cpt_impossible

http://www.meggala.com/mods3.htm

IIRC you have to: A) Also get the R33 turbo hot pipe elbow that has the nipple built into it. B) Tap a new nipple into the hotpipe to use as a boost source for the wastegate.

Here is a writeup I did for NICO Club (US), maybe something in it will help. OMG my RB is overheating Oh, and the water pump sucking the line closed, that was my problem I believe. When I replaced the lower hose, which was soft with an OEM unit from tweakit, the overheating problem I had at constant higher RPM (Freeway) went away.

Thank you

Can I do this just by takign the CAS cover off and looking?

I am starting to wonder if my engine installer was off by a tooth or something when he installed the Greddy timing belt before the engine went in.

Stock cam pulleys, stock ecu, set idle to 650 before doing timing.

Thanks for the reply: Today I tried measuring timing by taking coil one off and running a normal spark plug wire between it and the plug. I clamped the inductive lead around that and it read identical to using the black loop. I used this reading to adjust it back down to 15btdc, which as you suggested, is almost fully clockwide. 30 seems to be the dead center. Basically I am still stuck.

The 1st set of plugs I tried when replacing the 5's that were in there were: NGK BCPR6ES-11 I gapped them down to 0.86mm and that is when all this began. Since then I tried NGK V Power 6's that were factory gapped to 0.8mm. I verified the gap and left them that way. They still miss at idle (maybe a little worse than the BCPR). Today, I tried doubling the timing to 30 based on the info by some that cheap timing lights can read double what is really going on in the RB when you use the timing loop. It idled and revved fine, but I didn't want to risk the motor by driving hard on it, so I broke down and did it the annoying way, stealing a plug wire from my bro's civic and putting it on cyl #1 spark plug and ran that to the #1 coil and used that wire for the inductive timing light. If my research is correct, the double timing issue with cheap lights doesnt happen when you do this and it read at 30 still. Based on this I am thinking the timing light is reading correctly so I set it back down to 15. (where it felt absolutely gutless on the street.)

Ok, so I was searching all morning and found that many of them were reporting that if you use the black loop with a cheap timing light, the reading will be cut in half on some guns. therefore, when I set it to 15, I am really only getting 7.5 and what I need to do is set it to 30btdc.So I decided to give it a shot. Set it to 30 once the idle came down and car was up to temp, 30 was right in the smack center of the CAS adjustment range which would seem to confirm this. The popping int he exhaust at idle is accelerated though which I guess it to be expected when you double the timing. Maybe I have a bad coil pack? It is odd that if I did it wouldn't give me any problems before changing the spark plugs to a smaller gap. If anything it should have caused problems on the large factory gap of 1mm. Have not tried to drive on it yet though. Other than the miss at idle, the idle sounds smooth and it revs quickly.

-By black loop I mean the wire loop toward the intake mani side of the ignittor chip built into the harness for diagnostic purposes. -I don't have an SAFC... If the black loop is not appropriate, then is there something that I can use that doesnt require dissasembly before and after? I read that what some people do is take off the coil and coil pack boot on #1 and run a normal spark plug wire between the coil pack and spark plug for timing, but that would require taking everything apart, setting it up, reassembly, timing, take it all apart once timing is set, and reassemble everything to make it driveable. Seems like there must be a simpler way.

Engine came that way, doesnt choke on decel or anything so I have just left it, sounds wicked at night on an empty street though with the two bov's echoing at slightly different times. I don't see how the BOV would affect the performance under load as long as it isn't leaking. All the vac lines on it look good and If I cup my hand over it and rev the engine, it doesnt push out any air until I release the throttle. I have considered buying a stock unmodified cold pipe to rule it out, but I don't see how it would be causing any problems other than after a shift (which it doesn't). Car doesn't feel like it has a vac leak at all, and If I take the hose off the bov the car tries to die, so if it was leaking, I would guess it would do the same.

Come on, someone has to know what I am doing wrong...

So I changed out the spark plugs for the V power ones in a 6 heat range pregapped and double checked to be at 0.8mm. Didn't change idle at all, still seems to have slight misses. The NGK BCPR6ES plugs that I pulled which were only 3 days old were flat white on the grounding arm though. Not sure if I was actually running super lean or if it was just because most of the time the car was running during those 3 days was at idle and adjusting timing where the engine runs leaner rather than driving it. I read on NICO club (US forum) that timing using the black loop for timing would read higher than it actually was and that using the black loop, you wanted 25 btdc. I tried that and drove it around and it seemed to drive as it had before the spark plug change after the ECU got used to everything. Was a little sluggish, but after a few minutes of "spirited" driving, the car seemed to run fine again. Still though, if normal for me is 170whp, then my problem is not fixed as, I should be running over 200whp and this was certainly not 30hp faster than what I consider normal... Anyone have any thoughts?

A friend suggested that instead of using the black loop by the igniter to set timing, I use the lead to coil pack #1. Is that correct? Maybe I am getting the wrong signal and set timing too far back, that would explain why the car is sluggish and the CAS is almost all the way turned down.