cpt_impossible

http://www.meggala.com/mods3.htm

IIRC you have to: A) Also get the R33 turbo hot pipe elbow that has the nipple built into it. B) Tap a new nipple into the hotpipe to use as a boost source for the wastegate.

Here is a writeup I did for NICO Club (US), maybe something in it will help. OMG my RB is overheating Oh, and the water pump sucking the line closed, that was my problem I believe. When I replaced the lower hose, which was soft with an OEM unit from tweakit, the overheating problem I had at constant higher RPM (Freeway) went away.

Thank you

Can I do this just by takign the CAS cover off and looking?

I am starting to wonder if my engine installer was off by a tooth or something when he installed the Greddy timing belt before the engine went in.

Stock cam pulleys, stock ecu, set idle to 650 before doing timing.

Thanks for the reply: Today I tried measuring timing by taking coil one off and running a normal spark plug wire between it and the plug. I clamped the inductive lead around that and it read identical to using the black loop. I used this reading to adjust it back down to 15btdc, which as you suggested, is almost fully clockwide. 30 seems to be the dead center. Basically I am still stuck.

The 1st set of plugs I tried when replacing the 5's that were in there were: NGK BCPR6ES-11 I gapped them down to 0.86mm and that is when all this began. Since then I tried NGK V Power 6's that were factory gapped to 0.8mm. I verified the gap and left them that way. They still miss at idle (maybe a little worse than the BCPR). Today, I tried doubling the timing to 30 based on the info by some that cheap timing lights can read double what is really going on in the RB when you use the timing loop. It idled and revved fine, but I didn't want to risk the motor by driving hard on it, so I broke down and did it the annoying way, stealing a plug wire from my bro's civic and putting it on cyl #1 spark plug and ran that to the #1 coil and used that wire for the inductive timing light. If my research is correct, the double timing issue with cheap lights doesnt happen when you do this and it read at 30 still. Based on this I am thinking the timing light is reading correctly so I set it back down to 15. (where it felt absolutely gutless on the street.)

Ok, so I was searching all morning and found that many of them were reporting that if you use the black loop with a cheap timing light, the reading will be cut in half on some guns. therefore, when I set it to 15, I am really only getting 7.5 and what I need to do is set it to 30btdc.So I decided to give it a shot. Set it to 30 once the idle came down and car was up to temp, 30 was right in the smack center of the CAS adjustment range which would seem to confirm this. The popping int he exhaust at idle is accelerated though which I guess it to be expected when you double the timing. Maybe I have a bad coil pack? It is odd that if I did it wouldn't give me any problems before changing the spark plugs to a smaller gap. If anything it should have caused problems on the large factory gap of 1mm. Have not tried to drive on it yet though. Other than the miss at idle, the idle sounds smooth and it revs quickly.

-By black loop I mean the wire loop toward the intake mani side of the ignittor chip built into the harness for diagnostic purposes. -I don't have an SAFC... If the black loop is not appropriate, then is there something that I can use that doesnt require dissasembly before and after? I read that what some people do is take off the coil and coil pack boot on #1 and run a normal spark plug wire between the coil pack and spark plug for timing, but that would require taking everything apart, setting it up, reassembly, timing, take it all apart once timing is set, and reassemble everything to make it driveable. Seems like there must be a simpler way.

Engine came that way, doesnt choke on decel or anything so I have just left it, sounds wicked at night on an empty street though with the two bov's echoing at slightly different times. I don't see how the BOV would affect the performance under load as long as it isn't leaking. All the vac lines on it look good and If I cup my hand over it and rev the engine, it doesnt push out any air until I release the throttle. I have considered buying a stock unmodified cold pipe to rule it out, but I don't see how it would be causing any problems other than after a shift (which it doesn't). Car doesn't feel like it has a vac leak at all, and If I take the hose off the bov the car tries to die, so if it was leaking, I would guess it would do the same.

Come on, someone has to know what I am doing wrong...

So I changed out the spark plugs for the V power ones in a 6 heat range pregapped and double checked to be at 0.8mm. Didn't change idle at all, still seems to have slight misses. The NGK BCPR6ES plugs that I pulled which were only 3 days old were flat white on the grounding arm though. Not sure if I was actually running super lean or if it was just because most of the time the car was running during those 3 days was at idle and adjusting timing where the engine runs leaner rather than driving it. I read on NICO club (US forum) that timing using the black loop for timing would read higher than it actually was and that using the black loop, you wanted 25 btdc. I tried that and drove it around and it seemed to drive as it had before the spark plug change after the ECU got used to everything. Was a little sluggish, but after a few minutes of "spirited" driving, the car seemed to run fine again. Still though, if normal for me is 170whp, then my problem is not fixed as, I should be running over 200whp and this was certainly not 30hp faster than what I consider normal... Anyone have any thoughts?

