Kranker

Do you mean something a bit like what VW have in their new Golf GT? Supercharger with a clutch, and a turbo. The work independantly, but the supercharger masks the lack of low rpm boost from the turbo, then at around 3500rpm a clutch cuts the SC and the turbo works alone. This avoids the SC draining power at high revs. ............At least I think thats the basic idea behind it. Dont know how youd get the clutch to work...maybe Mad Max style with a button on ur gear stick, haha If you had the SC pumping air into a pipe between the turbo and the intercooler, (as opposed to a twin entry cooler), it could have a suction affect, bringing the turbo on quicker again. ...I dunno

Your going to have to describe the noise a bit better. There are some basic diagnostic things you can do. Does the noise increase with speed or with revs? If its revs it might be engine or possibly gearbox. If its speed it could be tyres, wheel bearings, diff, etc. Take it to your mechanic and take him for a drive, see if he can diagnose it. ...and by the way its "noiSe" not "noiCe". Good luck fixing it.

Pauter do make titanium rods, which are supposed to be dam good, but they are much more expensive than their E4340 rods. Quite frankly out of my budget. A set of 6 E4340's for your RB26 will cost $1176 USD, while a single titanium rod costs $1350 USD, thats $8100 for a set...ouch!!!

Whoops! sorry didnt realise that Neo's had top injectors. Thought all RB 25's were the same. ...you learn something new every day.

Thanks for that Bl0r, Good info there. Sounds like you know your stuff. Again, I beams are reccomended. Correct me if im wrong, but would building your engine "tighter" as in lower tolerances and gaps, reduce the rist of play and/or rattle? Therefore lowering your chance of causing damage? rb26s13, the pauter rods are interesting arent they, i gotta do some more research. Is anyone on here running them?

I like your style DECIM8! haha Yeh could be worth looking into atleast. It is a bit dodgey doing it with out any insurance though, but it is cheaper.

Very nice kit! Car will look great when its all done.

Id try it without the filter and put the original on and see what happens. That way youll know whether its the new intake or not. Failing that bump the idle up a bit. This wont fix the problem, just masks the symptoms, but might stop it rattling and spluttering at the lights.

This is what a Pauter rod looks like anyway... Its supposed to be some pretty good gear.

Yeh i wasnt really worried about actually bending a rod, Is meant as more of a discussion and throwing ideas around thread. Not as a "which rod should i buy". I like a good technical thread. cheers for the replys.

Thanks for that Shonen, Good to hear that it has been done. I do want my car to be individal, but those cheaper kits do have their appeal. Must admit, I do like the BN kit aswell. This is gonna take some serious thinking... When I make my discision, get the car and get a bodykit ill post lots of pics either way.

Thanks djr81, great response. Not boring at all, I love the physics of how engines work (im studying automotive engineering). Lots of good info there. From what ive read aswell, I beam is the way to go. Cheers

Now ive pretty much settled on the bottom end of my RB26 build. CP pistons, Shotpeened nitrided and balanced std crank and Pauter rods. Only thing is Pauter rods are a bit pricey compared to some other rods, but you get what you pay for. So what I want to know is what the general consensis is on conrods: I beam or H beam. (Pauter rods are neither I or H beam, they are a cross or x shape, but im only concerned with I and H) From what I know (and im still learning), I beam rods are lighter and stronger than H beams. However ive read that when a H beam distorts or bends it does so much slower and in a more controlled way than an I beam. So if your H beam rod goes, you have more time to turn your engine off and save it from destruction. Dont know how true it is, there is a bit of mystery and magic when it comes to engine internals. Would love to know what you all think. H beam left, I beam right

Just get bigger injectors for your rb25, 25's use side feed high impedance, 26's use top feed low impedance. There are plenty of options that fit the 25 though.

Congrats on the new car, Im saving for my first Skyline (r34 4 door). Almost there, should have enough soon. Very jealous.

I guess nice is a matter of opinion... I dont want my car to have silly wings or over the top bodykits, Ive always liked the GT-R Z tune's bumper and this one is kinda similar...but fits on a non GT-R. That way it might give people a hint of what im planning to put under the bonnet. ....eventually....when carsh permits . Still would really appreciate hearing from someone who has imported a body kit. Cheers for the responses guys, all opinions are welcome

Good to hear you got your car back, Hope the bastards get caught, but it doesnt happen often. The police try to help, have met some really good cops, but they just dont follow things up. I was at a house party that got crashed right at the end of the night, 25 guys got stuck into me and 5 mates, we got a thourough working over, as youd expect, but got a few of our own in. We gave full descriptions to the police. They called my friend 2 weeks later saying "we think we know who they are, their names are Mr X. and Mr Y." ...Mr X and Mr Y were my two mates who were on the recieving end of the violence. Ah well what u gonna do. Catching real crooks doesnt bring in the $$$ like speed cameras do ...jks.

Clearly not a member of the less is more school of car modification. People like that give the V8 brigade all the ammunition they need to give Skyline owners Sh!t.

If it sounds like a Rex its missing. ie. missfiring. But whats causing it is another matter, but problems with your spark plugs is fairly likley the cause. Best take it back to the tuner and get his opinion them either fix it, or have him fix it.

Reason im asking is that if the whole process is a bit too hard, ill just go for a cheaper BN style kit from a local retailer. ...But I would really prefer the cross-factory kit

Yeh they do some nice stuff dont they. Its not a huge range but it all looks great. Has anyone brought a body kit from Japan, any brand, not just cross-factory? Was it a smooth and easy process?

Ive worked it out, what you need to do is get some magnetic GT-R badges. When you park, you pull ur GT-R badges off and there you have it, its not a GT-R anymore. Just stick 'em back on when you get back in. But on a serious note that is some scary stuff. Computers that hack into the alarm and imobiliser is a daunting thought, these theives get more and more professional. Makes you want to go out and get some of this gear: http://www.carsecurity1.co.uk/autoTaser.htm

Found this Japanese company that makes bodykits. They're called Cross-Factory and make one particular kit for the 4 door R34 that is my personal fave. Would love to get one, does anyone know about fit and quality of these kits? Also if I did order them from Japan, do bodykits travel well? Or will i end up with a box full of cracked bumpers and sideskirts because it got bumped and droped along its journey? Any one done something like this (bought a kit fom Japan)? Any ideas on the cost of shipping? Cheers

Nice work, may be very helpful if i cant find the right R34 in manual and have to go for an auto. Last gearbox swap I did was on a Fiat 124cc, no hoist, no jack under the gearbox. Just me and my dad under the car (it was up on stands), and essentially we pushed the gearbox up into position with our hands while lying flat on our back, took us 5 hours to get the thing in and bolted up....i wont make that mistake again! ...Next time I'll find a mate with a hoist, haha.

Your R33 shouldnt plow understeer like you described. Last model Celica on the other hand, drive one of then and you will gain a new understanding of the term understeer . Could be that your just going in to the corner too fast, stick with the tried and true slow in fast out cornering technique, or maybe trail brake into the corner. Couple of general guides for reducing understeer: -More front neg camber -More front pos castor -Harder rear anti roll bar, and softer in front -Stiffen rear springs and shocks, soften fronts But to do this you need to invest in some quality suspension components. Hope that helps.