GTRPSI

Running the timing off the CAS can be a very inaccurate way of controling your timing. CAS runs off the exhaust camshaft, which is driven by the timing belt, the belt can stretch, slap and so on making the timing move around. Best way to run it is straight off the crank, bypassing the inaccuracy or the timing belt and the issues it causes to timing fluctuation.

We have a saying in GTR circles. Anyone can afford to buy a GTR, however very few can afford to keep it. As mentioned earlier, if you need to borrow for a toy walk away. The ongoing running and fixing issues is whats goin to cost. Spin a bearing and find out the hard way.....hopefully you will have paid of the car when this happens so you can afford to borrow more for a second time. No cash, no toy.

Stay with the stock cooler, save you money and buy a more modern turbo turbo first.

Far too small. Have a look at the size of the block oiling passages, they are bigger than 10mm.

Karma at its finest. Pity the bike was probably damaged in the process.

Not exactly correct, they asked us the body, the turbo etc to make sure it will be adjusted to fit in the engine bay with the bonnet closed. We also requested split manifold with 2 individual seperate gates which was adjusted to work around the rest of the engine bay, most were with 1 gate on the divided manifolds. When you ordered it, did you tell them the engine bay it was going into? If you did and they didnt know if they had a manifold to work in it they would have warned you of it.

Souunds like its running pig rich. O2 sensor, fuel pressure regulator, airflow meter if your smelling fuel and seeing black smoke out the rear.

I tried a similar plate (SKITZO), Vic roads refunded my money after applying and told me it may be offensive to those with a mental disorder.

The longer collar is built into the crank, not a actual collar added on, its part of the crank. No it does not stop oil pumps from breaking. Edit, just to add, it does reduce the chances of breaking a oil pump by speading the load and wear across a larger area, however oil pumps still break with the long nosed oil pump drive cranks.

Missed this thread so posting a bit late. Check your flywheel and clutch cover assembly weight, heavy is good for hard launches with sticky rubber on GTR's. The mass assists reducing bog downs, stored energy for when you let the clutch out. Lighter assemblies tend to head towards bogdowns.

Make sure you bled the system first before adjusting anything if you had a leak and fixed it.

Or in other words, make the rod longer, your lengthening the rod or screwing it out of the pedal assembly.

Check for spark, if no spark start aiming for the fuel pump. Could be a case of it sitting too long and seizing up.

I think that what you are looking for is in the link below.... http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/01/real-problem-with-rb26-oil-pump.html

My Nitto collar was so tight i struggled to get the tomie oil pump on, i had to take the crank back to the machine shop to get the oil pump collar machined down. Dont blame the collar, blame the person fitting it for not machining the crank down enough.... Too tight can be as bad as too loose, the crank needs room to flex and walk.

Its not just about flowing for your power goal. Its also about effecting drivability. Bigger ports can hurt flow speed, hurt lower RPM power, in the hunt for high RPM power. Where you take off can make a big difference, you dont just hack into it with a die grinder. Walls are already thinish, take off too much from the wrong place can make you head worth its value in weight of aluminium when you break into a water jacket.

This business of piston slap and concerns about it is crazy. Forged pistons expand more than cast items, so when they are cold expect them to be smaller than they need to be in the bore compared to cast pistons, they need room to expand, its the nature of the construction and material. If you planning to thrash the engine stone cold, let alone let the tempature of the oil come up first, stay with cast pistons in a lower powered build, high powered forged internals are not for you, at least its a cheap engine your destroying. Those who know about piston slap first hand know its only for a minute or 2 till they get some heat into them while idling, they are designed to be perfectly fine while going though this phase during warn up. It like saying dont run a exhaust or cams because the engine does not sound like a stock one does.......

Any pot holes or rough road when it happened? Saw a gearbox break recently due to this, going onto power, car got slightly light and back down again over the roughness killing the box. Never had a issue on the flat in the past. As could axel tramp.

Try fitting a Tomie pump on a RB30. Wont go straight on, sits 2.7mm out from the block.....more mods with a die grinder. So much more than meets the eyes......

The closest you can get to a decat without being caught by police is run a cat shell over a straight pipe so it looks exactly like a real cat, when they look under there is a cat there. If called in for real polution testing, you usually have 7 or so days to present the car to bolt the stock one on. Obviously you need the flanges of the decat one to match the exhaust flanges so its a straight swap over before you go in for the test. Most EPA tests are just a noise based test, the serious one is the full pollution test. (anal examination)

Nice, cooler Sedat, 14 plates. Whats the inner diameter of the cooler pipes, thickness of the cooler? Looks somewhere around 100mm in the pics. Got pics of the inside through the pipes, wouldnt mind seeing how it looks inside where the plates are. Whats the core dimensions? Maybe next time you swing past bring it so we can have a look at it.

I also had low oil pressure readings, changed the oil pressure sender with a new one and issue fixed. Cat probe is a temperature sensor, when i first got my GTR the probe was not in, just coiled up under the car and the bunge plugged off.

And fitting it in a 32. You just love punishment Sedat.

No he is not ignoring, thank you for the suggestions, he has just pulled back and watching. My last words to him last time we spoke were sit back and wait to hear and see more results for the 6870, dont rush in now as its still early. As is said to him, could be what he was looking for. His turbo and manifold purchase will be made last, now he has his RB32 bottom end to be built, his head is ready, then study results and pick the turbo.......

Im doing one now in a 32 GTR. Clutch booster, bonnet reo removal and fan hitting the shroud are the issues. Biggest one is keeping the RB30 block road legal in that model, cant be done. Its the biggest plus to stay stroker, nobody knows whats in the factory block.