GTRPSI

Yeah, was in the shit i gave you to pass onto him, im more worried that he may have overlooked it between all the info so i thought id mention it for you to remind him. From 2 new Tomie pumps ive had, both had 1 or 2 loose screws (not tightened like the others) and 2-3 screws without loctite from the factory. Loose screws = coverplate leaks oil pressure......bye bye engine.....very important to check.

LOL, nice. Dont forget to hand it to Brendan so he can machine it and the RB30 block to make it fit, and re loctite all the phillips heads screws on the backing plate.

She be fine, those cracks will just buff out.

Yeah i sort of made my own sort of mix and match deal on my 26/30. Welded a hioctane 9lt sump extension with trap doors to the factory sump. Then made my own version of the Tomie sump baffle cover with a few tricks added out of sheet metal to aid oil return to the pickup and to stop oil getting out under high G force. Then modded the RB30 crank girdle to take the RB26 windage trays. Also added a oil scrapper to remove oil off the crank and help it down to the sump. Most sump extensions can be bought

Mine runs the oil heat exchanger. (the smaller of the 2 outlets on the fitting bolted to the block)

What sort of head work was done to it? Ported heavily, quench pads removed etc? E85? Fantastic result, must be a friggin handful to drive. Jem are pretty good at what they do.

Is it bogging down all the time or sometimes? Or does it bog down on launch and once it picks up again there are wheel spin issues due to power? Did you end up putting positive camber in the rear and watching the car to see if it squats enough to take out all the camber on launch?

PM sent, i also have the front grill i can throw in for no extra cost.

Solution is simple, do what most to when they have no idea, pay a professional to do it for you. All you need is money. If no money, then borrow from a bank, if that fails, rob bank or sell arse or sell drugs to get money. If that fails, sell car.

will part trade for aftermarket parts of interest plus cash my way

Here.....does NOT creat additional lift, does create a boundry layer with benifits, less wake from a thinner wake resulting in less drag from the pull of turbulance from behind....... Tested on a car with results... http://www.discovery.com/tv-shows/mythbusters/videos/dimpled-car-minimyth/ Better explenation of the golf ball theory... http://www.aerospaceweb.org/question/aerodynamics/q0215.shtml

Deshouding the valves eats into the squish zone reducing the area to some degree and helping. While on the subject of combustion chamber designs.....Google "Singh Grooves", interesting reading towards reducting issues on vehicles runing a lot of squish to piston clearance should you do that. While your at it, if your in the mood to do your head in a little, read up on dimpled combustion chambers and intakes. Principal works like the dimples on a golf ball, less air drag when in flight.

Dogbox also has the billet sandwich plate made by greddy (grex) Ratios; 1st: 2.782 2nd: 1.938 3rd: 1.506 4th: 1.178 5th: 0.918 6th: 0.777 rev: 3.28

This is going to be one of those threads again....(not in a bad way though) There are pros and cons, 98, E85, low boost or high boost?. To take both squish zones out you will need a custom piston, theres a mob in the US who CNC the heads and remove the pads and supply specially designed pistons that work to correctly return compression. But lets throw a spanner in the works and say that a flat top piston would be better for the burn, but wouldnt be good with the squish removed if you want higher compression. The biggest negative with squish areas remaining is detonation, everyones seen quish zones with tell tale marks and shits themselves, taking them out. Most of ths is due to secondary combustion, that is enough room was left there for combustion to take effect. Top engine builders work a little differently, and aim to reduce the piston to squish zone gap down to zero at full song, that is, to have the head and piston "just" kiss at full stretch of all components. Generally speaking the aim is for "around" 40 thou (1mm) Quench to piston deck clearance, this at full song should close to virtually "Zero" clearance with forged rods with ARP fasteners at around the 9K+ RPM mark (also allowing for piston rock at ATDC). No gap, no detonation, quench in, maximum sonic speed pulse of the mixture while maintaining maximum compression (without resorting to one of pistons) If i was building 98 low boost, id leave them both there, 98 high power id take out one side, 98 full race id take them both out, by the nature of 98 octane its a bitch when boost starts getting cranked up. E85 is a total different animal. We are aiming for a "easy" limited to 650 Kw at all 4 on mildish boost levels with E85 on a RB26/30, both quenches will remain, but will not look like the standard quech zones as made by the factory, both will be modified in shape and remain in place. Look at some Cosworth turbo era heads, champ car heads, look at the amount of quench left on them. We will only be touching the Quench pads to deshroud the valves to assist maximum breathing. Have a look around here...you should know what to research from there.... http://www.lolachampcar.com/Cosworth%20XB.htm

