GTRPSI

Nah too much stroking it here in Aus, not enough actual doing anything about it.

I just popped the bonnet to take a closer look on the sons S2000. FPR on the right (vacuum hose connected to it) Yellowish/white thing on the left is the fuel inlet line with dampner. Another angle where you can see a banjo fuel in fitting under it. Im thinking this is one version on one car, there could be others that dont use the banjo and can simply thread straight into the fuel rail as a stand alone unit, using the fuel rail as a fuel manifold. Otherwise leave the banjo line in blocked or use a hollow spacer in its place, simply drill and tap a hole with thread into the fuel rail, mount one on the front half for the first 3 injectors and another one on the rear for the last 3 in twin entry fuel rail situations. Or in other words, dont let fuel enter through them, leave them free on the rail to absorb pulses, let the fuel in as per normal so you can run whatever AN fittings you want without any restriction. Edit, i wouldnt use them on the ends of the fuel rail with a banjo to let the fuel in as i think they would be too restrictive to fuel flow on high Hp situations, then again you could drill out the bango bolt holes for more flow.

If its fitted in the car, buy a cheap oil filter, fit it snugly but not tight, mark where the top is and remove it. Then cut open a hole in the top of it and remove its guts, make sure you wash it good before refitting it. Remove your spark plugs, fill it with oil through the hole, start slowly rotating your engine backwards while topping it up........

There are dampners that thread into fuel rails (just was looking at it on my sons S2000) Would be pretty simple to drill and thread 2 into a fuel rail, one for the front bank and one for the rear bank between the reg return point on the rail.

Last time we tested the Bendix Ultimates, a female careful slow driver got 20000Km out of them in a BA Falcon doing city driving. After 20000Km the new rotors were all undersized, wheels went black within a day of driving everyday, braking for normal street driving was great but i cannot justify the expense of changing rotors and pads every 20000Km. They are just too aggressive on rotors. Changed the rotors, fitted EBC Red Stuff, zero dust now after the bed in phase, no more dust, no more rotor wear, 60000 Km later the same pads and rotors are still on the car, pads have about 40% left on them, rotors look 3000Km old, zero wear, no lips on them.

Just to add to this thread for Scotty.... On Saturday i was with Danny (Barrys mate/half brother) from JAK mototrsworks and we got talking about the new fuelab pump and pressure reg with the 1 wire connection as they just fitted it to a Supra. A Melb tuner mentioned they noted issues controlling fuel pressure bounce or stability with that pump/reg setup. I wonder if its the pump control being too aggressive with the large pump or that it needs a (or a few) dampner/s in the line. Just thought id bring it up to your attention as your always playing with fuel setups.....

If they have enough tension they shouldn't slip, tyre shine just lubes them up to stop the friction squealing, same way is used by car yards all around the place after washing the engine bay and getting belt noise. I have no idea how good the gatorback will be until i fit it but it was the belt recommended by science of speed, the manufacturers of the supercharger kit when using the highest boost setting with small pulleys, they mentioned all other brands tended to slip. They also mentioned they were very stretchy belts and id need to keep an eye on the belt tension so they dont get loose and start to slip because of it, once they slip they can get glazed and become a issue.

Have you tried a new belt? I usually spray tyre shine on noisy belts to shut them up. Im fitting a gator back belt next weekend, its was recommended by a supercharger kit manufacturer that im fitting as the only belt that does not slip on the smallest pulley, on highest boost applications, this supercharger kit puts about 50Hp of power drain through the belt. Gatorback belts have a tread like design on them, i just got mine in the other day and have never seen a design like that before. Apparently they are very stretchy/flexible belts.

Copper coat is a copper spray. Hylomar gasket spray is different sealant that's not made of copper. https://www.google.com.au/search?q=hylomar+copper+coat&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=dIDhVciPE8aMNunhuegJ#q=copper+coat+spray Ive used copper coat on a few engines, all had block deck orings and copper head gaskets, spray on, wait till tacky then install. The correct deck and head finish should not need any spray with a MLS head gasket.

Use the screw driver trick to the ear along the top of the cam cover and front cover. Also do it to your injectors and around the exhaust manifold (in case you have a seriously odd leak making the sound and heat closes the leak). Take out your coil packs and check to see if your spark plugs are tight.