A friend suggested that instead of using the black loop by the igniter to set timing, I use the lead to coil pack #1. Is that correct? Maybe I am getting the wrong signal and set timing too far back, that would explain why the car is sluggish and the CAS is almost all the way turned down.

While I'm at it, here are the covers I put on... I didn't think out the location of the lettering very well though lol, but the venting seemed like a good idea.

S13 240sx RB20det Stock Turbo Stock Injectors 3" Downpipe back, no cat 255 pump Nismo AFPR Stock intake pipe M's K&N Filter FMIC Stock BOV (plumbed) and HKS Super Sound (open vent) MBC I had my car dynod, made 170rwhp on 12psi and 191 on 15psi (accidentally went too high on MBC). Around 6,200 the power would drop and the AFR would drop into 10:1. There was some concern as to the dyno calibrations but I figured new plugs wouldn't hurt. Switched the plugs from NGK 5's gapped at 1.1 (tips looked OK) to NGK bcpr6es-11 which I gapped down to 0.86mm. While I was doing this, I swapped out the engine covers for some painted and modified ones I had and remembered that long ago, I had removed the Crank Angle Sensor without realizing the implications and I had no idea what timing was set to. So I got the plugs, in, swapped engine covers, and set timing to 15 degrees btdc using the black loop. Had to turn the CAS almost all the way to achieve 15 though, if it was in the middle, it was around 25. I have heard that 15 should be right about the middle of its range of motion so I thought that this was odd, but timing belt shouldn't have skipped or anything, It is a Greddy super strong put in only like 5 thousand miles ago (assuming the tuner installed it correctly). All of the coil packs looked great, didn't notice any cracks after inspecting each. So I get all of this done and notice that the car has a slight miss occasionally at idle (a lot better when timing was set to 15). And after driving it today it seemed slow. It revs fine at a stop and can hold any rev fine without missing, but when in motion, it seems to take longer for the tach to climb than previously. Inspected for any vac leaks and couldn't find any, even sprayed vac connections with carb cleaner, and idle didn't change at all. Inspected the open vent BOV by putting my hand in front of it while I rev and it doesn't seem to push any air until it gets vac signal to release. Maybe because timing was set so advanced before, so before it would climb rapidly and then have knock issues up top and go into R&R? Car runs great, but just seems to lack the power it had before I did the plugs and set timing. I would think if all it was screwing me up on the dyno was plugs and timing that I should see 40whp or around that in gains from correcting it, but the car seems slower still. Any suggestions?

Have we figured this out? I just changed from 5 plugs gapped to 1.0mm to 6 plugs gapped at 0.8mm and now I have this half miss stumbling sound coming from the exhaust every few seconds. Any updates?

Did you ever get this solved?

