GTRPSI

Set them to zero and ask the tuner to perform 3 tests. One at Zero, one 4 degrees advanced and one at 4 degrees retarded from Zero. Then look at the graphs and take it from there. Advancing the cams tends to build bottom end, retarding them shifts the whole graph to higher RPM. See what works in your favor.

At idle, the accumlator will drain, anything under 55psi and it will feed into your engine and then go to the sump. Once the revs pick up and oil pressure rises to over 55 it will refill the accumulator. Point being its looking to protect the engine when oil pressure drops below 55 psi, regardless of RPM. So dont forget to overfill your oil as what needs to fill the accumulator will get pulled out of the sump and drop your oil level when your over 55 psi. Many people dont realize that part......

Either 35 to 40 or 55 to 60 depending on where you want it to kick in. The idea is you are selecting the discharge point or trigger point. It will fill itself at oil pressures above the selected valve and discharge into your oiling system at pressures below the selected valve. So say your doing track work at high RPM, you have a healthy oil pressure and need a highish oil pressure to be maintained, you select the 55 to 60 PSI valve. Just normal street driving on a built engine, go 35 to 40 as your protecting the 3000-4000 RPM band (10 Psi per 1000Rpm oil pressure rule) A stock engine kept at low reves, go the smallest pressure, something like a FG Turbo that does 2500 RPM while driving around town (not thrashed) would be best at that setting. Whichever value you select, remember it will not refill the accumulator till your normal pressure returns till over the selected value so no refilling until there is excess oil pressure avaliable again for the engine to pump back into it. Edit; just to make things a little clearer, a 20-25 valve on a high RPM engine is a little pointless as your spinning at say 6000+ RPM, you need highish oil pressure protection and the valve kicks in at 20-25 PSI, at which time its not enough oil pressure anyway. Just as a 55-60 valve would be on a low RPM engine, at say 2500 PRM you may only have 30 PSI genrated by your engine, the accumulators valve would always be open and the unit would be constantly draining itself as its seeing low oil pressure constanly, it would refill till you reved it to build up pressure and straight away redrain itself at normal lowish oil pressure driving speeds. My choice would be the 55-60 when racing, 35-40 for a built engine on the street, 25-30 for a stock motor thats not revved. Think of the oil pressure valve selection as the RPM band your trying to protect if you have 10 Psi per 1000 RPM oil pressure rule setup on your engine. In the case of most RB engines, your oil pressure issue (lack of it) will be a highish RPMs when the oil is up in the head and the sump is drained or at high G force loadings at medium RPMs while cornering if doing track work with sticky rubber. Ideal RBs would be best protected at either high RPM's or Mid point RPM's depending on how you use the car, very few people try to protect a RB running around at low RPM's. if somethings going to go wrong its when your having a bit of fun and having fun means either mid or high RPM's (and therefore oil pressure) So say your drag racing and are worried about lack of oil at High RPM, go the largest valve as you need all the oil pressure you can get when you starve of oil. Track cornering at mid RPMs where the oil may move to the side under high G loadings and uncover the pickup, or normal "bit of fun" street driving RPM's go the middle one. Daily driver thats never revved or loaded with strain go the lowest valve. I hope that sort of explains it and does not confuse you.....dont forget if your engines not making 55 PSI hot when Revved, it will never fill/pressurize the accumulator and hold the oil if you have selected the 55 PSI valve. I will be also using one, im going for the largest valve, direction of the build is Drag and im more worried about protection when its up in the RPM band when oil may tend to pool in the head or be forced back under high G force loadings of launch and gear changes.

Yes we found at the half way wear point there was little traction on them, in the wet you may as well be driving on oil..... New they were great though dry or wet. Im under the impression that heat cycling them hardened the rubber up. The other thing was that i had these on my Ute, i use to load it up to 3-400Kg (100Kg under its max load rating), every 3-4 months the sidewalls bulged from the cords inside breaking. After 2-3 rear sets i changed tyre brands and the problem went away, no more sidewall damage and traction right down to the tread wear indicators. They are cheap sh....

Those first 2 pics are a laugh, have those people worked out how they are going to bleed the brakes? Some people shouldnt play with certain things.....

Oi Scotty, im surprised you didnt mention variable speed fuel pumps or pump controllers to reduce the need for a cooler....go on now, i always enjoy your posts on fuel setups

1.2 to 1mm oil restrictors depending on oil weight, oil pump and what your planning to do with the engine. If its a RB30 block with a 26 head you need to block off the other oil port like on the 26 block. Restictor size has no relation to squirters, im using Nitto rods which oil out of the big ends in the rods. Ive drilled my returns to 10mm on my RB30. You want bigger returns to reduce the amount for blowby pushing the oil back up, smaller returns means more air working to oil back up.

