GTRPSI

Springs are supposed to have a installed seat pressure. Has anyone checked the Jap brands at seat VS the others at seat? Most people simply fit them without looking/thinking twice. You supposed to know your free length which varies when reseating valves then check it before fitting to each valve individually, its part of blue printing the head. Dont forget to check for coil bind depending on the lift and reinstalled height. To break a spring may point to a scratch on one leading to a fatigue crack or over rev or a softened spring. Now that leads me to question if the Jap springs are good when new but may be softening with repeated heat cycles.....food for thought.....

You dont remove the collar to fix it, leave it on the crank as is, get them to linish it down to the correct size, its the same procedure as linishing a crank. Make sure they also mic up the flat sections and take care of them too while its out. Dont forget to tape up all the oil feed holes before doing anything to stop dirt getting in, will save you having to remove the grub screws and going back through the oil channels with a rifle cleaner. Make sure you clean the crank thoroughly before putting it back in.

Lots of lolz reading that one. Maybe on its first Launch Daz will twist the chassis.

How much is it hitting by Daz? On the Twin turbo badge or cover? If its just a bee's dick, shove some washers under the strut plate. You can also cut off the twin turbo badge. Your other option is not to run one......

It's a common issue on high output rb,s. Most people go around the outside of the seat on the head with a center punch to expand the hole to stake the plug in after its fitted. My way of avoiding it is to weld it shut with a alloy bung.

Funny enough exactly the same happened to my current build, Nitto collar and Tomie pump. We had a nitto collar fitted, my machinist has fitted many collars in the past for others and we found out just like you after the bottom end was assembled that the collar was too big once we went to slide the pump on. Dont muck around, its NOT a big job to get the bottom end dissembled and crank back out and get it machined back to size, it wont throw out your balancing. I blamed it on the machinist not taking enough off the crank so the collar sat too high once it cooled down, however i could be wrong as i didn't mic up the outside of the Nitto collar before fitment to prove to myself for sure that it was not already too big. Stay with the Tomie pump, its the only one made with external pressure adjustment, all the others cannot provide you with that, for that i rank it as the best internal pump you can run. Also make sure you provide enough clearance for the oil pump collar to oil pump, the crank nose will flex and walk when pushing HP so make sure there is room to move, also if you have had the block mains tunnel honed the crank will sit a whisker deeper into the block. Remember that the oil pump is positioned and centered on pins on the block.......

Sounds like a bit of a greek salad. Your going to the trouble of selecting a 3.4L for a drag build and then talking about limiting it with the head and turbo. For drag, RPMs can help with the power up top, turbo needs to run up there and not be restrictive in housing. Big lift cams and big turbo housing can get you some serious MPH but will sacrifice streetability. The other thing is rod stroke ratio and piston speeds if your going to rev a 3.4L hard. Get yourself a RB30, forget about stroking it and go from there.......your not in the zone for a stroker. 25/30, forged bottom end, bit of head work, right cams and turbo and your there without the stroker expense, if it blows its not so much of a money pit and cheap to rebuild/replace.

They are long gone years ago, probably on some old PC i had.....

My understanding is the sensor measures whats petrol and convert it back to whats left as E85. So if it reads 30% petrol content it displays that as E70 (converts it over as the balance being ethanol) And having said that, they can be tricked and are therefore highly inaccurate in situations where the fuel may be contaminated with water, it will read crazy high meth content with some water contamination, and methanol tends to absorb water easily so in real life its highly possible. There are many clips online where ethanol content sensors are tested, water added, watch the results, scary stuff considering that servo pump fuel tanks are vented to atmosphere. Wouldn't you love your flex tune to advance the timing while you got a bad batch of water contaminated E85 after running on 98? We had that SAU E85 night a Sabdinnies last year, was a real eye opener, add a bit of 98 to E85 and watch the E85 content drop dramatically, add just a little water to E60 and watch it become E100......scary shit.

Depends on what you intend to do, there is no 1 rod or piston that's best for all situations everything is a compromise in certain directions. Pistons can vary depending on what the build is, you wont build a high revving drag engine with the heaviest pistons with long skirts and you wont get far building a daily or long distance race engine with the lightest short skirt pistons. Same deal on the rods, pins, rings etc. Many people overlook the design aspect of parts and just see a brand name, put focus on the build purpose and then look at a piston or rod design to suit the application. Basics like assembly weight which you want to keep low in high revving applications or highish to allow longevity through support and material strength for longer lasting lower RPM builds as some other basics to consider. Its like comparing a Mahle and JE piston, 2 totally different designs from many points of view.

