Kranker

Maybe try online shops, Nengun, Greenline etc...there are loads of them, do a search on what ppl think of the various shops. My guess is that these will be cheaper, but might not be factory nissan parts, but quality shouldnt be an issue if you buy a quality brand name.

Dont know how reliable the source is but... http://www.zerotohundred.com/2008/auto-new...ng-performance/ Looks like its front engined and AWD, thats hardly an NSX if you ask me. Should call it the Honda GT-LF because they have copied the 5.0L+ V10 from the Lexus and the AWD from the GTR....soft effort Honda. They should build a propper NSX, light weight, twin turbos, mid mount V6 or V8 (i think mugen has built a rather nice V8 recently), reardrive, and propper supercar wedge shape, nice driving manners. Thats an NSX. This thing does look alright though, from what i can see (just not worthy of the NSX title, needs a new name if they are going to build it in this configuration)

Im all for dropping in better engines into cheaper cars, but in your case, as J'z-R33 said, its hardly worth it. May aswell sell urs and buy the GTST Will workout much cheaper and less headaches sorry mate

Very true, cant agree more, ABS is a great safety feature. I just though id let you know that the NX had a bit of a reputation, thats all. Good luck with your descision.

No not my opinion, and i havnt driven one...may be a brilliant drive Have a look at this http://www.howsafeisyourcar.com.au/_script...lt.php?IID=1400 edit: it get 1 star out of 5 for occupant safety which is the improtant one...who cares about pedestrians

Crash one of these and it will kill you, thats all im going to say about it. Engine may be fine, may be based on am N14 pulsar, but the NX offers crap crash protection, which i think is very important in a first car. Better off in a 'rolla if you ask me, yes boring as shit, but kids (and im only 20 so still a kid) do tend to get themselves in prangs quite easily. Out of a group of 30 mates, there are only 3 of us who (including me) havnt crashed in the last 4 years. So im not saying buy something boring, she should just buy something that wont crumple into nothing when it hits something. My $0.02

If all you're concerned with is drag times, then ditch the Bilsteins and run stock suspension, The higher ride height, and softer springs etc. mean you will have more weight transfer over to your rear wheels, and therefore more grip. Get yourself a set of street drag radials like Mickey Thompsons or something, good clutch that can be slipped a bit aswell, and you might get into the 11s with your power...if you can drive...maybe Dont buy a rex plealse, haha joking. But seriously, i doubt that he can run an 11 with 190awkw. We've got a Mazda6 MPS, and some guys in the states have modded these and put out about 200-210awkw, and they run high 12s (1600kg car) (we've done 13.9 on my g-tech, with stock car, on a private section of road at a mates farm). So less power and lighter car in the WRX means he might get a low 12 if hes a top driver, and doesnt break his gearbox. Race the guy at a propper off street drag meet, win or lose it doesnt matter, you'll learn something either way. Just have a go, and if you loose then drive his car, if you like it buy a rex by all means, But its not EASY to get mid 11s out of anything. edit: read post above....autos are for ppl who cant drive haha

Havnt driven a 33 4door, but have driven a 33gtst, and on a seperate occasion r34 25GT (rwd non-turbo manuals) 2 and 4 doors back to back to specifically see if there is a differecne (wanted to know how they go as im planning on buying a 4door R34 GTFOUR in the near future). Both the r34s perform almost identically. If you percieved a difference it was most likley that the 2door that you drove was an r34 GTV which has the brakes and suspension from the GTT, even then the difference isnt that huge. There should be almost no difference in performance, there is only a 60kg weight difference. As for the OPs question, there may be a difference, not 100% sure on the R33s, but the fundamental structure of the suspension is the same, but it may have a slightly softer set-up. Nothing a SydneyKid suspension kit would fix. And the engine and drivetrain are exactly the same. check this out for the specs: http://www.japanesesportcars.com/skyline/s...r33_gts25tm.php The sedan is 8cm longer and 2cm taller and same ground clearance. Both sedan and coupe have identical wheelbase and track, and the sedan weighs 70kg more. So to answer your question f**k all difference, go for a 4 door! thats my plan anyway.

This is to Luke_ENR34: you've got the same as an R32/R33 GTR, internally same as R33 GTST, so plenty strong.

I know a place in adelaide thats cheaper, Kmart. Buy a hair dryer and a wooden baseball bat and roll away....seriously Did it on the Mazda6 MPS when we fitted 235s all round up from 215s. No paint cracking, very neat, very easy. But by all means go to a professional if your not comfortable doing it yourself or want a better finish, but $100 a corner sounds a bit expensive.

Slightly off the point, but unless we fix the problems with current fuel pricing, the same things will happen once alternative fuels come into play. Doesnt matter if we switch to hydrogen combution (good), or hydrogen fuel cells (ghey), or helium-3 from the moon (not sure on this one yet) or whatever by 20XX, the same companies who were selling us petrol and deisel will be selling us alternative fuels. And they will do exactly the same stuffing around with prices that they are doing at the moment. Hybrid cars are a joke, a complete gimic, not an answer to the worlds problems. You get better economy for a diesel Golf. Gov needs to pull its finger out and step in for the aussie consumer, dont know how, but they just do. Who knows, they may even create even more employement because with cheaper fuel the aussie car companies will probably be selling more large cars, thus creating more local jobs...maybe... They dont need to tax fuel at all....they make plenty of money from the pokies anyway haha. Had my little rant...calm now.

