GTRPSI

I can vouch for Barry at Edge, known him for a while, very honest and straight, has built many RB's and 2JZ's making over 1000Hp. We are even involved with a particular 3.2L Nitto stroker build ATM that he will put together, gave the specs and detailed mods to be done to Barry and the Machinist through the owner and after some discussions with them, i highly recommended them as i just dont have enough hours in my day to do it for the owner. Yes machinist used is kept very hush hush, i call him the precision Nazi.

Autos force shock impact will always be less than that of a manuals shock impact. Many are Cryo treating Auto parts with great sucess, manuals are more a mixed bag of results with more manual components failing. Those breaking manual boxes and drivelines on launch (only) have learnt that loading up the driveline with some clutch grab to take up the driveline slack before launching violently have had reduced breakages just by changing to that technique. Most breakages are from sudden shock impact loading.

There has been some extra timing scatter found when using Kevlar belts with high ramp rate cams with heavy springs. So far much of it, including the noise produced has been thought to be the belt tooth design when meshing with the gears, current thinking of many engine builders belive this aggravates/adds to the scatter issue. OEM has been found to be the least effected, or the most forgiving, or the best at absorbing the harmonics. With force on the belts and the harmonics produced, its based on how much lift and how agressive the ramp rate (both opening and closing the valves) of the cam lobes is combined with high spring loads working against the lobes, these harmonics are transfered to the cam gears and on to the belt. Enough spring force and crazy cam ramp rates can even twist cams on some engines (more so pushrod engines), in these cases billet cams that have the lobes joined are used to add strength to tie the lobes into phase from front to back. Low gentle lift with softish springs should produce little force onto the cam belt.

Post 3 pictures. 1 of your assembled caliper looking into it so we can see how the pad assembly sits. 2 of all the shims, clips and pins being run taken off the pads and the back of the pads. And 3 of the pistons faces in the caliper and the leading/brakeing edge where the pads put thier force into the calipers. Those pictures you showed of the pads show they were not bedded in yet, some pads make noise till they bed in.

Your way is so so, his way takes out all the issues that may present themselves, this of course costs money that some people see as unneccessary. I certainly wouldnt be shimming the oil pump relief, its very much based on guess work, once the engines sump is on your stuck with the shim you have picked, Tomie pumps are externally adjustable which is really good. A bigger sump is always recommended with more oil flow which your shimming will do, a correctly sized restictor in the block will limit the amount of oil that struggles to return back down to the sump, regardless of the pump you run or mods to your pressure relief valve. You could go your way and save a packet, however if the oil pressure relief is wrong its a engine back out job, and anything else you do thats a restriction or wrong will have to be done twice to correct it. Dont skimp on the oil pump and larger sump and block restictor. The rest will be easy enough to handle on the fly once the engine is built as its all accesable. Its not hard to upgrade the injectors, exhaust and change plugs when issues arrise once its built so maybe comprimise, do the engine internally his way, externally your way which can be corrected if need be.

With double valve springs ive used a piece of pipe to add leverage to the arm to help push the spring lower. Yes air and piston at TDC is the best way. Removing the springs you wont need the tool, a well placed whack square onto a socket on the retainer is all it takes to have it all come appart.

So what oil pressure readings are you getting to call low? 10PSI for every 1000 RPM is all you ever need...... If your seeing 60 PSI or over at 6000, your good for 6000RPM, over 30 PSI at 3000, and so on. Dont trust the factory oil pressure senders, make sure its aftermarket and post your results at each 1000 RPM. Usually its worn bearings rather than worn oil pump giving the low readings unless your pumps bypass valve is stuck open or the pumps seriously worn and damaged. A thicker oil will mask the issue.

You need light boost for bed in. When the bores are new, the hone leaves a finish thats rough and creates a lot of initial wear AND heat. So start with lower RPM, low boost, load up the engine with Accel, keep RPM's lowish, progressivly increasing load and RPM as the peaks of the hone get worn off. And as importantly to accel and give it some power, decel is just as important as it pulls the crap off the bores. So dont pussy foot it, but dont start off with crazy load and RPM, progressivily increase the load and RPM. Also you need your mixtures to be right, regardless of if its E85 or 98, too lean, too much heat in a cylinder thats already getting hot from bedding in, too rich washes off the oil thats lubing your rings which are going through a hard time and need oil to cool them during the high friction phase.