The most important thing for a clutch is to bed them in properly, that is drive it normally till it gets a full contact patch which takes 500-1000Km. If you dont and start abusing it or laying power through it, expect it to start slipping and burn prematurely. I know someone with a XR6 turbo that went through 4 clutches in 1 year, all different brands (he blamed each brand each time), the fifth one was another one of the ones he first tried but this time he actaully followed the correct bed in and its lasted years now. The other thing is most copper and ceramic based friction materials prefer some heat to work properly, that means some heat in the flywheel before power is pushed through them. The last point was brought up to me in a meeting with Exedy one day, they were telling me that most failures of copper and ceramic based clutches they make, come from lack of heat in the assembly before power and abuse is put though them.

Do your calculations then based on a 1.75mm head gasket (or as your builder advises) if chasing a 40 thou quench, how far the pistons protrude above the deck top should not be an issue unless the top ring land position is questionable. Mine are 0.6mm out of the deck on my RB26/30.....means little as long as there is enough room for assembly stretch and piston rock at high RPM. But not too much space, you dont want secondard detonation pockets. You can provide less space if Red line RPM's are kept under check.

We are getting a lot of VE Commodore owners using these calipers with larger rotors that they purchase from us here in Melbourne. They buy the calipers from the states dirt cheap (so they tell me) and they bolt straight onto their VE's with bigger discs. Appartently much information on some Aussie GM forums, its a very popular conversion ATM.

I wouldnt be too concerned about how far the piston sticks out of the block if its a slight amount. I be very worried about the piston to head clearance, you need to allow for stretch and rock at change of direction when at song so they dont physically meet. If your dech was taller (not decked) you would run a thinner head gasket to keep the same head to piston clearance (that you were looking for). Do not try to radically increase compression by running the head gasket so thin that the pistons and head will meet. Whatever the dome is on the piston, will not effect compression much far from what they were designed to produce by the manufaturer by your blocks deck height, either way you will need to keep the piston and head appart a certain amount. If your chasing a compression increase and already have a piston to head clearance of around 1mm (40 thou) with your calculations, start looking for a larger domed piston, going any thinner on the head gasket could end in disaster. Your engine builder should be aware of all this.....speak to them as they will know the piston to head clearance. If your piston sticks out 1mm, you can get the decks machined down while leaving the dome alone to increase compression, another way to bump up what your after because you can run a thinner head gasket while maintaining the correct quench between the pistons and head.

I wonder if they cut the sump a bit high or if its previously been fitted to another sump and cut off and refitted to yours in which case it may hold less if its been welded and cut and rewelded.

Your rear boot catch (you can see it when you open the boot and look in the middle of the boot) can be adjusted lower. But remember too low and your boot lid will lock down lower so the top of the boot may sit lower than the cars body. If your boot sits too low against the rear quaters on the body, then look at he rear bar which may be mounted too low. Would be easier to judge if we could see pictures of how the boot lines up with the body and also how the rear bar lines up with the rear lights. Edit, as you sure the boot lids not pushed too far back from the hinge points so it has overhange causeing the gap?

Well your dipstick should be to the max line and to get there you should have poured in more than 1 litre more than a stock sump setup. If you have poured in just 5 L with a filter change and your reading to the full mark, then your Trust sump extension is not really adding any capacity .......and they are known for not adding much more capacity.....only 1 to 1.5 from what ive heard, hardly much of a increase compared to whats out there.

Find the vacuum leak and problem solved, you have air entering from somewhere. When can i have my $20? Jokes aside, start blocking things off and noting the idle, while also spraying around gaskets etc and listening for RPM changes. Somewhere airs getting into it......just a matter of finding the leak source or partially jambed open cold start, could even be a cracked hose. Start picking things off one at a time.

I use my jack stands on the cross member or chassis rails in the engine bay area.

Link isnt working. Fuel pump? Sounds electrical going by your post and fuel pumps are known to get noisy when on their last legs.

Hmmm, so you want faster gas speeds to spool up quicker right? Run the smallest diameter runners on the manifold, as you can, for the power your producing. But just remember as the power levels go up, you will need to increase them to flow enough so they are not a restriction. Some of the better manifold builders ask for a power goal so they can select the best runner diameter to help. Something up to 800Hp has smaller diameter runners than something producing 1200Hp Running a big runner manifold for a lower power build is as bad as running a smaller power manifold on a big power turbo. Bigger is not always better.....

