GTRPSI

Then find a point in the engine bay where you can run a wire from the body to the ignitor, make sure the body point makes good contact, maybe sand the paint down a little. Its exactly the same thing, your whole metal part of the body is a ground point.

They dont need to touch your car, they only need to suspect it to defect you. We had a EPA noise test letter sent to us, was issued the day the car had a roadworthy and was inspected at Vic roads for rego. 5 coppers (young red necks) were standing on a corner in the city the first night we went out, cars exhaust was super quite, car was driven gently through traffic, one of them noted the plates and made a report. Just because it was a Skyline and shinier than the shitbox they probably drove....... About police looking at the car, disconnect the bonnet release or put the lever elsewhere, they can still defect you for it, but cannot open it to photograph or note the mods. Then deal with a freindly RWC tester to clear it. (bad luck if you dont know one)

I agree, the poor mans stroker. Crack a block, bend or break a crank, spin a bearing and for a few $ your reletively out of the shit. Im not a big fan of strokers due to cost when things go wrong.

Run it direct to your battery earth. I made my own earth kit and did it like this.

Strangly enough if its crab walking in a straight line under power, in our case it was the rear subframe bushes were shot so we slipped in some Alloy collars to lock it. Problem solved, Hicas was still working, car stayed straight under power when in a straight line.

Coming on boost or at full boost Sedat? Ask him for the dyno graph, what compression and cams he is running. Would be interesting to see 29Psi at 4500Rpm. If true then our 7175 with .96 housing will be on song earlier or about the same being a 3.0 bottom end if compression and cams are similar.

I would check the prices, and check rebuilding costs before making a decision......then take it from there. We went precision 7175 ONLY because we go it new for a ridiculously low price after someone abandened their drag build and it was perfect for what we were targeting. I would have prefered the 7175 GT42 style though..... Edit, nothing in my inbox Sedat

750Kw street......(join the dots). As ive tried to tell Sedat when he came over, a GTR with a 6766 will be quicker on the street A to B, a 7175 like ours will come alive and be quicker again after 80-100Kmh onwards, what he wants wont come on song till everyones pulled into McDonnalds, ordered and started planning the next run. To win a run he would need to reach what is down right suicidal street speeds, the others with smaller turbos would be ahead of him the whole way as he fights traction and plays catch up, by the time he gets there they are on the brake pedal slowing. Remember most runs are only to 120-140 max? Maybe the old 160-180 serious run? Street surface, not a dedicated drag strip? Street Drag radials? Sedat, you need the smallest turbo to reach where you want to go, you need it to come on early (3.2 will help) and you need linear power delivery, nothing, nothing bang is only good at the drag strip with Nos to bring the turbo up on launch, its a diffrent game to the street. Its not about the total power figure, its the way its delivered...... However running at GTR Challenge or SM1000 is again another thing to rolling starts at bypass. Maybe if you want to run those 2 events, take the word street out of your turbo choise.......then go big turbo, big power and learn to live with it, even at those 2 events traction is a issue, ask Barry and James about the start line at SM1000, listen to the launches, its like gravel there on the start line, ive heard the GTR challenge is not much better.

The precision range are well known to be under rated in terms of stated power, many builders have gone over stated rating easily, add e85 to the equation and its do able IMHO. Have a look at the size of this custom made JPC turbo, its tiny, and on a single cam 2 valve head...... Remember you want to be quick streetable, that means coming on early and lineraly (ish). Otherwise the other end of the scale is GTX47. Take close note of the work throughout the car to support this thing, dont expect it to last forever..... I think that asking for 750Kw at the wheels without a billet mains (as we discussed) will be a very short lived motor and slow on the actual street, purely drag strip 1/4 mile only and a pig to drive around. 750kW is pointless on the street, you cannot/will not lay the power down what so ever, while your fighting traction, the other guys gone. Just my 2 cents.....the dyno number will sound good though.

That would be me, 4500lb, nah 5700 Jim berry.

Sedat, contact RIPS or do some research into their builds.

