Gaspard

AAC valve eh... I have noticed hunting when using A/C and power steering etc... Occasional stalling when coming to a stop with A/C on or coming around a corner. I had figured it was down to an old oxy sensor as that is common on other cars, but this sounds like a quick/cheap and (relatively) easy fix. I'm now planning on doing this cleaning procedure later this week. Series 1 Stagea (RB25DET) R33 equiv. Since these don't have a manual option, mine is Automatic. Just wonder what the suggested idle is for automatic?? 900ish or lower/higher Cheers PS: The inline pictures show as URLs and a bunch of thumbnails below the post... the URLs open a broken popup window (which if you replace "image-cache." with "www." then it works) PPS: To all RB Turbo owners, if you have not already replaced or fixed the coils on your car, do it now, it helps a lot, $2 tape for the poor, $20 silicone for the smart, $1000 Splitfires for the rich

I see URLs in the place of the images, and when clicked they open in a new window with the following error: Could not resolve Hostname "image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com" But if I change the new window's URL from "http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/uploads/post-20406-1142855991.jpg" to "http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/uploads/post-20406-1142855991.jpg" (Changing image-cache to www) Then it works fine... And also, all the thumbnails show at the bottom of the post, and when clicked, they come up fine. Weird.

hmm just tightened this up on my 1996 Stagea RS Four V Thanks for the pic and tips... could have figured it out, but it's just helpful to have a hint when pulling off clipped items -- gives more confidence that it won't break off. The noise/rattle is improved somewhat, however I noticed that even after tightening the mechanism still rattles when shut or on bumpy roads... I found the actual window regulator arm is fairly cheap and has a lot of play.. also the front track has no wheel it's just two pieces of rubber.. So overall.. it's no "merc" but it's much improved. Has anyone gone the "money-is-no-object" route and actually bought replacement parts for the window mechanism from Nissan, and is it any tighter when new?? Just curious.

It worked for me (S1 Stagea RB25DET): Tape -- Free (from my toolbox) 1 hour labour -- dirty and annoying, but also free Not misfiring!! -- PRICELESS! -G

Thanks, i'll have a look in there.

Hi all There doesn't appear to be any New Zealand forums regarding these great wagons, so... I just bought a 1996 Stagea RS FOUR V with 128kms on the odo, basically stock with a few small mods... A very sweet car!! I love the performance, seems to have more "Real" power then the Subaru Legacies I was test driving. one thing I have not figured out yet is how to re-hook up the boost control solenoid, as the previous owner was experimenting with boost controller but removed it and just dummied off the solenoid and hooked up the vacuum line straight to the wastegate actuater... So if anyone has a picture or diagram of where the original vacuum lines went on the RB25DET boost control solenoid... that would be great, cheers! Gaspard

Just bought a 1996 RS Four V it has the Auto lights... with the light sensor on the dashboard (drivers side) and since the car has a turbo timer, the auto-off when you leave the car does not work... which sucks cause otherwise I would use the auto lights... They do turn on and off a bit if you're going through the trees etc, and start on park/driving lights when it's not really dark... would be good if the turbo timer (which I might disable anyway) didn't screw with that circuit... The car manual (aftermarket translated one) I have says they are meant to turn off when you leave the car... just my 2 cents ----- Auckland, New Zealand 1996 Stagea RS FOUR V Leather Seats (not heated), Stock, except: Bilstein shocks, Tein Springs, GTR intercooler, Cat replaced with straight pipe, Boost gauge, Larger trans cooler, Pod filter, aftermarket rear muffler, Dynatron alarm/immobiliser and turbo timer.