GTRPSI

You need to lean into the motor gradually and stay away from any synthetic oil for the first few thousand Km. Load the engine, you need pressure to push the rings onto the bore to bed them, idling does nothing but take the peaks off the hone without bedding in the rings. I recon go back to a mineral oil and lay into it a bit, hopefully most of the cross hatch should still be there. Also check your mixtures, if your running rich, expect to see your oil contaminated with petrol, its not a good thing to wash the oil off with fuel on the bores, not a good start to the engines life.

So ask your machinist.....he set it up. If you want to quieten it down you could always get new bigger pistons and rings and rebore/hone it correctly or friction coat the piston skirts which takes up a little clearance.

Just to help the OP, ive got a genuine Greddy and had a ebay/china copy side by side. You had to look really hard to spot the differences, runners, diameters, everything identical, slight differences in casting lines...very slight. Would come down to the quality of the alloy IMHO. Ive met and spoken with a Chinese manufacturer that makes them, as he said to me with any part, supply me with the brand name original and ill copy it for a fraction of the price and you wont tell the difference. And just to throw a spanner into the works, he was offering them to me for $US 80 dollars each 2-3 years ago, no wonder there are so many copies out there......

Forgive my ignorance. Abs only kicks in when the wheel sensors pickup a wheel locking. So you want to stop quicker, and you think you will do so with a locked wheel by going beyond the ABS threshold? What am i missing? Now i could understand if you were rally driving and wanted to have a wheel lock for weight and balance control reasons.......in those cases you need to be able to have a lock to slide when needed for weight and balance control but your grip driving, not sliding. Anyone observing your vehicle under braking to see what the tyres are saying from the outside, are your tyres locking and unlocking? If so look at your brake balance, pad compounds and tyres.

Yep, my feeling is it may have just been backfire or combustion leaving the intake side. If it did fire backwards while starter was cranking it would have just stopped the engine and not damaged the starter, seen and built heaps of old school dizzy engines, too much timing and it just wont crank, acts like a dead battery, starter cant push against it, wont spin backwards. (or didnt on the ones i did) Can we change the subject now?

How i remember it is 40 thou is 1mm so your correct in saying 0.1mm is 4 thou or 1/10th of 1mm.

Compression was tested and perfect after cam gears were repositioned, dyno tune was done and it produced some excellent results. Its just that the owner couldn't help himself giving it the beans with the antilag and blew the new clutch before he had bedded it in. LOL I didnt see them trying to start it but yes could have run backwards......cas position would have been 90 degrees out too.

I think what scotty saw was backfire out of the intake due to the timing.

If your doing like in the clip above your clearances are OK, your issue is in the oil weight used and pump setup you selected. Hopefully just the oil weight will sort you out to something a bit better. Did you shim up the oil pressure relief valve for a bit more pressure before you closed the engine?

Im also old school and only use plastigauge for double checking, its a guide only and not accurate, i also use a bore gauge but i also back it up on mockup stage with a plastigauge to double check myself, much like yourself, you can never check enough, it only takes a small error of not having the bore gauge setup correctly to get it wrong, thats where platigauge is a good secondary measure but remember its not accurate and a guide only. We had our machinist set up my clearances while the block and crank were in to my specs, got it home and started a few mock assemblies, used a platsigauge to double check clearances and found the rods at .002" when i specified .003". Got my bore gauge out, yep he was off, had to go out and get some X stamped ACL bearings and mix and match them with the stock sized ones while checking with my mike for accuracy, finally double checked one more time with plastigauges. Turned out he had the apprentice set up my clearances after going over to let them know it was wrong...... the apprentice didnt know how to properly zero a bore gauge..... So plastigauges can be good for the obvious, but they are not accurate enough for fine detail, great for catching obvious error though.

I see your issue its in your specs however you do have enough pressure for a street engine, 10 PSI per 1000 is right however your idle pressure should be a little higher, on the RPM side your OK. When running around.003" clearances this is typical, those clearances are for all out race engines. We have just built our bottom end with similar clearances, however..... You want to be running at minimum a 50 weight of oil, if not 60 weight ideally, those clearances are far too loose for a 40 weight of oil, we will be running straight 60 weight (not multi grade) oil on .003" clearances. Second part is in your oil pump, a stocky with reimax gears, in our case we used a Tomie pump, reason being was the external oil pressure adjustability for pressure control combined with more volume. Start testing with a thicker oil and report back......try a 25-50 oil for starter if its a streeter with those clearances. Im also assuming the clearances were checked properly with a mike and not plastigauges......

What ECU are you testing? From a R34 GTR? Sounds like the wrong ECU for your vehicle or its got a short inside somewhere.

