GTRPSI

Centerline Suspension in Thomastown. http://www.centrelinesuspension.com.au/

I have a oem copy grill for $100 brand new

Remove the plugs, let the water drain in and crank it with the plugs removed, it will spit all the water back out, common method used on water logged engines, after a few seconds of cranking all the water will be kicked out. Never put the plug back in with water inside, nice way to bend a rod or make a hole in the side of the block if the rod snaps.

Look at the Nitto stroker kits, some good results with them too.

If your having transfer case slip Scotty you can sort it out with a new clutch pack arrangement (rearrange the order that the factory plates sit Mod) so it comes on firmer without slip. Im getting another transfer case from Barry (birthday freebie) to mod mine, might be/should be enough plates left over to do another case. Will show Barry how its done after i do mine so he can start offering the service. (If your too lazy to do it yourself)

Very hard to tell some copies, ive had both side by side. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/444211-ebay-plenum-for-rb26/

Stock manifold design tends to let #6 run leaner, get the better manifold and flow test your injectors then run the highest flowing injector on #6.

All the Nascar builders are using it. I have spoken to a cryo treater about it but decieded i wouldnt use it, i ended up partially grout filling the block for strength instead.

That was something shown in the demo there that night. Were you there Birds? Setup was a fuel pump running in a large clear glass jar, pumping through a ethanol tester hooked up to a display, feeding back into the jar. About 2-3 liters of ethanol in the jar (guessing), reading E85, poured in about 200-300 ml of petrol only (guessing again) and it dropped to E40 or below. Or maybe a better perspective is about 10" of E85 in the jar and adding less than 1" of 98 to it to get it down to under E40. Not hard to reproduce on a test bench. I also wouldnt have believed it without seeing it, it goes against all logic or what i originally thought which was much the same as you. It seemed to be known by a few people there already running it, i never would have though that it was possible until i saw it with my own eyes. It was very eye opening and educational, i never knew the Ethanol sensor read whats NOT Ethanol, you could piss in your tank to turn up the Ethanol sensor readings. Again, add water to the jar and watch the E85 reading start climbing..... The only concern i had after that night with E85 was the hydroscopic nature of the fuel and the ability of the E85 sensor to read higher than usualy Ethanol content because of water, you would hate to have your flex tune read a high ethanol content because of water in the tank. Eye opening, has not put me off the fuel, only educated me a little more and made me rethink storing the car and what to do about the fuel sitting there as its not a daily.

Just mentioning what they had seen, customers fitting orings like that without issues in the past because 98 disolved it but E85 reacted differently leading to engine failure. I was surprised i didnt see your face there scotty, spewing your wernt there for some myth busting.

Thanks for the informative evening. The E85 sensor lesson and how it reads was a eye opener, especially when they turned E85 to E100 by just adding water to the fuel......and the amount of tanks of E85 to run to clean out the 98 and get back to a higher ethanol content. And the oring lube that turned to jelly and blocked the injectors leading to engine failure. Certainly made me rethink the route im taking to fuel setup.

I always thought they were exactly the same thing relabled when i was looking into them.

Ferrera is easy to get from OS, try realstreet, they are quick and reliable. http://realstreetperformance.com/Shop-by-Engine/Build-Your-Head_24/

Can you attend if not a paid up club memeber? I wouldnt mind picking up a few pointers on the night.....

Your not that far away now on 98 correct? Nah you never said 400Kw...but your going to end up around it by the looks of things if you go E85. I thought i heard Stef mention your were fiitting a E85 sensor to yours at JAK (or am i mixing you up with someone else)? Yes RB's are strong, but get the revs up and thats when the strain starts to show, note Scotts comments about the engine he lost on E85 at 3K, allbeit with 1UZ stock rods. @ Scotty, What do you think it was, the slow burn of the E85 putting out too much cyllinder pressure/torque on the rods, what sort of numbers were seen around the RPM when it popped, or do you think the rod was stressed from a previous dyno run when at song and bound to fail on the next run? Bah, its only oil and frag to be cleaned, as long as any metal didnt meet any customers cars nearby, probably hear all about it next week. Is your EVO back on the road?

Sorry to hear about the failure Scott, where were you tuning it? Khaled, where are you getting yours tuned? Edge? I think your pushing your luck on a stock bottom end....once your around 400Kw on a RB26 and its a stock bottom end its no longer the tuner, some serious physics start to come into play, rod bolts stretch, big ends and piston pins start deforming, factory piston ring lands can only take so much. Better talk to Barry about the costs of a forged bottom end before you fry it and end up with the car off the road and a big repair bill......your walking into high risk unchartered territory IMHO. Then again you and Stef never listen to anyone anyway.

LOL looks like your the guniea pig.

It has been done, there are a few posts about it in the forum.

Opening port diameters will slow down gas velocities, in effect giving slower than normal gas flow speeds. Too small can also be a restriction, its a balance point.

LOL Thats why im taking my time putting it back together again, cant trust both of you buggers.

Khaled, still not reving it? Just make sure Stefan never drives it. (unless you want to spin a bearing)

A copy of the email from the people who Quafie directed me for parts....i was chasing a bigger input shaft for ours for drag racing. Hi Peter I'm not sure I have much to tell you in a positive way, sorry ! We made that kit between 1992 and 2001, there were many changes made to it over the years, Here is a short answer to your questions ; 1. yes, we can still supply all the parts. The easiest way to quote, is to give me the part no. from the old item. Most of them start E3F1 and then two or three more digits, Numbers are stamped onto nearly everything apart from small parts and bearings 2. Bear in mind this kit fits into the stock casing This means gears are stock diameter. It also means ultimate power handling is restricted Probably to about 750 hp at the flywheel. We have a much newer much stronger sequential 6 speed far more capable of power in the 1000hp area. In my opinion, unless you have less than 750hp and dont mind a potential waiting time for spare parts then you are wasting your time with this kit. It was made so as to achieve 300kmph in time trials in Japan, not as a drag race or high strength kit. Anybody claiming to handle more than that power through stock diameter gears is talking BS. There is at least one manufacturer out your way claiming that !! Hope I can help you further kind regards Website... http://www.specialvehicle.co.uk/ Though i might share some info from the horses mouth about the 6 speed H pattern Quaife/Trust Dog boxes.

What brand is it? I think mine was closed when i tested it, if slightly cracked open it could be a air bleed function so you dont end up having it open and a buch of air enter your motor when you needed oil. I might get it out tomorrow and take another look, its packed in a box somewhere....

I contacted Quafie and they put me onto the people who they made the boxes for, all parts are still avaliable, they also told me each part internally has a part number stamped on it, you just contact them with the part number, so to make it clear everything is still avaliable for the boxes and they also made it clear that they will continue to support parts for them.

Some controlers do seperate front and rear, or in other words turn it into permenent RWD when needed on R32 models. When running in RWD you can have different circumferance tyres front and back. Problem is when you do try feeding some power to the front, you can never do this when 2 circumferance tyres are used without something binding up due to the diffrent tyre rotation speeds. So on R32 GTR's you should never do this unless your planning to always stay RWD. Methods to turn a R32 GTR into RWD are to pull the 4WD fuse or switch the igintion off and on while its rolling or fit a controller and pray no one accidentally switches it back to 4WD if your tyre circunferances are different.