Mark_McQ

It'll be a straight fit. The only thing you'll need to do is run a vacuum line off of your intercooler piping for the actuator, as your RB20 turbo has one built into the housing, where the RB25 doesn't. If you re-use the RB20 actuator too, you'll have slightly higher boost. Think it's 2 psi or something difference.

For a job like that, you'llbe better using fibreglass sheets and resin, rather than the stuff you mix into a paste. That way you can lay it down to follow the curves.

The problem with these other versions of Top Gear, not just the Aussie one, is that they should've found people with their own chemistry, instead of trying to find people with similar personalities as the originals. Instead, we get the older quipping guy, the young 'hip' short one, and a middle aged guy who 'shouldn't be cool, but is. The US one would've probably lasted a lot longer with perhaps Jay Leno as the host. I watched a subbed version of the Russian one a few months back and it was absoloutely woeful.

RHDJapan stock the D-Max one.

It may be the coil packs. It's common fault on these, and it manifests around the 4k mark as you're experiencing.

Yeah mate, they sell them seperate. They come with a couple of sticky mounting pads. Here's one going cheap on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com.au/APEXI-SAFC-AVC-R-ST...id=p3286.c0.m14

I'm using one of the Apexi mounting brackets that comes with AVC-R/RSM/etc mounted flat to my dash, the faceplate then can swivel up to 90 degrees and the hand commander sits just right:

It'll be ok. I have my intake one blocked off as I replaced my intake accordian pipe with a solid metal one.

I think it's for grating cheese into strips.

Sard sell an optional part which is a seperate collar that's required for some cars when using their injectors. You may need a set of those.

I have that kit on my 32 and I dislike the front bumper, wish I had cash to change it. The side skirts from the kit, however, are awesome. Love the way they curve in at the rear, gives the rear quarters a wider look. One thing I'll say about the bumper is it's a pain in the arse to clean. You'll find the lower corners behind the swoopy part retains a lot of crap from the road.

I've got that kit fitted to mine, it's pretty decent, although when I get the cash together, I'm going to upgrade to a better one. That particular Greddy one uses standard hose clamps with the fake Earls style coupler cover, and with braided hoses, it's not the best solution as they don't clamp as tight because of the overbraid, compared to how they would hold a regular hose.

The stock bellmouth type on the 20/25 is more efficient than those supposed 'high flow' dump pipes. Not only can the high-flow ones sometimes stop the wastegate penny opening properly, but in some cases you can experience overboosting because the gases can't get out quick enough.

A blow off valve won't do any damage to your car. To adjust the valve, there's usually a small screw or hex bolt on the top that you can adjust. This compresses the spring inside and changes how the valve responds to boost pressure. The tighter it is, the higher the pressure needs to be before it opens to expel the air. For your AVC-R, you need the pressure sensor for reading the boost pressure, and the solenoid unit. I'm pretty sure you can buy those both seperate. I know the solenoid is the same one as the PowerFC boost kit uses, and that can be purchased seperately. Have a look on RHDJapan.com, they stock that stuff.

If it's a real one, the two supports at the top of the legs sit flush inside the top section. On copies the top section sits 'on top' of them.