All R33 GTR's had brembos from the factory. You should have spotted that when you were buying the car......

Some RB heads also have a welsh plug also on the back of the head. Known to pop on high powered builds, when they do most people put a new one in a go around the alloy on the edge with a center punch to stake them in, in our case we welded the bung shut with a billet plug. Maybe get her up to cooling pressure and go around with a small mirror on a extension (you can buy them at supercheap) to have a look around.

Sounds about right, 450-550 is the going rate in labour here in Melbourne for a clutch swap including machining the flywheel.

Lots of GTRs running 3.5" without issues, but bigger is better, i would also go 4". Make sure you have enough ground clearance under the rear subframe and chassis if your lowered and get it tucked up tight to the car, nothing worse than dinting and scraping it over speed humps.

Standard acceptable is 0.05 to 0.18mm Limit is 0.3mm

Looks perfectly good fitment to me.

1mm of material is beyond bin time, was probably about to let go on your stock boost.. Time for a newy.

Because the OP has owned and driven a S2000 and GTR, just like we also own one of each, a direct comparison so HE understands, S2000's are gutless till 6K then they come alive, you need to drive them differently to most other cars. Tune not increasing turbo spool? EGT's ring a bell? You do tune to EGT's right? Do you want me to go on? Its a long list which incudes maximizing power off boost to bring the turbos on earlier, yep more flow sooner is better, including off boost. I also give up, seems like another thread of -7, -9 can produce the results rather than why -5's are not perfoming right. I think the OP has more than enough to think about now. Pretty much everything been covered from mechnical checking, blocked flow to tune, he has all the know how now to tackle the problem systematically......just find a good tuner who is prepared to spend the time. If your in Sydney (you mentioned CRD), try CRD, try GEM, Sydney is full of good tuners, im sure many here would offer more good names. Dont base your choise on price through..... Yes we are debating what one man likes over another, a timeless argument, one thing we can all agree on is the OP should be getting on boost earlier.

A tune will do miraculous things, if you dont understand what a tune is and whats involved, so be it, bury your head in the sand. Advance the cam timing brings in the bottom end, retard it and induce top end, same turbos, its been like this since the 70's on push rod engines and probably decades before i was playing with engines back then. Add timing, take out timing and fuel at certain points of the power curve, guess what? Night and day. Hell S2000 owners dont have a issue withg lag because they dont select a gear that allows revs to drop....just feel like banging my head into a wall how people cannot fathom some basics or knowing where the torque and power band is and making good use of it. Hey with your thoughts on tuning doing nothing, can i ask you if you know what cam gears are used for? Why timing is adjustable? Why different injectors behave differently? Why compression can effect lag? Why air temperature effects tune? With your method of reasoning one tune should do all.....-5, X injectors, Y base timing...hey presto a one fits all tune, just hand it out to everyone and charge $1000 regardless of the setup. Till someone adds a more effiecient intercooler, temperature changes, fuel pump changes, fuel changes, compression changes, cams get changed, heads are ported, boost is changed and the list goes on. If you had spent any time with a tuner willing to do a proper tune, the usual question is driving style and expectaion, power down low, up top, conservative, on edge, economical, powerful etc etc..... Not tune it and call be when its ready.....