If it only squeals on braking, take the pads out, check if they have a 45 degree chamfer on the leading and trailing edges of the friction material, if not make them with a grinder, and thow a little copper grease on the back of the pads where they contact the piston and caliper. Use it sparingly and dont get any between the pad and rotor contact face, or in other words the friction points. Most noise is usually the pads backing rubbing against the caliper and piston contact points. Glazed rotors will also produce noise, a light skim should bring them back to life if they are thick enough.

I had something similar on our GTR, turned out being the ignitor module. Also check your earths to the engine, ignitor module has one on the R32 GTR's on one of the rear bolts holding it down, unsure about later R33 GTR models.

Most are towed these days. Tracker is useless as they put a GPS blocker/jammer in the car. If they are half organised and want it, they will get it, simple as that.

It has a back up battery, ive set mine to record for a extra 2-3 or so minutes after ive left the car, i run mine off the lighter socket, can be hard wired in to permenent 12v, then it can store any movement around your car it detects when your not around, will only record the movement it caught on screen. It also has a shock sensor so any knocks are recorded.

https://www.facebook.com/guardtrak It was on the back window of the ute, not the back window of a sedan. Clear as day at night, HD, GPS, google maps trackings, g force in all directions, knock detection recording etc..... The business owners name is Rick, i know him through the Austech forum (jok11n). http://www.austech.info/showthread.php?t=79469&page=4 Post # 66 Edit; you have the option not to show the speed on the recording in the options menu, i like it on, especially if caught for alleged speeding. I sent him a PM there about this thread, he might chime in, if he reads this maybe he could do a group buy? Up to him.....

Unsure how the "black knight" trackers work. I have heard that thives are using GPS jammers to steal cars these days, even towed ones, they simply throw the device into the vehicle to block the signal. So if its a GPS tracker, it can be disabled without even needing to find it. There have been a few GTR's here in Vic that have simply vanished from the face of the planet......a very worring trend.

The part that had me worried was when police asked me if i got the rego number of the truck, i didnt know if i did. I looked at the police officer and said, when it happened, i went into survival mode, i actauly ducked my head to the left while keeping the ute as straight as possible thinking one of the trailers might collect the B pillar behnd my head and take the roof off (and my head) with it. The part of the bridge where it happened was near its highest, a good 100m up over the city, im in the left being smashed into a steel guard rail by a B double, if that guard rail failed it would have been game over very quickly. Then the breath test, and the doubt i was telling the truth (police need to be like this), they called the people who montor the cameras on the westgate bridge while is was there only to be told they dont record and are monitored in real time and that the camera operator missed it. I mentioned to the police i had a onboard camera but had not looked at it for close to 2 years, i knew it worked because everytime i started the car i could hear it chime as it turned on. Got home, put the memory card into the PC and the whole thing could be seen as clear as day, my unit was on the back window looking over my left shoulder so you could see my speedo in real time, it also has GPS Tracking so you can see where you are on google maps, it also shows the speed on screen from the GPS tracking to backup my speedo reading and the date and time. The other good thing is i wont need to waste my time going to court to back up the police, its a birds eye view of the whole event, before, during and after, police were surprised to see i survived and said i was very lucky, it could have easily turned into a fatality. For court, nasty images help the judge come down harder as the seriousness of the crime is shown. The truck driver certainly would have got away without the camera.

I think (not 100% sure) your cams are 288 degrees and 10.6 or 10.8 lift cant remember. (the cam spec sheet is with your head at barrys) The issue your going to have is a big enough rear housing to flow where you want to but small enough to come on early. Our precision 7175 has the .96 housing.... http://www.precisionturbo.net/Street-and-Race/ss/800-1-000HP/details/Street-and-Race-Turbocharger---PT7175-CEA%C2%AE/273 Why dont you go with the same turbo in GT42 Style, many good/better RB results with them..... http://www.precisionturbo.net/Street-and-Race/ss/800-1-000HP/details/Street-and-Race-Turbocharger---PT7175-GT42-Style/274 GT45 will be a lag monster man.....

