GTRPSI

Before jumping the gun, pull the head off and take a look, it could just be the head gasket blown between 4 and 5 which would explain little to no compression between 2 adjoining cylinders. If Head gasket looks OK around the sealing ring, look at the bore, if that looks OK start pulling pistons and inspecting them.

Check your in box please.

If its 50 weight and only going to 75 with 20 thou it sounds a bit low. Did you check the clearances yourself or did you take for granted what the machinist said? In my case i gave my target clearances to the machinist, got the block home and double checked it myself while mocking up everything a few times and found he was miles out on the rods but spot on the crank mains. (i found out the machinists apprentice set them up after i went back to show them or so he claims) Otherwise sounds like oil pump shim time, which is why i used a Tomie pump, nothing beats being able to remove a cover nut and adjusting the pressure as needed.

EBC yellow or Blue stuff, still streetable and trackable, yellows are rated to 900 degrees, im currently running them in my ute but they are dusty, the GTR with the new engine is getting EBC Blue stuff, rated even higher again. I think Bendix Ultimates were rated to around 500 from memory or there abouts.

If you dont know the mixtures or pings its mechanical suicide, get it tuned. You cannot guess the timing, fuel pressure, etc, pings, mixtures advance etc need to be set so you dont blow the thing up.

Golden rule is you need 10psi for every 1000 rpm. Oil restrictor size does little for oil pressure down in the bottom end. What weight of oil are you running? What clearances are you running on the bearings? Are you running a aftermarket pressure gauge?

What's your phone number?

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Just measure the sway bar size you have and visit the Nolathane website to find it.

You mean the head bolts, if so 10mm.

Those hollowed out areas may have been better with a X left inside to reduce vibration flex/movement. Also the sensor does not look square to the cutout wheel, it may be level but your approaching the wheel from below the crank center line, probably the sensor would be better turned a few degrees right. Otherwise looks pretty good for someone having a go at home.

Im looking but cant see whatever your seeing, bores and pistons look OK, stock pistons, some uneven carbon build up is all that my eyes spotted, nothing drastic though. What am i supposed to have seen or missed?

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Are all the main bearings like that? Id be asking why, have you checked if the crank was straight on the last build? What were the clearances like on the old build? What weight oil were you running on those clearances? Im not a fan of regrinding cranks, you start removing the hardened outer coating, not something i like on power builds.

28mm front, 20mm rear. New is 30 and 22.....

Throw me offers people!

Please SMS the number for pics......

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SALE FALLEN THROUGH... PRICE DROP $1900 or best offer!!!

I thought the rubber plug Mitsu ones were R34 GTR. Are the engagement ends the same?

Ive been sitting back, not posting and having a chuckle while this thread has progressed.... Good that you spoke to some experts with real world experience, its always best to listen those that have done this before and got the results you were looking for. Yes porting is about the flow, bigger is not always better. As i said, your in good hands, im surprised you didnt just ask the right people in the first place. Looking forward to hearing your results when its ready, dont forget to post them.

There is one up our way, costs by the time you wire it all up etc are a bit steep, we were thinking to do the run in and basic tune on it and makes life simpler if you want to inspect the engine internally or work on it, in our case we are still unsure if its the right thing for us. Maybe. maybe not.....

Bonnet sold!

Cheers mate