GTRPSI

RDA908.... http://stores.ebay.com.au/performancecarpartsonline/_i.html?_nkw=rda908&submit=Search&LH_TitleDesc=1&_sid=964773464 DR908.... http://stores.ebay.com.au/performancecarpartsonline/_i.html?_nkw=DR908&submit=Search&LH_TitleDesc=1&_sid=964773464

Protex is currently out of stock of DR12834 in Melbourne and Sydney...... I just checked as i have a account with them. What ive told my customers when they have been stuck is to buy a pair of RDA RDA908 or Protex DR908, take them to a machine shop and get them turned down from 297mm to 266mm diameter. Then machine 2 mm off the thickness, the 908's are 18mm thick new and what you need is 16mm thickness. Good luck with it.

Thats very interesting Scotty, never knew it existed, looks very promising. Back to traditional fuel surge tanks and the fuelab clip, the air issue certainly opened my eyes and had me rethink surge tank designs. (and your mat discovery brings out feed design improvements) Most surge tanks have the main pump feed outlet/s down the bottom, on the very top a return to the feed tank and a little down from the top the return line from the fuel pressure reg and tank feed input. I was thinking to maybe get something else made up.... A tall cylinder, all inlets one one side entering at 45 degrees, pump outlet/s right opposite also at 45 degrees. The idea being that anything entering all comes from one side of the cylinder to get the fuel rotating in the cylinder, in effect creating a vortex, much like those swirl pot air/oil separators. Main fuel pump feed at the very bottom with its fitting facing the on coming fuel swirl, fuel reg return also at the bottom going into the direction of swirl (and helping it swirl), tank feed nearer to the top in the direction of the swirl (again helping swirl) and only the top fitting in the center top as the tank return. My thinking is it should reduce bubbles to a minimum in the surge tank. Most surge tank designs ive seen have the fuel pressure reg return line and tank feed pretty high up on them, fittings are all bang smack in the middle not helping to get a swirl happening. In tank return would need to be run and hose clamped to the floor to reduce bubbles into the in tank feed pump, which in turn would reduce surge tank bubbles. What are your thoughts on this without getting into E85 compatible in tank foams? Or an i just being a little (or very) anal about it?

When i asked the Hwy patrol mate, it was a week before the new scheme was starting, i was looking to jump on the bandwagon and take advantage of the old system slackness. Even he personally had a car on club rego (old system), in his case he only took it out a few times a year so he took advantage of the cheap rego. He told me the new system changes not much in their eyes last i spoke to him (lately), its still club rego or a mod plate, either way its a plate that they see as "not normal", like waving a red flag at a bull, or baiting a shark. I always have a laugh when he comes over, GTR is parked in the corner, PC Desk top screen is of a identical looking GTR launching at the drags, last time he was over he had this look like he was going to pull out his gun and start firing at the PC monitor. He tells me they have one or two particular Hwy patrol officers at their branch who specialize in Skylines, they went out of their way to know them like the back of their hands, can spot a mod from a mile away. (so he says) One thing for sure is they certainly don't like them, especially in young hands.

10psi per 1000 RPM is what your looking for in pressure. The spring/washer setup will depend on clearances and oil weight run. (and temps reached) So if you have a 9000 RPM redline, you want 90PSI (or a bit more)

Make sure you get it done if your going club reg. I have a Hwy patrol mate/regular customer who talked me out of getting club rego. Apparently their squad pick on them and view it as a reason to pull it over and go over it, looking for something out of place due to club regos being abused by some with modded cars. He told me to leave mine on normal rego as they had less reason to suspect something, as long as it looks in line from the outside they wont have a reason to pick on it if im driving normally.

Wipe, start test and watch. Quite often the leak can come from around the cam cap parting line too. When and if ordering new cam seals, they should be the same part as the oil pump seals, they are all the same. Just a quick note, the gasket under your cam cover looks broken in the pic just where it passes over the cap. You should always use a bit of silicon in the corners and over the top of the cap on the gasket as they are known areas that are difficult to seal and leak.

If your worried about the FPR regulator not closing to build pressure, a set of vice grips locked on the return hose should do the trick for testing.

Just found this interesting clip on the Fuelab 42402 pumps with the 52902 electronic regulators, nice to see a integrated package now, just set the base fuel pressure and walk away, no fiddling with fuel pump controllers or ECU, no more hot fuel for systems without a pump controller.

