GTRPSI

I think you need to ask the japs what they thought of our Aussie Godzillas before making that remark. Maybe ask them what they had been taught from us......

Block them off, simple. If you look at a RB30 series 2 block, its what was done on the non turbo models.

Sounds like a sticking thermo, its the first thing to try.

There is one other thing being missed. Even a high flow cat is a waste of time if it does not meet EPA standards, there are rules to the standards and if you want to meet them expect some sort of restriction, most 100 cells dont pass emissions you may as well have no cat. Otherwise a straight pipe through a cat shell is the way, looks like a cat but isnt, get called in for a test bolt on a stock cat. Exhaust notes dont change much (very little) with or without a cat, a cat is not a muffler which is designed to muffel sound, its a chamber with a cell substrate inside.....

Usually worn bearings lead to brake shudder and disc thickness variation. The disc moves around between the pads leading to uneven wear moreso than brake noise. Ive seen cars with seriously worn bearing never make a sound, the only hint was bearing noise and then brake shudder.

Or just buy another diff if yours has shit the casing.

The standard rule of play is to advance cams for more bottom end and retard their timing for more top end.

Its pretty common to have them fail, most people just replace the studs on the head whenever the mainifold or head is off. Many heat cycles makes them brittle, however all of the previously mentioned issues such as warped manifolds etc add to the issue.

L19 12mm or 1/2" studs can be used on RB's, nothing a drill and tap cannot fix. Tomei head gaskets are proven to hold well......

Hi, I have a jun lip here never fitted in frp. txt me on 0422216160 if interested.

can you please pm me your phone number. intersted.

Diagram actually writes the name of the part that the line goes into. Variable air intake control solenoid valve.

One thing i should add is you dont really need a cutout when monitoring things, a simple alarm like a warning light/alarm is all you really need if your worried about a hard cut. Most of the better ECU's you can set the low or high point of what you monitoring to kick in well before engine damage occours.

Looks like a very good car but looking at pics is not how to judge it. Id say those Km are on the second dash cluster.....

I can, lost it on the launch and next 2 gear changes, oil pressure light didnt flicker, haltech logged it though. You know whos Supra that was Scotty.....at the SM1000 It was because the oil tipped to a 45 degree angle and uncovered the pickup while pulling high Gs on slicks and at 8000Rpm. Teardown of the motor showed things as OK, however having a cut out on a 1/4mile car can be a good thing. Take it back to the pits, check the logging to find out why and minimise the engine damage. So Greeces13, your ideas are fine, your on the right track with your thinking.... Sure Accusump will help as would 100 other oil mods, however monitoring and putting failsafe devices into your build is a good thing.

And beat them while running in the GT3 AM class against GTS Pro AM classed cars.

And get the instaled height and spring bind checked before starting the engine this time. If the valvles are recessed from machining they will sit with too little pressure, shims need to be added under them to keep them within specs.

Brendans got a shit load of machining and hand work in front of him now. Its in good hands from here on......

One basic, step one thing when fitting new valve springs is checking installed height, pressure at seat and pressure at lift. If these basic 101 things were done while the head was assembled, you should not have had a issue with valve float what so ever. Shims can be added beween the head and spring, coil bind should have also been checked. Cam makers give recomendations of these seat and lift specs.......

Looks new to me. Did you expect it to look all shiny? Looks like the mating face was surfaced to make sure its flat from the manufacturer, that small mark may be from when it was placed on a table at the manufacturer. Check the other side of the cover, are there imprints of where the bolts were tightened on? Usually something thats simply been prevoiusly fitted (even never started) will leave witness marks on the cover were the bolts go on to tighten it to the flywheel.

Barry at Edge motorworks. 3/17 Carrington Drive, Albion VIC 3020 call him on 8361 9523 Tell him Peter from Roxy put you onto him. He wont let it through unless its right, he wont make up stuff either, just honest work, either it s right or not. You may have luck getting him to squeze it in for Saturday morning if you call him today.

Bleed nipples should be on the calipers and ABS unit only.

Bottom end done, headwork half way there. Fitting a LSD is not a headache, its just a bit of grinding to clearance so the unit can fit in. Even removing the stock one is a bit of a tight fit, aftermarket ones having a larger body need some more room to slip in.

Engine off when bleeding. Someone pushes the pedal, someone else cracks the bleed nipple open, leaves it open till the pedal hits the floor, close the nipple, lift the pedal. Check your ABS which also should have bleed nipples.

Quaife is a known winner, just read a few threads here to understand. Im currently fitting a RS Cusco 1 way in ours, front diff casing needed some grinding to creat enough clearance to slip it in as its wider where the clutch pack body is. Do it while the sump is off so you can clean the alloy shavings out easily. Type Cusco RS centers are suppose to run a 80w140 oil in the rear and lighter 80w90 oil for front diffs. In my case im using a Motul Gear competition full synthetic 75w140 for the front diff due to power loadings on the gears. For Cusco RS centers the oil must contain a friction modifier.....