...your dont "have" to take your foot off the throttle.... like joeyjoejoe said, flatshift the bastard haha! But seriously, its what a turbo car does, you dont make boost when your not on the throttle. Change gears at higher rpm, double clutching and doing faster changes might minimise the effect, but its not exactly gentle on the car. Nothing much you can really do to keep the turbo making boost while the throttle is closed.

From memory a car can be 100mm from the ground at its lowest point. Fit the kit, find the lowest point (lowest point might be the exhaust). Then work out how much you can drop your car from there. Hope that helps

Dont ride bikes myself....yet, just a bit of farm/paddock thrashing on a trail bike. But the old man has been riding for 30+ years, Keep the skyline and get a bike, but dont get a 1000, 600s (according to dad, and mates who ride) are much more fun, and less looney. What ever you do dont get a scooter.....scum of the road! haha And a stock R1 may be able to run a 9sec 1/4 (still think a 10 is more likely), but i gaurantee you that the dude who ran the 9 was one hell of a rider, not your average bloke whos been riding for a couple of years. Average rider on an R1 would prob run a 11sec 1/4. Launching bikes is increadibly more difficult than launching a car.

Wow, fantastic set up BB!! Congrats! One little question though: you dont appear to have changed any of the bottom end. Are you using standard pistons and rods? Or did i just miss something. Hope she goes to a deserving home! Deserves nothing less.

$100 bucks says it was a soft yank roll-on race! haha There is no way that a civic can launch harder than an R35 without drag slicks and wheelie bars. No doubt that civic is a very quick car and with a fair monster of an engine that makes some serious power...but still a civic. Still shows what some quality tuning can do

Wouldnt say that 2 piston vs 4 piston, that 4 piston is "twice" as good. Similar logic applys to brake pistons as it does to engine pistons. Having more doesnt necessarily make it better, but it may do. If you had two sets of brakes, same size disks, one had 4 pistons clamping down on it each with 20cc capacity (4x20=80cc) (arbitrary values), and the other disk had 2 pistons each 40cc (2x40=80cc) the 4 piston brake wouldnt be 2x better, but it would be better nonetheless. More pistons disperses the heat, load, etc more evenly/effectivley, and spread the braking force over a larger area of the disk, less chance of the disc warping. In the case of turbo vs non turbo brakes, yes the turbo brakes are without a doubt better brakes, and are a good upgrade if you can get them at a good price.

You cant really say which one is "better" V6 is more compact, but is more complicated (ie complex intake, double the cams) Straight 6 is simpler but has a longer crank, so more load on the end furthest from the flywheel but is smoother and has some natural balance. Its not the configuration of the cylinders that makes or breaks an engine it is how it is designed. Bore, stroke, compression ratio, head configuration etc has a far greater affect on an engine than whether its a V or straight. There are examples of good and bad I6 and V6 engines And to Kinks, the reason F1 cars rev to 18k+rpm is that they are limited to a very small capacity. Being as Kw = (Nm x rpm)/9550, for these little (ie. not very torquey) engines to make the power levels that they do, they need to rev like crazy and be designed to make what little torque they can at those high revs. And you are right, it is all down to gearing, but that same principle applys to low revving cars aswell, just look at the Audi diesle Le Mans race car, it wont even pull 5,000rpm, but thanks to clever gearing the thing is increadibly fast. But this is all off topic.

What i do know is that the system in the Chrysler 300C actally alternates which cylinders are shut down, otherwise you would have uneven wear within your engine. And according to reviews in some major motoring publications, it doesnt really give a dramatic improvement in real world economy. Its still all new technology so I dont think we're going to see any real improvement in fuel economy from cylinder deactivation for a couple of vehicle generations yet. I think its only a sales gimmic...like hybrid cars. Pseudo-green cars. In my opinion you want economy go buy a new diesel golf. (i die a little inside when i suggest someone buys a diesel). Would be a laugh to try it, pick up a sh!t box from a wreckers and wire a switch to deactivate 2 injectors like you suggested. Just dont spend any money on the thing.

Thanks for that ...nice to have it confirmed.

Hi all, been away from the forum for ages, but still saving the $ for my R34 4 door build (takes a while for a uni student), but getting closer Ive always thought (and have based much of my modification plans on) that the R34 GT-Four (NA AWD) runs the RB25DET gearbox. Essentially the same as, or very similar to the R32 and R33 GT-R 'boxes, and the R33 Gts-t and R34 GTT 'boxes. This gearbox should take the power from the RB26 with mild mods im planning on building and installing. However after using the search fuction (thought id check before posting the question) I found a post that says that the R34 GT and GTV have the same 'box that the RB20DET R32s came with: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=gearbox Which is a much weaker gearbox. Doesnt make alot of sense to me, but car makers have done stranger things. Is it the case, that non turbo R34s came with a weaker gearbox than the GTT? Or does the AWD version run the stronger gearbox despite being NA? ......(hopefully!) Any info would be great! .....(and sorry if this is a repost of anything recent) Cheers!

Hi guys and gals. Im looking to buy some old issues of Speed magazine. I want issue 1, 2 and 3. Please let me know if you have any of these and would like to sell them. Cheers

Im also interested in this...specifically the Supra 'box. From what i can tell, internally its the same Getrag unit as in the R34 GTR aswell as last generation M3 and M5 BMWs. But i doubt the housing is the same. So would prob need some mods/fabrication to make it fit.

The VR38DETT sounds like a beast...titanium used extensively so would cost a fortune. Only thing i dont like is the 7000rpm redline...a GTR motor should rev past 8k im my opinion ...hopefully it does and the limiter can be removed.

Just a quick question, can you get IMPUL sideskirts for the 4 door R34, I love the whole kit, but havn't seen it on a 4 door before. Cheers.