GTRPSI

Support the yellow alloy top from under where the mushroom head of the stud is with a socket that is large enough for the musroom head to fit through as you hammer it down. You need something tubular like a socket to fit around the stud but not touch it, it must sit against the yellow alloy top to support it and provide room for the stud to pass through.

Exactly what he said. If they were screwed in then no need for the mushroom head underneath and there would have been a method to drive them in by a tool. I highly doublt that they are threaded into a aluminium hat and just hold via some threads in alloy, notice the large flat mushroom head from underneath? Its so they dont pull through the alloy when tightening the nut. They are studs just like on wheel hubs. I have seen a few manufacturers use this method on coilovers and normal struts on OEM assembies, we had one broken on the rear on our GTR, it was snapped off by the previous owner, when looking at it it was a punched in stud, next time i have the rear coilovers out i will be punching it out to replace it.

Just fixed a Cracked Honda S2000 Gearbox case that cracked around the drain plug in 3 places (told son not to overtighten it 1000 times before putting the plug back in and what does he do?) with JB Weld. I have heard people are also using it on radiators, but i can tell you his gearbox is not leaking and it saved me from pulling the box out and getting it welded back up again. (or replacing the box) Dodgy as hell but it worked, dont know about the next gearbox oil change though......

They are punched/pressed in, in exactly the same way as wheel studs are fitted to hubs. Put a socket under the stud so the stud can fit through the hole in the socket, sit assembly with the socket on a sturdy bench, whack threaded end of stud with a hammer so its pushed out into the socket. The whole idea of the socket is to support the camber plate while hitting the stud back out into it. If you find new studs to knock in and they fit a little too easily, you can go around the camber plate, right next to the stud hole with a center punch, this will shrink the hole a little to make the new stud a tighter fit.

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/DealerPage/dealer_network_AustraliaNZ.html

Thats the most critical area, its the first cm or 2 i spoke of near the valve. On both intake and exhaust, concentrate on the short side, on the intake its all around near the valve seat that needs work to smoothen the transition to the vavle seat.

The first cm into the exhaust and intake port is the most critical on the short side, remove a valve and run your finger in there, you will feel a sharpish ridge that needs to be smoothed. Removing the exhaust lumps also helps. Dont make the ports any bigger as it will reduce gas velocity. (unless its a all out drag engine) A basic port cleanup can go a long way. Sure you can make good power without all this, need more power, run more boost, then again wouldnt you prefer to make it with lower boost levels and a turbo coming on quicker and stronger ....

Theres your problem, your pedal grabs too close to the floor, its not disengaging the clutch fully so your struggling to put it into gear. Should be a shaft and locking nut above the clutch pedal, undo the locking nut and lengthen the shaft.

If drag racing the design of the frontal sump setup is working against you, on hard launches oil will move to the rear when you need it forward. Even gated and higher capacity is no guarantee that enough oil will remain over the pickup for long enough, most of the top level of oil will try to go over the baffel towards the rear. A hard 4WD drag launch on sticky rubber is heaps of g force. Idealy the sump should have been designed on the rear. We have a freind with a drag racing Supra that logs oil pressure, on the launch and next 2 gear changes logs recorded the oil pressure dropping to zero before he woke up to what was happening......

We have a 9 liter sump and will be using one also. You can never be too careful when it come to maitaining oil pressure, all you need is that one time you kept the revs up and pooled oil into the head to run the sump dry or high g forces to move the oil around and uncover the pickup. Its good insurance.

Location?

You may have bent the boxes input shaft when removing or fitting the box. Your not supposed to let the box hang on the engine when slightly out, all the boxes weight is then on the input shaft which can bend it. Was the clutch pressure plate tightened evenly in a criss cross fashion? You can also bend the pressure plate cover which can do the same thing. Last thing was all the protective oil coating removed from the pressure plate and flywheel cleaned? No grease put on the input shaft or thrust bearing that can get flung onto the clutch plate?

Slack? Route on mine is ike yours but on the underside of the guard mine runs through the wiring loops and along the wiring harness. Once its connected to the latch mechanism its fine.

Do they work with the haltech?

Pm me pics

Its possible to put it into a grilled or fluted box surround to protect it.

On the subject of the E85 getting warm, run a cooler under the car where the airflow can cool it and splice it into the return line (low pressure side). Vehicles like M3's use that setup.

Crimp joiners.

Thats my old write up, unsure what happened to all the pics. Never caused us a issued, worked just fine, i could get the car to idle anywhere i adjusted it to.

Just call Jim and tell him your upgrading to 400Kw, he may even be able to rebuild and upgrade your old one to do it, he has no issues build clutches to handle far more power than that if needed.

I be questioning the engine builder how he is going to run 11.5, over 30psi and achive it with removing the squish pads from both sides of the combustion chamber to handle those power levels and DET and still remain at 11.5. Oh hell, did i just drop a spanner in all the works by saying that? There is someone in the US from memory who has a CNC machined open cumbustion chamber design with a custom domed piston to suit, still not near where your engine builder wants to be compression wise. Most builds in your power bracket are running flat tops with open chambers, so very low compression then winding copious amounts of boost into them, usually in the low 8 compression ratio. If your engine builder wants 11.5, ask him for the piston part number or to organize to get it custom made......

Ripps is running 1300Hp on RB25 studs, they only went to RB26 when chasing 1400hp, no oringing the blocks either. Use the ARP lube or else your torque will be way off and use a multi layer steel Head gasket. Watch this, may explain to why not to use oil and why to use the right stuff....

Melbourne txt me 0411184963

Id agree with the Tomei one being the most highly recomended one. Im surprised you wernt offered a Nitto one Scotty....not up to it or they dont have one for your engine?

Mobile On car disc machiners charge workshops $15 per rotor here in Melbourne.