioner 10A - Room lamp 10A - Engine control 10A - Stop lamp 10A - Air bag 10A - Electrics 20A - Blower motor 10A - Engine Control 20A - Blower motor 10A - Hazard lamp 10A - Audio 15A - Fog lamp 15A - Cigarette lighter 10A - Turn signal 20A - Front wiper 10A - Meters 10A - Mirror de-fogger 10A - Electrics 20A - Rear de-fogger Note that the engine bay fuse / relay box has a fuse key printed on the inside of the cover in english. hope this helps...

mate been up launy on a sat night, done the block nearly got hit! havent been there for a while...

had same problem in my VS commodore once. had a 5" autometer tacho in it and one night it got broken into and stole the tacho and just riped on the wires... after that i had that problem... but never fixed it... sold car with the problem...

i had a sound in the car which sounded clunky as i ran over a bump or something it sounded like it was in the front but people outside the car (as i was pulling up outside work one day) said it sounded like rear... for a long time before that i thought it was front strut damage or something to do with suspension, but in the end it was my center cap on rear wheel piece over my volk racing wheels... didnt matter how much i tightened it, it still clunked. ended up putting a piece of rubber under the cap... stopped it...

its used for blocking up, mine is blue with a clamp round it, its on the flexible 3inch piping near my actulator... does this help

i got my shifter brand new under $100 havent put it in yet but going of the step by step pictured guide thread should have it in soon... here it is

exactly the same prob i had... might i say its a good idea you wear eye protection as today i cut my fuel line and the fuel shot up and it just missed the eye balls!... iv had fuel in my eyes before looking over a carbie after tiping some in and my mate didnt look to see if i had my head out of it... but i think it was a high octane, maybe avgas, as the car was a speedway vehicle... stung a bit

very true as i bought my car already modified... being my first turbo car (was a commodore man thru and thru) im getting there.... i will post a pic of my engine bay soon i might have a pic but i know it definatly not a top view and wouldnt see much

thats no good at all... i had a mate with a rodeo. keept in in a double bay garage... they were getting in the engine bay and they ate through his headlight wiring, cost him a bit... probably best to go get some rat sack now...

well i went down to super cheap and bought a meter of 5/16 (7.9mm) hose and a pack of 2 clamps for my R33 gts-t series 1 RB25t cost me $7.99 for fuel hose and $3.00 for the small hose clamps. You can buy coloured fuel lines by the meter in a packet but it cost $13.99 + colours they had only consisted of red and blue. Hope this helps other...

oh ok... that makes me think alot different about things... i dunno i dont think i will go to the extreme of ditchin my stereo and interiour gear ect for track seeing that it might never happen but i would definitly pick good daily driver as one of my options. street performance would proably describe what type of performance ect.

thanks for that, will make it easier for me + there is a skline meet in progress i can do my car early and head of to that... thanks again SAU members

well would like it for track... one day but not at the mo... yes suspension i need to consider to stiffing up my ride as it has a little bit of body roll in corners... also if a bigger turbo is my best move in getting more power will i need to do much more to my motor to with stand a bigger turbo. would a high flow be any better...

hi guys want to buy a R33 power steering pump for rb25 turbo as the one in my car is leaking and over time it is getting worse... will prefer out of a car with low k's or reconditioned... thanks SAU members

oh really... well that explains it all... here i was thinkin with extra mods my car was actually slower than stock and something was very wrong... help to know how to read it i guess. :laughing-smiley-014:

8 or 6 mm... i will keep that in mind but i guess my best chance of doing it right the first time is to take existing hose off and to go get 1 meter - 1.5 hose thanks guys * if anyone is definate on hose size please post... as it will be easier hehe :laughing-smiley-014:

was thinkin of gettin one but not now

top run says 35psi (if thats what it means)... but im not 100% on reading dyno sheets

my dyno sheet that come with car

oh ok, did it perform better in front? did it make a louder induction sound in front?

it feels good, quickish like it should running 10 i guess... but on idle it tends to pop and crackle (probably exhaust)... oh and it feels like it has a bit of a flat spot at low revs... i think i need a tune by the sounds of things.

suppose it makes sence to keep it in a dryer place...

dyno sheet from when it was dyno tuned at JEM... i can post it up if you want to c it yourself

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