GTRPSI

You grind it, you really should rebalanced it in a performance situation. I think your answers are all there now

Depends on how much you take off, its only a thin surface finish. I wouldn't bother renitriding, if your running a little more power one grind down is fine, if you running more drop another crank in. If its a R31 with a Rb30, get another crank, heaps around for next to nothing.....would cost more to re nitrate the old crank than to buy another good second hand one. My original RB30 crank was one size down on my build, i didnt want to take the risk, got another perfect one that only needed a light linish for $80 and it was already grub screwed.

Thats where the power starts to happen and you need cooling.

When twin charged i was thinking compound charging, first stage a supercharger, then the turbo. That ones a nut case.

Nope, engine is planned for 1/4 mile with minimal street use, has a partial grout fill also with cooler nismo thermostat. Reason for the pump is we dont want cavitation of the water at higher RPM's.

Its a difficult point to argue with for and against arguments. We are dropping a 26/30 into a 32 GTR, and i agree fitment is going to be a pain in the arse. Then there is the legality side of it which many people miss, get pulled over with a 26/30 in a GTR and your stuffed, hell of a job and cost to put it all back to standard to keep it registered..... My personal opinion is if its street registered go for a stroker, just dont push its output, be reasonable in power expectations and it will live a long life. If your deadly serious about pushing, stuff the legalities, go RB30 and live with the fitment and avoiding legal issues, make sure it only comes out on nights with no moon light ......just my opinion anyway....

All piston to bore clearances set to the aftermarket piston manufacturers specs, no abnormal piston rock on TDC or BDC. Top and bottom of bores looked perfect, around the center the bores looked perfect opposite and beside the marks, a oval 1.5" to 2" width ways and around a 3" top to bottom way thrust mark on the bores on the power push side, pistons around the center of the gudgeon pin almost top to bottom of the shirts with similar witness marks around the same width. Edit, added....Bore Mark starts off narrow and light, as it gets wider it looks deeper into the cross hatch, as it leaves it narrows and lightens again. I suggested on the rebuilds to anti friction coat the piston skirts to help cope with the extra side loading in future....somethings got to be better than nothing....

Rod stroke ratio can play a big part in it. Recently ive looked inside 3 engine at the bores and pistons, all 1000+ Hp motors, a RB28 stroker, a 2JZ 3.4 stroker and a RB30 standard stroke. Both the strokers showed excessive side wall loading wear on the bores and pistons on the thrust side, right about in the middle of the piston travel point in the bores, the RB30 looked the least wear by a long shot. Until i had seen it i wouldn't have believed how much of a difference it makes.....

I ended up fitting a Protex Gold series water pump for our GTR. Ended up being a 6 blade N1 version, the Gold series are stamped made in Japan including Jap bearings. I get them for $66 each through my supplier.

Most immobilizers let it crank, but wont let it start. Maybe a bad earth to the engine or faulty barrel? Is yours a manual and have a clutch pedal lockout to start like the R34 GTR's? If so could even be that switch....wont let it crank....

In plain English, a bracket welded onto one side of the mounts steel bracket that reaches out and curves over to the other sides steel bracket with a few mm of space before it contacts the other side for movement. Under normal driving the rubber cant stretch enough to make contact, under hard driving the plate will contact the other side and make a solid stop. Sort of like a C section welded to one side and leave a few mm of gap to the other side. On old school engines we use to fabricate something like a alternator bracket, fix one end to the chassis, the end with the large adjustment slot was positioned on a bolt on the head with a gap to move, as the engine twisted the bolt on the head could move in the slot till it reached the end and stopped, we use to call them torque straps. It allowed engine movement but only so far. Im not a fan of modern engine dampners, very flimsy units when pushing big power, more show than go.....

Ive had polyurethane engine mounts in another car. All i will say is when i started the car in the garage, the windows at the back of the house were shaking, the first drive all i remember thinking was my fillings were about to fall out and everything outside the windscreen was a blur from the vibrations. I didnt make it 200m down the road before turning back to put the rubber mounts back in.... If your worried about mounts breaking you can mod factory mounts to interlock when on big power or build a torque strap.

I wonder if some spacers under the gearbox cross member to chassis with longer bolts will solve your issue....get the engine to lean back a little lower.

Exactly.... Stop counting teeth. Find TDC by finding the top of the piston travel on Cyl 1 by removing a plug and feeling down the plug hole (if you dont have a dial indicator), then check your harmonic balancer mark to make sure the balancer outer wheel has not slipped and is lining up where its supposed to be. Then look at your cam gears, intake side cam gear dot should be at the 9 o'clock mark and lining up with the mark on the cover, exhaust gear dot should be at 3 o'clock and also lining up with the dot on the rear cover. If they are adjustable cam gears, the scales should both be at 12 o'clock.