For sale is my freshly refurbished trust/ quafie Dogbox. This is a 6 speed straight cut gearset in a stock Gtr casing. H pattern manual. You will need to supply your own transfer case and shifter. Many people have held big power with these gearboxes and they are a great option if you keep blowing stock boxes. The gearset can be taken out of the casing and installed into a rb25 casing if you wish to run it for a rwd setup. I am only selling this gearbox because I am purchasing a hollinger. Please call or sms me on 0422216160 if you have any further questions. No payment plans, no PayPal. Just cash in hand or bank transfer if i have to send interstate. $6,500 - slightly negotiable.

Hey mate i have a brand new pair of JUN style wing extensions in carbon. sms me on 0422216160 if interested.

For paper gaskets i only use a coating of Avation gasket sealer, the non hardening one like permatex. I only use silicon where no gaskets are used. I dont use any sealants on exhaust manifold and exhaust flanges, just fresh gaskets.

Yep, the air filters were a oil bath design. My job was to empty and wipe the inside of it, at the begining i was too small to climb up to get to it so my old man use to get it out for me. Had to wait a few years to be a bit taller to do it myself, then i could refill it with oil also while standing on the front bar.

Now ya talking. Or crinkle paint the covers in a contrasting color and polish the fins, Crinkle black with ploished fins use to be the rage back in the day however the engine color as you suggested would look good and more with the times too. Edit; DO NOT forget these while your there.... http://www.speco.com.au/accvalvecover.html Then she will really be old school.

Hell you just reminded me when the old man taught me to service the air filter on a grey motor. So im going to throw up a challenge...is anyone old enough here to remember how it was done? No Googling either! Was quite a shock to see what more modern cars ran to clean the air. (Hint) Shit, if no one knows im seriously going to officially be the old fart around here.....

So are you going to paint the rocker cover and sand back the raised parts for clean alloy contrast? Do it. (we all use to, looked tough)

Have you seen its dyno chart stuck up on the cabinet near the rear entrance to the counter? Much too much traction issues on the dyno. Yes very few of them are driven on the street regularly, most are wrapped in cotton wool and only brought out for special occasions.....then they are pushed hard and packed away for the next occasion. The latest 3.2L Nitto builds owner just bought another GTR stocky as his daily the other day. Dont plan on producing 1000Hp and keeping the engine sharp by driving it daily and clocking up 100,000Km thinking it will be like the day it was built, performance engines in that power range dont work that way.

Just a word of warning after what happened to me once after a diff conversion in a LJ Coupe....... Had a mate that i did a 265 to 904 torque flight conversion for in his LJ Coupe, usual stuff, high stall, manual shift kit, high lift solid cam, yella terra roller rockers, triple side drafts, etc and he brought it over for me to do the final tune after the run in period. When i thought id had it tuned i took it for a drive out on the main road with my mate, nailed it, she launched hard, took off like crazy, looked down at the speedo after a few seconds and she was almost off the clock and just kept pulling hard. Finally went to brake to wash off some serious speed and the rear locked up, on off, on off again fighting the rear wanting to swap sides with the front. Eventually we stopped with fresh GT stripes in our jocks. He put a 9" with drums conversion in the rear and didnt tell me, he also didnt know about a little thing called brake bias and balance and never thought or tried to test it before heading over to my place. The drums and cylinders provided with the 9" put too much rear brake for the light LJ coupe. Be careful, watch for it, you have been warned......

Oil pools in the head because blow by is going up while oil is trying to return, the oil cannot get back down again. The oil return was never a return, it was another channel for blowby to go up and equalize crankcase and head pressure. You may as well have run a line to the top of the cam covers and achived the same results. Now people simply vent the crankcase pressure straight out of the bottom end into a catch can to avoid it trying to go up into the head. Read the last 10-12 pages of the oil control thread..... Dont forget to run a smaller than standard block restrictor. Info is in the first page or 2 of the oil control thread.

Key point when your in pieces is to fit a long nose oil pump drive collar, get a good oil pump, deepen the sump to increase capacity as much as possible and extend the oil pickup tube. The rest looks about right. I also cannot comment on the turbos..... Rear oil drainback is not needed any more, these days people are just putting breathers above the oil level in the sump and venting it to a catch can.