I had one in my delivery ute for about 2 years now. About 3 months ago a B Double changed (swerved) lanes fast on the Westgate bridge, i was in the left lane and he didnt see me at night, whole drivers side was torn apart, passanger side was crushed into the guard rails, suspension was busted, ute was totaled and he did a runner. Dash cam caught the whole thing, handed a copy on USB to the police, truck driver lost his licence and from the footage they made a pretty long charge sheet including hit and run, tail gating, dangerous driving, plate on the rear obscured etc. Police told me i may not need to attend court as the footage is pretty much showing the whole thing from the drivers seat. If they can prove in court he knew it happened (you can see his trailers swerving as they bounced off the side of my car and he first made contact with his steering wheels so he felt it through the steering wheel), police said it would be a mandatory 6 months jail for the driver as its a hit and run. Lets see how good his lawyer is. Cannot tell you all how good it is to have a onboard camera. Without it he would have got away and i would have paid the excess and taken the blame for it. And the punch line for the truck driver is when police called him into the interview room once they caught up with him by getting the plates from up the side as i was next to him, he said he was home, his wife could vouch for it and the truck was locked up in the yard on the night of the accident. Police asked him if that was his statement, he said yes, they got him to sign the statement, then they spun a lap top over to him and hit play, the guy went red when he saw the footage and they asked him if he wanted to make another statement.......they got him for making a false statement too..... Dickhead. Get a dash cam, you think you will never need it (my family use to laugh at me for getting one) and it paid itself.

Just spent this arvo making a new windage tray for the same sump as yours by hand, a bit of a twist to the original tomie one. Will show you when you pop over. Dont call, just swing past 12 onwards man, ill probably be up late tonight.

Think of the clutch pack like a motorbike wet clutch or LSD clutch pack, yes they have surfaces that wear on both sides of each plate. You can pick and chose between 2 transfer case packs, pick different wear clutches to add or reduce the whole pack total thickness. So if you have one slightly worn and the assebly total is a bit short you could use one or 2 with no wear inside the pack to compensate for the thickness missing on the thin one. If they are all very worn you could add a extra plate to the mix. Remember you need to get the snap ring that holds the whole assembly on to the drum so you cant go too thick on the assembly. Picture of clutch pack plates in the external link below.... http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/30-parts-sale/142604-gtr-transfer-case-clutch-pack.html Diagram of workshop manual layout, you can see the plates laid out, outer and inner order.....(post 15) http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149088-cant-get-attessa-to-work-properly-in-r32-gtr-for-track-use/ Edit; Close up of the friction inner... http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/165619-attesa-clutch-thickness.html Obviously if its worn down through the friction base, its bin time....

Dont forget to read this to lay the power down and get good launches, thought id let the cat out of the bag..... http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436604-transfer-case-rebuild/page-2 Barry should have no issues doing it for you, i promised to show him 6-9 months ago but didnt get around to it yet as i dont have much time during my long working hours, now you can show him for me and he can start offering the service. The mod is done while the box is out, simply swap the transfer case from your stock box over to the dog box when you get it. Edit, Henry will understand it, i gave him a hint about it while he was working on a noisy LSD on a FWD Honda (Civic?), mentioned the clutch pack arrangement mod to him while it was out and he understood me, its exactly the same principal.

The one on the right looks like the block off oil feed restrictor plug (like a oil restrictor but with no hole)

Its not the adding of plates. Its the arrangement of them. There are 19 plates in the standard setup, 12 outers and 7 inners to make up the clutch pack, Outer = O, Inner = I when reading the layout below..... Stock is IOOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOOI Full max grip rearrangement would be IOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOIOI You only need another old tranfer case to rip the plates out of to rearrange your old setup, scavanging the extra inner plates to use, you need to select ones of the right thickness to end up with the correct end clutch pack thickness so some mix and matching is required. You dont need to go full grip, you can make up your own arrangement of plates like something in the middle like IOIOOIOOIOOIOOIOIOI Same theory as playing with a Cusco LSD clutch pack arrangement, see page 9 below....... http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/pdf/LSD%20Guide%20Final.pdf