You mean the small round can that the line runs through on the fuel pump assembly? If so its a fuel pulse damnper, its absorbs fuel pump and injector pulses from the fuel, think of it as taking out harmonic pressure spikes and smoothing out the line pressure. It sort of like those anti hammer devices you can fit to your home plumbing to stop the pipes banging. Ive read many of the better after market fuel pressure regs have this characteristic built into them. To find out if you need it, fit a fuel pressure gauge on the line and check to see if the pressure is bouncing by a few PSI...... Most commonly needed OEM on batch fire injectors and large Qty of injectors on 1 rail where you can get the pressure oscillating. Edit, i might add, i didnt know what they were used for till a few weeks ago when trying to work out my fuel system for our car.

Ive done my sons S2000 cam cover a few times in winkle finish, same results as above with the odd run down the side as per above. My way is a little different, i preheat the gas barbecue (with lid) and place the item inside it to heat the paint. Looking back your way may have been simpler.......might test it next time i do it.

Its got to be perfectly round if using good clamps with a bead all the way around it to stop the hose slipping off. Get rid of those worn drive clamps too and get some proper clamps. Im surprised that nismo would produce a piping kit that's out of round, the casting looks pretty off center and average, the bead does not go all the way around.

Ripps specialize in RB30's. The RB30 is known for that harmonics issue and ive discussed it with a few well known RB30 builders, the consensus is that its at over 8000 rpm at various points of the rpm scale at varying levels. For example a engine may have a large one at 8200, a little one at 8500, another large one at 8800, a small one at 8950 etc..... Point being is if you rev through it, its not a issue as your not sitting on it, you transition through it, you just dont want to be holding it at a particular high rpm where its at as it will want to tear its self apart.

Could even be a bad connection or earth causing the faulty readings. Grab radiator hose, feel the heat, grab oil filter, it shouldn't be double the temp.....(backyarders way and it should be pretty obvious)

Judging by those pics, that looks like enough oil in there to be causing your smoke issues. Did you pull the cooler out to drain it? De-grease the inside?

Exactly what im doing with my R32 factory pump assembly, its the easy way to get bigger lines happening. Terminals can be added too to get rid of the flimsy thin factory wires and plug if going bigger pump, seen a few of those melt through the years.

Have you checked if the heads straight with a straight edge and feeler gauge? Better do so, you wouldn't want to be bolting on a warped head.

$1650 at Just Jap and in stock.

Restrictor is OK lower than the deck, im running a 1.1mm on most performance builds. I also get the hot wash, then go through all the oil passages with rifle cleaners and pull more gunk out, you would be surprised what a stiff brush can release that the wash didnt in those small hard to get to passages. Ring end gaps are related back to the bore width, fuel and boost you will be running, did the paper work explain that? Ring manufacturers explain that in all the ring packages ive used. 0.18mm to .35mm is a huge variation, double check your paper work from the ring supplier, they know whats best for their rings, follow what they say, quite often is X amount per bore inch of diameter. Different manufacturers and materials have different expansion rates. Remember mains clearances are a little bigger than big end clearances, again X amount of clearance per inch of crank journal width.

Have you considered a RB30 bottom end? GT-RS would be OK with the 3.0, better again with a single. I wouldn't consider a 2.8 over a forged 3.0......but hey that's just me.

You can playdoe the ports on a flow bench to test. If happy weld away, ive seen people use JB Weld too. Personally i wouldnt use JB weld, on the exhaust ports due to temps and on intakes, guess where it goes? If your going to play after finding what you want with clay, get the ports welded.....

techno

When cleaning the block, knock out the front and rear oil block bungs and use a rifle cleaner kit with the long rods and a variety of stiff brushes in different diameters, be careful as the brass brushes can and will lose hair and can leave bits of brass behind. Run a self tapping screw into your blocks oil restrictor, put a old adjustable wrench under the screw head and knock out the old oil restrictor, for the rear plug drill a small hole and do the same. You would be surprised how much junk sits behind the factory oil resrictor, id never just knock a smaller one like Tomie advises over the old one if rebuilding a engine, especially a engine that may have spun a bearing previously.

Spray something on the belts, tyre shine, WD40, whatever.....most car yards use tyre shine as its at hand, if it comes back, use a bit more, carefully try to apply it while the engine is running so it spreads evenly, try not to get caught in a belt, if your not comfortable, do it with the engine off. Not something to worry about if your belts are tensioned correctly, cleaning the engine bay does not ruin your original belts, but check to see if they are cracked or damaged in case you should just replace them. One thing that can be damaged with washing engine bays is idler pulley bearings, water can get into them and then they get noisy, its happened to me many times on different models of cars.