Senders are known to fail, happened to us on our RB26, changed it and everything back to normal.

If you try the Bendix as suggested, i can guaranty you will be throwing both rotors and pads out after 20K Km, they are that aggressive on rotors, but yes, very quiet, learnt that the expensive way, $900 full vehicle setup all undersized and in the bin in less than a year on the wifes car, and she drives like a granny. Once you have glazed the rotors, you bedding in wont help much, they are glazed, end of story, Your rotors are not RDA, you mentioned they are cross drilled, RDA dont produce a cross drilled rotor, theirs are dimple drilled to avoid cracking. How did the workshop identify the noise is between the pads and rotors? Most noise if from between the pistons, caliper body ends with the pad rubbing against them. All spring shims need to be tensioned correctly, if not your letting the pad bounce around. Hence the suggestion by Excalba, we normally use copper grease on all contact points such as piston and leading and trailing edges of the pads (not on the pad to rotor contact surface). We also grind a bigger leading and trailing 45 degree edge on pads to assist them from bouncing and making noise when the pistons push them into the rotors, sort of creates a gentle ramp for when they make contact. We also find the dustier the pad, the less noise. Having said all that we run EBC Red Stuff Ceramic compound on all but 1 car, none of them ever made a single noise except one, always the front right caliper for the first 1500Km, ive checked everything left right and center, this time i upgraded to Yellow stuff, rated to 900 degrees on that car, dusty as hell but the front right noise has gone and never returned from the moment i put them in.

Could be lumpy because of the tune, a lot of lump can be pulled out by tuning.

It means your cam timing is out 1 tooth. Take off the front cover, rotate the engine to top dead center, cam gear marks should line up with rear cover marks exactly. If the gears are out 180 degrees, rotate the engine one more revolution, 1 crank rotation = 180 degrees of cam rotation. If its wrong, your out X amount of teeth, you need to loosen the cam belt and reposition your cams the right way.

Run a pipe from where the breather was to between your turbo and air filter. There is vacuum in that area when on the power so you get a free scavenging effect too.

Depends what you want to do, or how far you want to go. Does a normal power FC have launch control, antilag, ability to run on a MAP sensor, spark cut RPM limiter and the ability to simply add extra devices through expansion ports. (not talking Jetro or Pro series Power FC) None of which should be needed on a normal street tune GTR....but needed if your getting serious or you have $ tied into your engine. We went with the Haltech Platinum Pro because it opens a range of future possibilities, even something as simple as the race dash pays for its self, no need for expensive gauges and mounting, warning high low limits can be set on a wide variety of things your monitoring or worried about. Having said all that, Power FC covers what most people need day to day, good thing is they are getting cheap because newer ECU's which are in demand like the Haltech, i wouldn't hesitate to run a Power FC on a mildly worked daily driver.

There are a few threads, all with different suggestions/methods in the RB30 section. From using spacers under the cross member to steering shaft spacers to cutting the bonnet, some even remove the clutch booster and use a different clutch slave with spacer. We are doing the same build right now for our 26/30 R32 GTR. Edit, Forgot to add, port matching always helps, all depends on how far you are going or are prepared to look at details.

Ive heard the Gates racing ones are prone to amplify the timing scatter issues, something to do with the meshing into the wheels which may be explained by the noise produced.

The Brembos, the DBA and the RDA rotors are all from ching chong land, if you think the brembos are from Italy, your mistaken, we personally know the person with the Brembo contract for Australia and also know because we sell rotors and pads for a living. My only advice is stay away from cross drilled rotors which are prone to crack. Biggest effect on the rotor is the pads you chose.

I noticed your user name and that you had a R32 GTR, so im assuming your doing a RB30 bottom end? If so, before you go any further, the Greddy plenum will hit your clutch master, there are work arounds, or a few ways to do it but if your only going to 500Kw you may as well stay with the factory item, it does still work well. Yes 6 can lean out, or run leaner, quick cheap way is get your injectors flow tested and put the highest flowing one on number 6. Otherwise 6 EGT probes on the manifold will do the trick......as will getting the tuner to run injector 6 a little longer.

Run one to the ignitor module on the coil pack cover, Nissan already have a pissy one there, run another one to one of the 3 other bolts holding it down, leave the factory one where it is.