GTRPSI

Can hardly blame them for waiting on parts then....... How long ago did they start on the engine?

Will do, i should be there on Tuesday around midday for a social visit...... Once he gets into it, (if hes not being disturbed) its a few days work to assemble properly while checking bearing clearances and setting ring end gaps, he likes to be left alone so he can focus and do a good job.

Which ones yours? Im going there next week to shit stir him about something, i can poke him in the ribs about it. Yours wouldn't happen to be the RB26 which was recently rebuilt by another workshop and had a bottom end failure? If it wasn't, you should ask him to show you the mess he found when he opened it up.....its a really scary thing to look at.

Edge Motorworks. Lots of GTR's being serviced, repaired or modded, engines built etc...

Just remember there are 2 open holes and a third one that the plug goes into. One big one that the thermostat outside sits in with the casing over it held down by the 3 thermostat cover bolts. One that the thermostat end rear/base sits over which is left open and is slightly bigger (by only a few mm) than the welsh plug under it. Then the third hole which is the deepest and smallest, that one gets the welsh plug.....

Your looking to see if this plug was put back in, its at the top center of the crappy pic i took, way down under the thermostat, behind in a second casting.

Ok this might sound really, really stupid but its why i asked if its been freshly rebuilt. Pull your thermostat back out, get a mirror and torch and under the thermostat they should have replaced (if they pulled out all your welsh plugs) a small welsh plug inside the block, its sits in the block under the thermostat, from memory its around 20mm big (guessing). There is a very real possibility that they may have knocked them all out to clean the block and forgotten there was one in there, its easy to miss for someone who does not know RB's or got the apprentice to knock them all in. Yeah i know its a pain in the butt, but you never know......

Was the engine recently rebuilt and it started from the moment the new engine was in?

Hell, id better get some of those Genuine Brembo rotors in from my supplier and start selling them for $800 a pair new, im going to make a absolute killing on them.

Ive seen clutch fans fail where temps use to be all over the place, running it at 100 on a freeway will provide a steady flow of air to rule out the fan. If it continues to go up and down its not the fan (unless some rubbish has blocked the radiators air flow)

What is the difference between the VL and R31 block where the tensioner goes on, on the front face? Do they both have oil and water feeds drilled and taped on the hot side of the engine block?

What does it do when the car is cruising at a steady 100? If its not going up and down while holding a steady high speed, it may be the clutch fan........sometimes they dont lock on till the temp gets too high, when on they pull the heat from the rad dropping temps. A steady 100Kph should see a good natural air flow ruling it out, if it continues to climb and fall its not the issue. Next step is like previously mentioned, check for air in head by bleeding.

Run out of injectors and pump? Or a really conservative tune.....

Cant be done unless you fit a VL engine to tut tut tute

Waiting to see what Lumley will bill me this year, its due to come in the mail very shortly. GTR and S2000 with them for years now but the S2000 is currently at a panel shop after someone tried to break into it while it was parked at the casino. Idiots cut the roof to open a door (and i just fitted a new roof a few months earlier), dented the door trying to climb over and in to get to the door handle, scratched one side, busted the steering lock and made a mess of the alarm wiring, police said a Convertible Audi was also broken into that night in the same carpark and way. If i see a marked increase the others may be getting a call. Will also point out Lumley was a bit difficult to get a assessor out and process the claim too, took quite a few calls from us and the panel shop to get things happening. Was not impressed at the time, hopefully the next bill wont be higher to make it worth the trouble i went through.......

Checks calendar for school holiday dates......

Sound like its cranking, did you try it for longer? With jumping leads for a bit of extra kick? Got spark? Can you hear the fuel pump? If no spark, head straight of the CAS and try another one or igniter module plug on the rear of the coil pack cover.

Ill get some pics and better still measurements of my Drag head tonight or tomorrow to share, ive only completed the exhaust ports to satisfaction, inlets are partially roughed out, still studying them and not enough hours in the day. Measurements might be better at certain points in the ports so you can see how far it can be taken...remember the exhaust ports are the major restriction, inlets dont need that much work. My exhaust port shape was based on carefully measuring 2 heads i was granted access to, one was made for a 1200Hp RB build by a local porter, the other was a Sydney port job for a all out drag engine that was also at the workshop. Ive got their inlet specs, however im yet to overlay what they did and study them properly. Dont ask me how many hours went into the exhaust ports....... And dont forget, outright drag specs wont work well on the street as flow velocity will be low, however its a indication of how much room there is to work with safely. Edit; to answer your port finish question, leave the intakes rough, 80 to 120 grit to help atomize the fuel, exhausts can be the same for the street, ive gone for polished exhaust ports, not needed on a street engine though as they will be carbon coated quickly.

Common issue is with the relay. Most people rewire in a external relay to bypass the factory one so check if the relay is getting power from the switch first. If you see power at the relay plug when you turn the lights on its the relay, if you dont its most likely the switch.

The lower bracket and Tomei pump issue, no room to machine the bracket out to fit over the pump? Or does the sensor itself still hit the added oil relief casting on the Tomei pumps regardless of what you do to the bracket its mounted on?

Years ago my son got a Just Jap cooler for our GTR in 100mm, the biggest issue we had back then was the side brackets had to be cut, repositioned and welded which was a unseen (by him) cost, unsure if the current ones have this done correctly. (That was for the R32 GTR cooling Pro coolers) Front bar on the R32 needed to be cut out about 20 or so mm to fit it back on. In our case the OEM cooler was simply tired looking but flowed more than enough for what he had, our thoughts back then was that being an extra inch thicker it wouldn't add restriction but we never assumed it would improve over the OEM R32 GTR cooler, the OEM ones are known to be used on over 400Kw builds without issue. As nismoid mentioned, its no big deal to add the bungs and take some measurements so you have some facts at hand when playing around with setup.

I know someone with one and they are a absolute work of art, very nicely made. I did discuss getting one with a workshop that deals with Hypertune and they recommended me the 90mm over the 105 to help control idle, they were saying the 105 were a little too hard to get right for a street strip combo from their experience, with 105 being fine on a dedicated drag car. Having said all that (after being offered one for cost price as they are mates of ours) we are staying with a genuine Greedy one with ITB's, no issues with them at power levels and well over what you are chasing. What i would be more concerned with is running EGT probes in each exhaust port to ensure no leaning out of 5 and 6 regardless of the intake manifold being used. 450-500Kw level is no where near beyond a stock manifold, people get away from the stocky to help minimize leaning 5 and 6 with better intake flow distribution.

Thats right, 7 drive and 12 driven plates. Remove driven and change to drive so you have a drive driven drive driven combo. Use the link back to cusco diffs in the other thread to understand how to increase lockup.

Head bolts are tightened down from the middle outwards. Id be starting from the middle and working my way outwards like the OEM tightening sequence to keep to this method. Just like when you go through the steps as you torque up the bolts.

Just thought id throw this in, below is the video of the Cosworth engine harmonics failure, dis-assembly and prognosis that i mentioned. The 15 min mark is when they held it at the harmonic sweet spot on the dyno, 16min mark it failed, from there they tore it down and at the 25 min mark they say "incurable vibration at the crankshaft" No amount of balancing will help it once the engine design has a inherit harmonics issue......