GTRPSI

Bone stock machined flywheel.

Thats a personal question, like asking a stranger what color of underwear they are wearing. I wouldnt go over .0027" on mains and .0025" on big ends with a straight 50 weight of heated oil and engine for a drag spec RB30 engine around up to 900kw at the flywheel. Yes its been tested, 1200hp RB30 engine pulled down twice on the dyno, no ACL bearing issues..... There is a formula that ive used from the late 70's to calculate bearing clearances based on jounal diameters, its still being used today, its all over the web now. 0.001" clearance per 1" of shaft diameter to get a base figure which is the maximum for a stock build or the Minimum for a race build. deduct 0.0005" to give minimum clearance stock build. Add 0.0005" to give maximum race build.

Best wearing.... Bearings seperate the crank and rod journals with a coat of oil, if theres contact, dont blame the bearings. Maybe you meant best to support loads on them. Ive never had a issue with ACL, talk of specs, well you measure everything twice and again another time to be sure and ive never had a issue with ACL bearings being wrong or out of spec. They even have a extra mains thrust face oil slot to lube the thrust face for heavy clutch pressure plates and good crush on them too. Half sized oversized shells that you can mix with stock sized shells to bring clearances exactly where you need them when chasing a littler extra clearance in a performance engine running thicker oil.... Its not just the brand of bearing, its also the clearance your targeting, oil pump you will be using, viscosity of oil and intended use of the engine. If your building something for 600Kw and running 30 weight of oil through a N1 pump on loose clearances, bye bye whatever bearing your running.......

Most basic aftermarket ones have a standard feel. We use to have a Exedy Heavy duty in which falls into your power goals, you wouldnt have known it was anything other than a standard one, bite and feel felt stock. Or call Jim Berry from raceclutch, tell him your requirements and he can build you what you need, he probably has one sitting on the shelf.....

We just threw a set of new EBC Yellow Stuff pads in a modded R35 the other month, he had the same issue with the factory pads, nothing but noise, new pads in for the last 2-3000Km and not a sound. He just sold it and picked up a nice F430 Ferrari, just a few days old and wants the same pads in it now..... No, suspension tightness has fark all to do with brake noise, its the pads vibrating in the calipers and rubbing on contact points, we had a customer here the other day complaining of noise on his Subarus Sumitomos, took one look and one side didnt have the sprung plate over the pins that presses down on the pads, the other side did have one that lost its tension from heat cycles. Put 1 new plate in, retensioned the old one on the other side and no more noise from the old pads.....

@Ryan, have you thought about selling the output shafts and other bits as kits for GTR owners? That way we could build up our own strengthened autos and just add the bits on to convert them to work with the GTR transfer case. Would save everyone a shit load of development and you could recoupe some of your already made developement costs along the way.......

Exactly, and thats assuming you know what your doing......

The factory sumitomo calipers come with stainless shims already there. Problem is many people throw them out then blame pads for not having shims with them..... Your supposed to keep and reuse the factory ones between the pad and pistons. If you have pads with metal backing plates, put the original shims aside so you have them when buying pads without shims.

Get in there with a dremel and make a flat blade cut out. Get a impart driver and whack it with a hammer while twisting it into the undo direction.

Already adapted to suit the RB block bolt pattern, tranfercase and bolt straight in, considerably more than the 5K mentioned above. Ive been looking into it.....(and still researching it) A straight built 2spd powerglide or Turbo 400 to take serious power, yes $5K and less.

If you check the RB26 blocks, this is blocked off with a plug. Thats what i did to my RB30, i removed the holding ring, ball bearing and spring and shoved a bung in there with locktite and went around with a center punch to ensure it wouldnt move. Its a pressure relief that feeds back into the oilway passage between the oil pump and filter.

As long as you dont knock it to the ground it should be OK if sitting on the main caps exactly over the bearings or sump flange. With the webs between the mains on the girdle being thin(ish), i wouldnt want to rest the whole engines weight on them. The bearing caps are fine, they are designed to take quite a load through them and spread it through the blocks strongest points.....

Booster has a one way valve in line to help hold vacuum. If the boosters diaphram has a hole, it will leak vacuum and your idle speed will increase. Correctly working it will not alter the idle speed as its sealed.

If the grab point chages either your fuild needs bleeding or the clutch pedal braket has cracked, yes they are known to do so.

Bleed your clutch lines and if its still grabbing high adjust the rod under the dash so the pedal will grab lower to the floor first. Hopefully you have not burnt it out yet. Exedy HD will hold a bit over 300 at all 4 when in good nick, once you start doing 4WD launches with it and slipping it, the burning smell will start once worn and then its all down hill from there.....

I doubt they made a thicker bore or improved the oil drains..... What they needed to do was copy the 2JZ block and make it fit to the RB26 head, problems all solved.

Partially grout fill the block to support the bores from flexing. Its only the bottom inch to inch and a half, it wont effect cooling but will provide much extra bore strength. We are 86.5mm on a RB30 block and not too concerned about it holding to 650Kw at all 4, remember our bore is taller with more room to flex and fail compared to a 26. Id be more worried if it was a stroker as the rod stroke ratios of strokers tend to provide more side loading on the bores, with stock RB26 or 30 ratios they are as good as it gets to minimize side loads.

Ive seen stock bores crack. Push anything far enough, or a bad tune and expect it. Keep your power goal realistic and with a good tune, should be fine.

Competition Coatings. 9354 8021 10 Audrey Ave North Coburg I used them to ceramic coat our piston crowns and teflon coat the skirts, they do a lot of performance work from mainifolds and exhausts through to engine components.

Im suprised nobody didnt mention jim berry earlier, call him and ask him the price of a new one before you rebuild a old one.

With gaskets i dont run RTV silicon, i use avation gasket sealer, the non hardening type or Hylomar sealant. I use the rtv where there are no gaskets used. (sump etc)

I thought by using a Virgin olive oil you couldnt screw your engine....virgins dont know how to screw.....

Craig at 2die4 body works in Epping is also good, he does all our body work on all our cars.

A few things to look out for on Skylines (we own a brake shop) If they are the Sumitomo calipers (4 piston front and 2 piston rears).... Most of the noise is from 2 places. 1/ contact points between the pad and the caliper (not rotor), shims help in that area however a little smear of copper grease between the pad and pistons, pad and caliper leading edge helps a long way, just dont get any of the stuff on the pad friction face or rotors. 2/ The calipers have a wide flat spring type clip that fits around the 2 pins that hold the pads in, this pushes down on the pads, sometimes you need to bend them a bit so to retension them to apply more downwards force on the pads. Not enough tension pushing the pads down lets the pads vibrate, the noise your hearing is not the pad on the rotor, its the pads vibrating and rubbing on the calipers, slider pins and pistons. Also watch out for sticking pistons, the cars are getting old, seals sweal, pistons rust up internally which will make pistons stick and not release which can glaze rotors and pads and overheat them

Stock oil feed size on a RB30.... 10-15 Minutes later they were all 8mm..... Below you can sort of get an idea of whats not exactly right with the factory RB26 oil feed grooves for the bearing feeds from under, the pic is of a stock RB26 block oil groove channel, the oil feed hole is on the right, the deepest part of the channel is in the center, when feeding bearings the channel should be deepest at the oil feed hole, gradually thinning to the outer holes, point being as each bearing hole robs some oil, the furtherest ones need a shallower groove/slot to supply a even flow of oil across all points. Also my RB30 grooves are about 3 times the depth at the deepest point compared to the RB26 deepest point, bearing holes were also modded to take advantage of the extra oil flow.