GTRPSI

What size is the intercooler?

So your talking about bogging down on launch? Yep more RPM. And a little tip, dont run a lightened flywheel, it makes life worse, heavy flywheels add momentum and push to the driveline to get you out of the hole.

Hot 90 PSI is safe if your running your final weight of oil. If your running a thinner oil now and it goes up on the thicker oil after run in, its a tomie pump, its extenally adjustable, you can adjust the relief pressure..... Also judge you final oil pressue based on oil temp, not engine temp. Some loose engines can take up to half an hour of driving and more to get oil temps up to water temp.

.003" is loose, run 50-60 weight synthetic oil once your bedded in, however run in on mineral oil only, a lower weight is fine for run in, your not doing full power/RPM loads during run in. Yes lay into the engine, however..... Lay in is not rev the bejesus out of it, keep RPM well under half of redline at the start and boost levels very low, remember at first with a fresh hone, a lot of heats going to be generated while the rings rip into the fresh hone, increase revs and load as you progress. But dont pussy foot it either, the rings will slowly remove the peaks of the hone and never bed in properly. You need highish cylinder pressures to push the rings against the bores to get a firm pressure on them to the walls to bed them in, dont rev the living daylights out of it or you will generate too much heat and glaze the bores in the process. Progressivly build the revs as bed in continues, less hone peaks means it can take more without generating too much heat, that takes time and needs to be done progressivly. Getting on the power aids ring bed in, getting off the power and slowing down under its compression cleans the grit off the bores from the power run. Yes the link provided above my post is good.

Use the later block with the water and oil outlets on the hot side, they also have a flat tensioner area in the front. Earlier ones have the oil and water outlets cast on the block but not drilled and tapped to take fittings, some also dont have a flat tensioner area on the front where the water pump is. Block is 38mm taller so expect to extend your piping. There is a well written detailed write up on it, study it.... http://stevenwelsh.site.net.au/RB30_DOHC.pdf

The weight of oil you use really comes down to the driving style and clearances used on the build. For factory clearances on a street engine the standard weight works best, push it a bit and i go up 1 weight. I only run 50-60 weight oil on super loose builds for drag or track......i cannot fathom why anyone would be running such a thick oil on tight clearances. Has anyone thought about oil drain back issues when running thicker oils? Better have those oil returns drilled out and good crankcase venting to help oil drainback. Even modern Nascar engine builders are running tighter bearing clearances these days with some pretty thin oil weights in their race engines.

GTR?

Injectors can be removed, numbered and flow tested. Carefull analasis can hint/assist towards what happened on tear down, there are lots of hints like the color for the burn in the combustion chambers and spark plugs, Det marks etc....

More a case of the one that runs the leanest due to manifold design. Most workshops when flow testing injectors automatically put the largest flowing one on number 6 when dealing with RB26's as a precaution......

What car is it going into? Thats the main point, also use the later blocks with the oil and water feeds drilled out, the tensioner area is also flat which makes life easier.

Because thats what professional workshops do when a unknown engine rolls up and the customer asks for a zillion Kw. They pull the plugs, get a bore scope out and checkout the condition and whats inside. Without knowing if the bottom end is built, would you lay into it? Knock sensors can only tell you so much, a pulled ring land can happen without much knock on a stock piston.

What pipe diameter (internal) was your 6boost?

Nah, 26 block is no stronger or weaker than a 30 block, do what everyone does and do a partial grout fill for ridgitidy. If anything the 26 block has oil squirters and the block grove for extra mains oiling already there, i wouldnt jump to a 30 block just for 500Kw. Good Oil pump is a must in any RB build as is oil control mods. You can get 400-450Kw with a set of low mount -5 and E85....

Lots of DET, it can be removed from the head with a head skim. Id say you may have some broken rings going by the bore marks and DET marks on the pistons.

bump

If the granules have disolved the water will look rusty and foamy...

If the workshop and tuner is worth half a grain of salt, they will have a scope to checkout the pistons if they are forged and a good set of knock sensors to read whats happening while tuning. If they see stock pistons they should know what time of day it is.....

Rust and white foam? I wonder if someone threw a can of bars leaks inside?

Its a earth, pure and simple, if you want to run it, ground it to metal.

Sounds right, blockem if you dont need em.

Or the crank grub screws were not put in.....hows the rod bearings?

Vent the sump blowby straight out of the sump to a catch can. Its about equalizing sump and head blowby pressure, while the blowby wants to run up the oil drains to the cover breathers the oil cannot drain back down in a nut shell...

Power is made in the head, of all places dont skimp there....

Yep, the person who fitted it thought it was a drain though by running it under the hot side, if of any use should have been turned the other way and run to the cold side as a breather. Yes very redundant these days, there are better ways around this.

We ended up getting a 6boost twin scroll with twin gate and ceramic coating, a very nicely made manifold.