Yep saw the same one as you Scotty, the issue was they were black tomie cam gears and the dot was not highlighted in white, silly bugger set them up like 2Jz gears not seeing the dot. When i got home i looked at my gears and the dots had a dab of white paint on them, go figure, maybe not genuine tomie cam gears? I had a backup set of valves on my bench if he needed them, didnt in the end, it surprised me. That car ended up back on the hoist a few days later, they had setup antilag on it and a new clutch, owner spent the next day doing launches showing his mates and destroyed the clutch, never gave it a chance to bed in properly.....

Bump

Just some hot spots. Im using the word some loosely.

Speaking of the devil, saw him assembling a Mitsubishi engines oil pump and about to bolt it on today in the engine room when i popped in. I wonder whos crap that was? Must have been your build he was talking about then Daz., either which way you go with your build, your in good hands.

Lets just say im building it myself with Barry from Edge motorworks finger prints all over it, hes a mate of ours, we help out each other. The guy builds some serious Hp RB and 2JZ's..... If you want to step up a level in block strength get a inch to inch and a half of grout fill in the block, next step up is a N1 block, next step up again in a N1 block with partial grout fill if staying 26.

I think Mines did that for better acceleration on their R34. What gear and RPM are you hitting when entering the end of a drag run? Too low RPM and it may help you on the 1/4, it can also hinder you as much as help as you will out of puff quicker in each gear, may variables you need to look at. We know of a few Honda S2000's that have changed the diff ratios for better acceleration, works good till 60-80, then from that point our stock gears in the same car just drive right past them....

Its there for the drivers following behind to say "wow", dont mess with this Skyline.

Most likely a bent subframe. We had a few mm of discrepancy on ours (R32 GTR), can be fixed with adjustable upper and lower arms, especially helps if you want the whole wheel in or out more for the right offset.

Nah, hes bullet proof and a damn good engine builder, he just needed to see the unseen small details, my parting words to him today were talking the owner into a stroker and save both yourselves a world of pain. Or at least buy A B and C for the build to minimize the fab and custom work. (ie not like the way we did) Depending on how far the owner wants to go it can me done with minimal pain, weld and reposition the rear sump holes (you could probably do that yourself), buy a proengines adapter plate with pickup already made, just extend it a little if going deeper sump (again something you could do) follow the templates for the grinding, upper deck takes 10 minutes with a angle grinder, tensioner can be done while the blocks being machined, internally its up to them, main key point is use the nitto rods with the built in squirters. The rest is really how far they want to go.....you dont need to use ARP main studs, the windage trays, RB26 main bearings, partial grout fill the block or open the oil feeds and drains (maybe do the drains...).....depends on how far it gets taken, the power to reliability goal..... What we are building is probably totally different to what his customer needs.

Not so easy as just buying a ready made built bottom end...... Is it going into a GTR? If so there is much more involved than just getting any old built one. Oil pickup mods, spacer plate, engine block mods for the spacer plate to bolt up and to clear the factory exhaust manifolds, sump rear bolt holes need to be welded up and repositioned, timing chain tensioner needs to be moved, block needs to be with oil and water feeds. And if you want to get serious about "built" there is a long "other" list, there's built to say its forged and there's built to say its really built to handle a GTR pushing power, 2 different things. For example our RB26/30 also has a partial grout fill to support the block for 4wd launches and provide extra cylinder bracing (they love splitting between cyl 3 & 4), main bearing tunnels are replicated to take RB26 bearings for extra oiling from the rear of the bearing shell, crank is grub screwed, rods used have squirters because RB30's dont have them on the block like RB26's, pistons are ceramic coated to assist with pulling heat away from the pistons because of the lack of those squirters, oil feeds drilled out to 8mm, oil returns out to 10mm, block internally deburred and coated to assist oil draining, sump modded for extra oil draining from rear to front, deepened, trap doors, breather fittings, modded ARP studs for the crank girdle to clear the 4WD tube, girdle drilled and tapped to take the GTR windage trays. I could go on....there's more..... Yes you can save a packet buying a basic built R30, but built how? Most likely will be a stock motor with just forged pistons and rods for a VL, wont even bolt together without the block to adapter plate work and oil pickup mods mentioned that could have been done starting from scratch. And if its a R32 GTR, have fun closing the bonnet, as i said, lots more than meets the eye. Get a builder to do it from scratch, or go stroker if its a RB26. Was talking to a engine builder about it today who asked me what was involved in the conversion in detail....showed him the pics, explained the details and issues and work arounds.....his eyebrows went up.....now he properly understands the conversion....will be coming over to see mine in detail if needed or asking me along the way.... You know who that was Scotty.

KU31 turned to crap once half worn on our Honda S2000 however were good when new, im not a fan of them.

Also put the lube supplied on the upper threads (not in block), both sides of the washers and under the nuts. In other words all contact points.

First calculate your valve to piston clearance before removing anything from the head, you may end up needing a thicker headgasket when you realize the error. Id love 9.1 compression, however in my case ill be unshrowding the valves around the combustion chamber and actually dropping compression because of it.....then if room, going for a thinner headgasket after checking valve to piston clearance.