GTRPSI

Looks like the woodruff key is at a slight angle and has moved inwards causing extra stress on the cranks snout. Id say the balancer was moving on the crank and the vibration caused it to crack. Ive heard similar about Ross dampners, that why we went with a ATI one from the start.

9.5 Should be a walk in the park for E85, there are engines out there running more compression and boost with that fuel. You will need to calculate your compression ratio, take some measurements of your deck height, piston dome volume, head gasket thickness and cc your combustion chambers, then just do the maths.

No idea of the OS tooth profile and gear diameter compared to the Quaife one. At the end of the day i may send it off for shot peening, i might ask Quaife if its already been done to it before i pull it out, good suggestion that it may have already been treated, that didn't cross my mind. I have sent them a email asking if they make a larger input shaft, just waiting for a answer. I spent last night researching getting a larger shaft made up, i noticed PPG mentioned they can custom make parts, will see how i go with Quaife first, then contact PPG about sending my sample to them and getting the shaft replicated to suit the Quaife gears in their larger input chev truck shaft size, hopefully they might be able to do it.

I will be sending Quaife a email this weekend to see what they say, somehow i dont think they will have it but i will try. My thoughts on the 2 suggestions above, which have already run through my head before i posted.... Cryo treatment. My thoughts are that any strengthening of the input shaft steel metallurgy will only make it more brittle and prone to crack more easily. Possibly with a auto where the shock loads are less (as explained by GTSboy on autos) it may be a good thing, however i am suspicious to how well it would hold up in a 600Kw at all 4, 4WD manual application with a high clamp load clutch cover in a drag racing application with sticky rubber. Making the metal stronger in my eyes, makes it more brittle, however my level of expertise in this area is old school self taught, happy to listen to corrections to my train of thoughts in this matter, my mind is open to suggestions (and education by those who know more). Shot peening and stress relieving......there's something we use to do before after market rods were around. Again, a surface depth treatment, better than standard for sure, however i dont believe it will be enough for our application. Id be more inclined to shot peen as it improves the fatigue cracking resistance over Cryo which could produce a brittle part. Im still thinking just getting a larger diameter billet input shaft may be the answer......just a question of where to go to get one made up.

Picked up a Quafie/Trust 6 speed dog box to use with our GTR build and i am thinking of changing the input shaft to something stronger knowing that its a weak link with drag racing. Ive heard that the shaft sizes can be increased to Chev size and spline, we can get Jim Berry to change our clutch center to suit. Interested to know of any recommendations for who to see for a larger/stronger billet input shaft to get made up. Thanks in advance.

I remember reading somewhere about dry solder joints inside. Could explain why it goes on when tapped. I have not had time to open my one up and go around with a solder iron yet, im pretty sure thats all it probably is, pain in the butt not having everything working.....

Can you elaborate on the getting a gear shift lever made up? I was unaware of that issue.... Thank your your wise words. Will hunt for the clip later tonight.

New reverse gear has been fitted (guess why), and its a H pattern. PT7175 on a 26/30 with E85, what power i plan to get and what i really get may be 2 different things, so no results to speak of yet as engine bottom end is going through assembly right now. Just got it minus the transfer case, im going to rearrange the plates in our old transfer case (transfer case mod) and bolt it on, its been rebuilt, sitting near me right now waiting for the new engine to be finished..... Spent yesterday gaping the rings, bottom end should be assembled next weekend when i find some time. Not intended as a daily, more a 1/4 mile and Saturday night special, just put some ear plugs in if too loud.

Probably gay porn. Best prints and DNA will be on the porn.....

We ended up with a Quaife/Trust 6 speed straight cut dog box, will be interesting to see how long it holds up. My money is on the input shaft going first.....

Recipe for disaster.....This is coming from a 50 year old father.....what i would tell my own son in this case.... You dont know much about cars, fair enough, not everyone does. You need to borrow to buy the car, now thats a worry because you may be off the road repairing it, as you said you dont know much so you will be paying for a workshop to do it while paying off the car. (unless your father is like me and will do all the work for you) You have a baby, owning a Skyline will cost you more than providing for a kid. You want 600Hp.....go have another 2 kids, its cheaper.

Undo the bolts gradually and evenly so you dont bend/warp anything. As Ben said it wont shoot off.....

Will be there Sat around midday to stir him up a bit. Might need to talk to you about our fuel system soon.......need knowledgeable help in that department...... Will give him a dig in the ribs about your engine when i see him.

Make sure you degree them and set them to the paper specs that came with them, then note what your cam gears are set at, whatever they are set at is your true zero degrees. Point being if you have shaved the head, played with gasket thicknesses, etc zero on the cam gears is not necessarily the true zero position of the cams in relation to the crank. Get a degree wheel and a dial indicator to do it properly.

Wasn't the Mercury Nitto R34 running a unopened RB26 for a while? Unsure what it was pulling with it.....

Lol wot ^

Center can be removed and replaced with engine still in.

Bump

Bump

Barry at Edge Motor works, workshop is full of Skylines and Supras, engine room is busy with RB's and 2JZ's. 3/17 Carrington Drive Albion 8361 9523 He knows his shit....

no sorry

Trying to remember where i saw a R32 GTR shell for sale tonight dirt cheap, might have been the buy sell here or gumtree......

You mean electric fans, instead of clutch fans. Many here will tell you the clutch fan works better, flows more air than the electric thermo fans. There was a thread about it a while back....

The wiring loom has lots of wires in that harness, are they the same colored wires appearing on the other end? Im thinking no.... Have a read here.... http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149292 here... http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177090 or just google HDI boost controller like i did. After doing some reading, my advice is check your earth and wiring, could be a bad connection, seems like they dont like bad connections. I also found some of their boost controller instruction manuals, but none with your solenoid, maybe have a deeper google.

Second picture is the R32 GTR factory boost controller...disconnected electrically going by the plug off. Looks like the hoses may be left on the solenoid for that stock look but may not have the other ends connected to anything.