GTRPSI

Good work there Daz, enjoy your new bits now.

PM sent regarding diff.

Time will tell. Went for some high speed late hard braking today, rear started to controlably slide sideways without locking when braking in a straight line, fronts were planted. AD08's are on the rear.....they are at the point where i would call them dangerous when cold. (and heat cycled a few times too many)

What thread inserts were used to fix the stripped threads? Have you tested the engine with them in or you have not put it back together again? Reason i ask is because the RB30 block is already pretty weak in the deck area before going to the larger RB26 studs, adding thread inserts would only weaken it further. Curious to know which inserts were used and how it goes with them.....

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Our AD08's always needed some heat even when new. Id agree that too many heat cycles dont do them any good and they fall off with mileage. Will be interesting to see what the RS-RR's are like when old, at the moment they are outperforming the AD08's new for new. Would be a perfect street car hill climb tyre, sticky with little heat.....will also monitor wear rate on them.....

Car is a Supercharged S2000 (1200kg) laying 250Kw at the rears. Traction was great with AD08's In summer or with hard driving on windy roads, but all other times you needed to work them to heat them on the street, other wise, slide city. RS-RR.....think AD08's when hot.....but its cold and you have not heated them yet.... Currently the RSRR are only on the front, now its point and shoot like a go kart, sticks like anything...the rears (ad08 still on) just follows the front while sliding.

We removed our AD08's off the front of one of our cars and put the new Federal RS-RR (extra R). Cant believe the grip levels now.....wont be going back to AD08's in a hurry.....

Cometic have not such a good name when used on a few different makes of engines. I know they are prone to failure on S2000 engines, especially if adding boost to them, everyone was using either OEM (factory is a MLS Gasket) or any other aftermarket MLS brand. There are thread after threads about Cometic failing on those engines, especially if using ARP bolts, the only ones that have not failed have had the rocker covers removed and retorqued every 5000Km......

Or add another welded in straight through muffler.....

Go to one of the flanges of the exhaust, undo it a little and slip in a gasket made of tin with a 1.5"-2" inch hole in it.......remove after test.....

Pics of it on the car? 4inch inner or outer diameter?

In that case you MAY POSSIBLY be fine.....

If the turbos not blowing smoke your fine. What i would be worrying about is how lean you got your engine.......

Drill out oil feeds for more oil to the bearings. Factory ones are tiny.... Dont be scared.... Drill out oil drains... Cut the groves under the bearing shells and use RB26 bearings to ensure a good oil supply. Run a deeper larger capacity oil sump with trap doors, make sure the pickup sits low enough but not too low....(RB30 Pickup pictured). Dont forget to make sure its in the middle of the trap door assembly, too far back and the rear door cant open to let oil in.. We used a crank scraper. We also used Nitto pistons and rods, we anti friction coated the piston skirts and ceramic coated the crowns to assist cooling. (plus lots and lots more like partially grouting and stress reliving and deburring the block.) We also used a Tomei oil pump due to being able to control oil pressure externally, yes clearances were set on the "too loose" side. Cams are 280 11.5, 1mm oversized valves, thicker buckets, double valve springs, heads had the exhaust side extensively ported, yet to get around to finishing the intake ports and reshaping the combustion chambers, been too busy with work to get around to it for the last year or so....

Its a RB30 bottom end, had to adjust it a few times to get it on the money where i wanted it. Should be some pics in my photo galley of the way it sat and the adjustments we made.

I didn't find the box to stupidly loud to be honest. But I think we all have different variations of loud lol. Yes it can be used on the street quite easily.

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Would you sell them without pads?

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Only remove the shim that goes half way. Replace it with a full shim or No shim, nothing wrong with no shim, if your worried about noise you can buy sound absorbing stick-on backing pads or lightly smear some copper grease on any metal to metal pad to caliper contact points such as where the pistons push to the back of the pads. In the case we had, we just removed the shim and ran without one, we just smeared a little copper grease on the backing plate to caliper contact points. No more side wear, all the others that still run the half backing plates still have the sideways wear pattern.

100% its the shims. We saw exactly the same thing on EBC Yellow Stuff pads (900 degree rating) on the rear of Honda S2000 models. The shim they supplied only covered half the area it needed to, took all of 2 seconds to work out the pad was forced to run skewed. Told RDA and EBC about it with pictures with shims and without shims, problem gone....they still supply the shims....

bump... will swap for precision 7675 gt42 style plus cash my way!

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Adjustable lower and upper arms can help you bring in the wheels a little if they dont rub on the inside. The CV joints can slide in more if needed, but dont go too far.