Yeah just kick it man, wait for the engine to be built, your other business priorities come first, till its ready who knows what the latest and results are going to be. Was showing it to Stefan the other night as he is about to order some other stuff from the US for his S2000 and was going to order the turbo he wanted at the same time, now he says what you just said, leave it for last. (Finally he is listening) And im currently working hard on convincing him NOT to go precision. (Long story, we will talk about it next time we catch up)

Hey Sedat was going to call you the other day. Have you seen this? PT7675 Gen 2 about to be released? http://www.maperformance.com/precision-turbo-gen2-pt7675-cea-turbocharger.html Note the list of new turbos on the bottom. Told you to hold back and wait.......lots of new goodies being released.

i have a full set of ebc red stuff pads that have been used for 2000kms

SOLD!!!!!!!!!

Yes crank out job. Also if you go into the biger pumps like the tomie, you need to machine/grind part of the RB30 block for it to fit on flush as the larger rear housing on the pump interferes with the block.

i have both carbon and fibreglass JUN front lips if you get stuck?

been offered $950 for it twice now so dont know what you're trying to say^^^ bump.

The caps are all tied together by the girdle so cap walking is not that much of a issue on RB engines. Lets also not forget that to set the thrust bearing face, we need to be able to walk the center cap, when they are tied, they all will walk to set it. If the caps were individual id say pinning would be needed. Hollow centering caps like on the rods are not designed for side loads, they are for accurate positioning of the cap for tightening, neither would hollow pins be any good as they are weak for side loads, for accurate firm centering you would need tapered solid pins. To do it is not hard, you can buy the tapered pins in long lengths and cut them to the tapered section width you need, the reamers are available from engineer supplies as are the pins (not cheap i might add) The issue is there is not much room/meat in the block or girdle to place a pin without weakening both. I looked into it as ive done the solid tapered pin mod to 265 Hemi engines mains in the past. I even pinned in the big end bearings into the rods on 265's in the same way in the past to combat bearings spinning from rod bolt stretch.

I have both, a FG XR6T ute and GTR. For a daily the FG is perfect, still under factory warranty so im limited in what i can do for now, Direct injection LPG gave it another 10 rwkw and $30 LPG gives me 420Km in a large vehicle with some power. The Autos are much quicker than the manual models. With a stall launch with TC on it has no issues with VF HSV's up to around 80, the FG having the smaller turbos run out of puff compared to the BA/BF models. GTR cannot be daily driven without drawing unwanted attention. GTR needs small womens hands to work in the engine bay, parts are expensive and take time to get, FG parts are at every corner shop and cheap. Fords warranty program is not even worth wiping your arse with.......consumer affairs has told me they have had many dealing with them. And stay away from the Bayfords group, a Ford head office worker who i know told me they are on top of a watch list at Ford head office, they are well known to drag warranty claims out and not honor them with excuses. Also Coburg Bayfords head mechanic is a seriously big drop kick. When this guy first looked under the rear of my ute he mentioned my issue may be with my axle CV, then he got up looking white and said "hang on this things got a solid axle"....and this guys in charge of servicing my car...... I could go on about some of the crap thats come out of this guys mouth, some seriously funny shit. If you do by a Ford, they are great and cheap to run/fix, just dont count on a decent warranty support. So much easier to pull power from, Stock turbo engine with just a cooler, piping, valve springs, pump and injectors has no issue seeing 340Kw at the rears, throw E85 in and 400Kw, upgrade the turbo and the skys the limit (as is the trannies input shaft) Best daily sleepers money can buy, the VLT of tomorrow.

A water meth kit is not expensive (compared to a E85 conversion), there are meth kits available with fail safes to protect you, water meth injection concentation is usually around the 1/11 mark compared to petrol when working out the correct jetting and its been used in high powered applications for a lot longer than most people realize, it was the bees knees before E85 became a pump fuel. There is of course the option of mixing your own jungle juice to increase octane, really comes down to your access to toluene and such, however its not exactly cheap, healthy and a lot of mucking around every time you want to fill.

Yep seperate what your applying to. Threads need lock to hold, under the heads to slide the torque up right. 2 Seperate areas, dont apply both to the same section so they dont mix, its simple.

If your worried about knock, go water/meth, its been used for decades when poor fuel is being used. I wouldnt convert to E85 just for because i had poor octane at hand if the boost pressures used were lowish. In the next month or so we are supercharging our S2000, not dropping comp but forcing 12psi in with 50/50 water meth into a stock NA engine, been done by heaps of others in the same boat, drops intake temps and increased knock protection, good torque increases with it too.

slightly negotiable

MAKE A OFFER!!!

That guide was written by me, pictures are long gone (dont know what happened there) but it fixed it and its still working fine today (years later) Dont be afraid if you do clean off the coating, its no big deal to fix, more a frustration hoping you get it right as you cant test it till its all back together again.