Get your tuner to look at it, -5's should be on song at 4500, get him to check your accuators are shutting properly so your not losing anything and advance the cam timing a few degrees to add bottom end while adjusting the tune. In our books, nothing can be as laggy as a S2000 compared to a GTR on -5's, yet you see it the other way around. In both cars, step down a gear or 2, get it in the zone, feed the power on, no issues. How would you overtake in a 1.3L manual? Its just a matter of picking your revs to the situation and driving as the vehicle responds. We know of a GTR thats been to 2 tuners, owner of the vehicle commented on how much bottom end power he picked up with the second tuner, what use to be laggy is a totally different vehicle now after getting a second tuner to look at it. Fuel graphs timing etc were all over the place, the vehicle owner was shocked when he saw the before and after results. Once you have that part sorted readjust your driving to suit the vehicles setup. The way we drive a GTR compared to a S2000 is quite different, however the theory on where the power is, is the same, if your not in the zone and you want to be brisk, its a slug. However your tune, can totally change the power dynamics, if its setup to come on up top, you will have nothing down low, if the tune is crap overall expect lower power everywhere. And remember, being a GTR (heavy) it will not feel as racey as a S2000, but it will be a shit load quicker if sorted.

Ok so your saying your S2000 started from 6K and red lined at 9K so you had a 3K window and you drove to those points when you wanted to go quick. (like all S2000's) So whats your points on the GTR, get the picture? Sure, your tune must be out to be on song at 5K, we have all been telling you that, with a tune you should be on song at 4.5K, take it out to 7.5-8KK and bobs your uncle, theres your 3K+ window. Sheez, we had -10's on our GTR and we had no lag issues and they were ther kings of lag.....well i did have to show my son how to drive it.....like a S2000, get the revs up to 5K, take it out to 8.5K my boy, it worked and he was a happy camper, all of a sudden better cars were behind him. Speaking of which my daily is a stock FG Turbo Ute on Injected LPG. 0-80, so far no issues with HSV's Evos, Sti, M3's AMG's and just last night i played with a R35 which natuarally kicked my butt as you would expect, however looking at the footage from my onboard camera, not as easily as i would have expected when he did use lauch control, i expected a lot more, when we ran without him using launch control he was in my rear view mirror, to be fair my reaction time was better and he just stayed glued to my rear quater panel but couldnt pull me in to 80 when i backed off. Now with FG Turbos, they got a smaller Turbo than the F6 models...smart person wont try to run anything over 80/100Kmh, as i start running out of puff, they come alive and start to catch up and pass. Same story with -5 VS the smaller variants, while the smaller turbo may seem quick at lower speeds, the larger ones will walk past you once the speeds increase. If your using your GTR to go shopping, fit the smallest turbo, you will feel great at legal speeds, but i dont know about you but i dont own a GTR to be quick to 80 and to convince myself im driving legally. Who cares about 0-80, if you want to be quick there get a FG turbo as a daily. -5's are perfect if you want to push the car occasionally, Im not going to run mums and dads in Corrolas. Learn to drive with them, man up, get your speed right and shift down a gear when you want to run, or if doing a standing start learn to launch it properly.

Yes but you may find its a little too much power on tap. -5 wont present this, unless your in the wet on Kmart china special tyres and have absolutely no driving ability and throttle control in your right foot.

Ive been quitely haveing a chuckle at this thread, and this is the first real post thats nailed it. If you want linear power with no lag, some people should realize they need to fit smaller turbos and get rid of the high power dreams or just go and buy a NA. How would most here survive driving a S2000, the cars dont produce anything under 6500, yet they are blindingly quick when driven as they are designed to be. If you think -5 are too big and you want more power, shift down a gear to get them into their RPM range or fit small turbos, it shouldnt take pages to relize its in the driving style or turbo choice.

Thats the hot water rising to the top as its no longer being pumped around, start the car and get the water pump working and it mixes with the cooler water dropping the temp back down.

I agree, a shorter duration camshaft comes on quicker so leave the stock one in there. Pretty much sort out any exhaust side restrictions, play with cam gear timing and if the car is mechanically OK its down to the tune only.

Get it on the dyno, get it tuned, advance the cams for earlier response. Also make sure the wategates are shutting properly. Dyno tuner should be able to pull much more bottom end into it if the wategates are OK. Ive seen GTR's change dramatically in the way they drive from tuner to tuner, some tunes have more lag but plenty of top end, some come on hard but start running out of puff up top, some are a good balance.

And those bendy roll cages pretty much dont meet our standards.....but add toughness to the ride in terms of looks only. Hey meathead, do you have a shopping list of brand names down the sides of your doors?