Here are some posts from NICO, the second one is one of the experiments I was refering to but after reading it, I realize I did some "rough" rounding on some of the statistics: "Thoughts: I did this right after I installed my water temp gauge in the upper radiator hose. Temps on the gauge dropped 6-8 degrees after propping the hood. The only real downfall is cruising in the summer, the heat from the hood cooks the cabin, but I removed my AC when I did my swap, so I have to crusie with my windows down. Oh well. It works." ________________________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________ "There are some pics of my RH with a cowled hood. Mine is alittle more extreme than just putting washers under the hindges. My hood has been tweaked and bent into that shape. I have a high point of 2.5" with the weather stripping removed on the rear edge as well.What I did was use an .5" wide piece of delicate cotton linen that was about 5 inches long. I duct taped it to the very edge of my hood at its highest point leaving about 4" of cloth to test. With as high as my hood is there, it is extremely easy to see. The wind was also not blowing much. 79*F 14% humidity Engine at normal operating temp and I use a clutch fan with a new clutch. What I found. Up to about 25 I had the linen standing against the windshield with occaisional flips up. That tells me that there is a negative pressure there allowing the heat out of the engine bay. After 25 up to about 60 there was a positive pressure as the linen was pushed under the hood. The highest pressure being about 45-50. This pressure is strong as the linen was laid flat up against the bottom edge of the hood. After 70 it was in and out left and right... very chaotic. Buffeted (sp) pretty much. What do I think? I think my mod isnt a waste of time as it helps in town driving with stop and go traffic. Above town driving, your moving enough that adequate air is hitting the radiator and the negative pressure under the car is sucking it out. Because my hood is humped in the middle and not flat like most of y'alls, maybe it will be different, but I doubt it. I am going to channel the air from the "snorkels" in my hood over the radiator to see if that adds enough pressure to overcome the positive pressure at the base of the windshield. I hope this answers some quetions. Then the real test I taped off my hood today to ensure my cowling worked... I provided pics. I drove the same roads, in the same gear, same speed, about 10 minutes apart to ensure consistantancy. It was hot today... 90's here. sux to be in PHX when I tested. By the time I smoked two joints before I smoked two joints it was cooler before I wrote this so I cant vouch for actual outside temp. This is what I found: On my rag-tag thermometer that I use to check internal case temps on my Overclocked PC's... HI = 158.0*F Plus Hood Cowled with a 2.75" ( I raised it with a gradual from the body line in the hood) inch opening to the world. It is different now with better distinction. 25-35mph in 3rd = HI 40-55 mph in 3rd = 145-149* 65 in 4th gear = 147* 65 in OD = 133 - 137* ______________________________________________________ Hood Cowled but covered with plastic and good duct tape... not that [censored] stuff Alfred, no doubt, has in his tool box... but almost as good as Frankie has... :lol: anyways with the hood sealed up as shown.... up to 60mph it was over 158* plus in my engine bay as indicated by the "HI" so I have no indication of actual temp. at 65-68 in 4th gear it dropped to 155* and held fast for like 5 minutes. HERE IS THE KICKER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! At 65 in OD for several minutes... I saw 120* to 137* The odd thing I found. I found that the plastic on my Hood was always inflated but seemed to suck in at 50-60 at 2.75" on center ( highest ) hood... the corners were pushed way away from the body. My conclusion... Cowling works. period. Temps in general are lower at typical city driving. Above that it is still acceptable by showing no more than 60* higher than ambient. Cowl that rascal. Let the heat out. Are you scared about teaking that hood? Show some damn commitment and get something done.... let the heat out. Nothing says slow car like a heat induced [censored] performance... especially to 90% of us N/A drivers. I took the time to cowl my hood. I bent it and ruined it for "stock" looking applications. I spent time shaping it so it raises only in the middle... dont get excited Alfred... I'm still talking about my car... There is your proof boys...."

I couple of guys here in the states did a huge writeup testing the effectiveness of the raised hood modification. I don't feel like searching for the thread right now but using several temp loggers and pieces of yarn attached to the back of the hood, here is what they found. -After hot runs, the under-hood temps drop much more rapidly while at a stop or staging between runs. -While at speeds under about 25mph, the cooling fans are able to push hot air out of the back of the hood which should provide some cooling effect. -When traveling over 25mph, the air pressure at the base of the windshield overcomes the pressure created by the fans and the hot air's need to rise and forces air into the back of the engine bay. -At speeds over 25mph, there is no noticeable difference in under-hood temps I have the RB20 shoved into the S13 which cooks like an oven so I settled on just removing the weather stripping at the back of the hood. Immediately I noticed that when I park after driving and pop the hood, that huge gust of heat has already dissipated and the car cools down much more quickly when you slow down enough for the hot air to escape. So to recap, the mod is useful for those who do a lot of stop and go driving or idling after hot runs at the drag strip and such, but has no benefit for those keeping a constant high speed.

Any chance you would be willing to ship intake pipe to the states? If so I could swing 105+ shipping. City, State, Zip Code SeaTac, Washington 98188

I have tried searching this forum for the info since the States don't have a lot on the RB engines, but I keep getting different info depending on what thread I read. Some threads indicate that its R33, some Neo, some Leopard. A definitive answer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I recently bought this turbo for a screaming deal with the thought that I can sell it for more or install it on my RB20 down the road. I was told that it was from a R34 Neo RB25DET with only 15,000 miles on it. I need to determine whether or not it is a Neo turbo or just a R33 one. The intake housing has 45V2 stamped on it. As far as I have read that narrows it down to either RB25DET or VG30DET. The Exhaust housing has an OP6 or 0P6 on it. The exhaust side measures about 48mm near the flange.