Nice, reminds me of the 265 Hemis i use to build to E49 specs (plus more) with tripple webbers back in the early 80's. Then we would sledge hammer the firewall back an inch on the LJ's, use a 727 or 904 Torque flight with a high stall and 9" and bingo, mid 10's cars running on M/T's. Good to see some of the older engines still being appreciated. Try finding a LJ coupe now......they use to be a dime a dozen back then, its hard enough to find a good sedan these days......

Does it move even a mm? Tried 2 screw drivers behind it gently and evenly? Usually the shaft of the crank may need a polish as it has high spots from the balancer marking it. I did one for a workshop a few months back that they were struggling with (2JZ), just the crank snout needed a clean as it was getting stuck on it after moving 1 or 2 mm. If the gear wont come off and move at all, give it a few whacks face on with a brass punch to help shift it and get some WD40 inside the join points to free it up.

They ask what the customer wants, customer presents the parts if they have them and then Barry advises them from there. Not here are the parts, make it work, if the customer wants a reponsive E85 build and presents 8.2:1 pistons with 288 degree cams, they will be shown their error and told it wont work, and here is the right way to do it to achive your results. Now if the customer insists to use them, they will be warned it wont work, and knowing Barry quite well they may even be shown the door, he is more than busy enough and certainly does not have time for people with a altered state of reality. He certainly has no shortage of engine work in his engine room to waste time on dreamers and lately (spoke to him on Thursday) has been selecting what builds he wants to take on, if he knows they end result wont happen due to the customers insisted choises he wont put his name to the build. Now about any workshop can build a engine, sure, build, but build it how? Oil pickup too high or too low to the sump? Seen a few of these lately. Bearing clearances near enough because they were amatureishly checked with a plastigauge? Seen a lot of those too. End float on the crank set as whatever the new bearings came out as out of the box and not adjusted? Yes most normal builders are too scared to sand down the thrust face to adjust it better as its near enough to specs but on the tight side, she be right, once worn she will be looser. Ring end gaps too tight or too loose depending on the fuel and clyinder pressures run, hell ive seen many ring end gaps not done square on tear down let alone gapped right. Yes anyone can build a engine, but there is put together just like above and there is put together with care and meticulous attention to detail. Dont confuse the two.

And while you are there, pull the plugs out, check the condition, the heat range written on them and their gap.

Rule number 1 when pulled over, act resectfully to the police, act dumb (dont know much about cars), and hope they spot something basic on the outside to write the ticket for so they dont open the hood, thats the sort of defect that can be easy to clear as in most cases being too low of having tyres sticking out of the guards simply means presenting the car to Vic Roads (or whoever is the equivalent in your state) for a inspection to clear just what got written up and nothing else. My sons been done for having tyres out of the guards twice and (too) lowered once, all 3 times put stock parts on, lady comes out and looks, sees stock height or wheels, defect cleared, aftermarket parts bolted back on the moment it got home, Hwy patrol are constanly looking at it now, we are starting to think they have gven up as im sure the previous defects show up yet the car is back as it was and all they do is stare now. Think of being pulled over as a bit of a attitude test. You need to plumb it back, your not allowed to vent to atmosphere, its a simple as that now.

You may be surprised at how many track cars Barry has built engines for. They are not all HWY and Drag set ups, it just happens to be that that is what is popular ATM as customers come to him with the build requests, he does not tell them which application to build for. Yes more to it than meets the eye once you get into the engineering side, Race pace find it hard to fit a RB30 in a R32, that comes down to the difficulty of making it fit correctly, Edge on the other hand has no problems with this, that comes down to a wealth of experiance as its a common request for them. Now about the Pi times, i hope your not baseing that on the engines capability and reliability, you should be well aware thats based on the whole vehicle package, from suspension to brakes to box ratios to engine to tyres and so on. Yes if the OP wants a package, Race pace is the best with the most experiance, even i would have suggested that. However thats not what he was after......he needs a reliable track engine built, prefeably a RB26/30 into a R32 on a budget using Nitto parts. Now thats why Edge was recomended, he also has a vast experiance builting engines using Nitto parts and the engines are holding up well in all applications, a testament to the quality of Nitto components, a very good machinist and a very well experianced engine builder with the know how to build to each application. The last place i would want to go to is somewhere where they would push for a 28 to be built because they only know how to make them work, if a customer want a 30, then a 30 they should get, Edge has many 26, 28, 30 and 32's out there running Nitto parts sucessfully.

What spark plugs brand, heat range and gap are being run? Have the coil packs been checked?