Check your inter-cooler piping for oil, especially at the lowest point. We had exactly the same issue on a R32 GTR after a track day, found the blowby oil got into the intake piping when we pulled the intercooler off, every time we got the revs up hard and onto boost it was smoking. Cleaned out the oil, problem went away, then fitted a catch can to stop it happening again, it never returned.

Yep Scotty is a great help when it come to E85, thank god we have a resident E85 Guru to sort out our issues. Now where is he so he can remind us of never having any problems on it? (Jabs him in the ribs)

You would need to use a treatment to dissolve it and then flush out all the crap left behind if the engine is in a car. Most engines have it to some degree or another.... And dont forget if its in a car the radiator is surely blocked. If its a engine thats out of the car and your rebuilding it, get the block hot tanked and new welsh plugs fitted, its nothing to worry about as it will all be removed.

smelled

Have a pump fail, lean out the engine......whats the engine going to cost you and whats the pump worth again? Sell the pumps, recoup some money, buy walbro.

I thought the bosch motorsport pumps were prone to early failure with E85. Why not use the Walbro E85 460?

If your running a surge tank at 400Kw, the factory tank fittings and lines to the surge tank should be fine as its not pressurized feeding the surge tank.

Yes all the turbo drains are above oil level. R33 and R34 cranks are all long nose. Nitto makes a good oil pump, i went tomie because its externally adjustable. If you need to adjust the oil pressure with the Nitto pump, its a engine out job, the tomie one you just remove a plug on the outside of the pump and add or remove shims.

How many mm did you drill out your block oil returns to? No pics you say, plenty of pics.....ive got these pics in a few threads for RB30's. I even did my own annular groves in the RB30 block to get oiling under the bearing seats like on RB26's.

Our R32 GTR had lost power before we pulled it off the road for a new engine build. The other night i was dropping the exhaust system to remove the rear heat shields so i could drill holes to bolt a battery box down in the boot area. Center muffler was collapsed, it was a 3.5" system, clogged down to a 2" (or less) system.......never would have guessed it without looking.

External oil drain (breather on rear) is the out of date way, people have stopped doing this. Its about equalizing sump and cam cover pressures so the oil can flow back down, so a breather hose from above the oil level of the sump to the cam covers is one way, another way is to simply weld some fittings above the oil line on the sump and vent blowby straight out to a catch can. Enlarge the oil drains in both the head and block. Fit oil restictor to the block. Use a long nose drive collar for maximum oil pump engagement, use a good aftermarket pump or at least a stock pump with gears. Or better still, read the oil control thread, first few pages and maybe the last 10-20.

Look at the 2 links below... http://www.aeu86.org/forum/showthread.php?pid=151308 https://www.google.com.au/search?q=low+fuel+light+thermistor&biw=1920&bih=920&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CCQQsARqFQoTCMC-1_vsoMcCFYfNgAodMoEMUQ You would simply need to mount it with a hose clamp to the height you want it at, somewhere along the cradle shaft into the surge tank on on a pump if its in there.

Google "low fuel annunciator", its the same thing as used on aircraft. Also been looking into it for my surge tank setup. My way of thinking was to wire it into the Haltec as a engine safe guard, should react faster than you pulling off the throttle, that is if you see the light of course..... Many factory fuel pump cradles have a separate low fuel sensor fitted, i have not had time to work out which one id be using yet.

What are your thoughts on boot mounting that reg? Im wondering if i could be bothered running a boost line to the boot, sounds like its more trouble than its worth to clear up some engine bay space. Then again you need to run wires there anyway......maybe same same.....then again if the boost reference line gets pinched...... Ah, hang on, just realized, ive go the old fuel line feed or return that could be used to run vacuum/boost to the boot. Need to think this over a bit.....

Oh i didn't know that, i thought it was a whole build.....sorry, my misunderstanding.....

@ Scotty, thoughts on the Fuelab Prodigy 42402? http://fuelab.com/products/race/prodigy-fuel-pumps/item/42402_prodigy_fuel_pump_high_power_efi_in_line/ Have you seen the new Fuelab 52902 electronic fuel pressure regulators? http://fuelab.com/products/performance/fuel-pressure-regulators/529-series-electronic-fuel-pressure-regulators/item/52902_electronic_fuel_pressure_regulator/ Im at fuel system stage, may need to call for advice man........