GTRPSI

Those lobes must look like boxes, thats a amazing ramp rate with such a high lift on such a small duration. What do the -10's feel like on a 26/30 driving? Does it pull like a teenager watching porn?

Ive been lurking in that PPG thread of yours a few times now, seems to be the right way going by discussions. At the moment saving pennies and dimes, and trying to convince my son to do the change before the engine goes in, while he still has a box to work on before he blows it.

Precision 7175, come on Paul give me the bad news. On the other hand, give me directions for a good box that should hold up......

Prices are ONO. Nothing too stupid please

Hi all, I have some parts for sale. I was planning to use these on my 32R but have changed my mind. R32 GTR DMAX STYLE HOOD $650 AB-FLUG FRONT DIFFUSER COPY CARBON $375 R32 GTR EASTBEAR STYLE SIDE SKIRT EXTENSIONS (these go over factory skirts to give them the n1 look) These are carbon $340 R32 GTR TOMEI STYLE VENTED HEADLIGHT INTAKE IN FRP UNPAINTED $90 R32 GTR N1 BONNET LIP CARBON $185 R32 GTR N1 BOOT LIP CARBON $245 Thats all i can think of at the moment that i have here in the shed. All parts are brand new in the box still. Please PM me or contact me on 0411184963 I will reply sooner to txt. Plus i can send pics through on sms. Happy to post the items at buyers expense. Located in melbourne. Cheers!

Low grade bolt most likely then. So sorry to hear about the misfortune.....

Most likely most of the $600nz will be for the thicker buckets, and the rest for the clearancing, ask them whats in the $600.

The adapter plates come with a stencil that outlines where you have to grind on the block, you could seal off the crankcase and do it, but not something id feel comfortable doing. Dont forget to weld up the rear sump to tranny holes and redrill them as the sump will sit a cm lower and need those holes relocated a little. As usual XKLABA is spot on, a stroker is so much simpler and can keep the car legal.

Where did you get the stud from? When the relocation hole was drilled was it 100% square to the block? Ive seen these drilled out by hand, not square to the block and the stud goes on at a little bit of a angle, this could stress it.

The mods are easy, its just clearancing by grinding the head to clear the lobes and not a big $ factor, most people do this themselves at home, but what you do need to factor on is if they have a smaller base circle needing thicker buckets and the valve springs they recommend. Contact them and see what they say.

182-S sounds about there....270-274 10.5 lift....noted its good on E85 if you want to boost it..... http://www.camshaftshop.com/products.php?productid=41337 If you have a laggy turbo and want quicker spool 182-C, 272, 10mm lift. http://www.camshaftshop.com/products.php?productid=1021#specs The website has all the info. Id be leaning towards the S if racing and C if needing more street drivability.

I didnt read it about the 272, you mentioned you had been advised this and he is building your engine, sounds correct, i did read on the big high powered builds he goes 280 and up on the UK forum but he spins these harder, 8000+.

Just remember a 30 bottom end with a correct tune will absorb a lot of the lumpy idle of a 280 degree cam for the street. However if your going 7250 rpm, stay 274 degree and lower. The less duration, the harder it is to get a large lift without crazy ramp rates.... If you tell a cam grinder your winding 50+psi into it and spinning it a light speed and want a gigawatt of power expect something that will drive on the street like a dog, make sure you give the grinder realistic figures, specifications and expectations. Without wanting to offend anyone here, i only listened to the cam builders, Kelford has a lot of experience and development with 30's due to Rips, Camtech also has experience with them, after meeting the owner and having a discussion with them i learned their chief engineer was involved in the development of the Bathurst GTR's camshafts and many 26/30's for street, track and drag. One more thing to throw into the mix about large durations that you may not understand or is seldom spoken of, if its found to be a little too high in its RPM ceiling and your missing bottom end torque, its possible to advance the cams with adjustable cam gears to remove from the peak and add to lower down while your tuning it, or to move the power graph a little more down and to the left of the dyno sheet. Talk to the engine builder and cam grinders. If its Rob from Rips building your engine, your in very good hands for cam choice. Also that link i gave you for the 182-E cams, have a read of what is says, then think about what you asked for, a RB30, street, track and drag......but if your engine is going to stop around 7K, you may want less duration to help the bottom end torque. Edit, i just read that Rob advised on 272, which falls into the area we have been discussing.....

Depends on what the owner told the cam grinder. We gave our 2630 engine specs to both Kelford and Camtech, both came back with the exactly same answer, 280 degrees, 11.5 lift. All depends on what info you feed them, thats what they have to work from. On a side note RIPS has been known to use the 182-E very successfully in their builds, 280, 10.55mm http://www.camshaftshop.com/products.php?productid=1023 We ended up going Tomie Pro cams 280 11.5mm...... Much of it is how they are degreed in and the engine setup/build to work with them, we have a acquaintance that ran 280 11.5 in his 2JZ 3.4L Stroker, dyno gave up and couldn't read at over 1200Hp on his last tune, he does not take it over 8000, run in was at 800Hp. First tune with a smaller turbo... Fun on the smaller turbo.... He took it to the Snowy Mountains 1000 last year with a bigger turbo, highest top speed was his at 308Kph, but no traction being rear wheel drive, a R35 GTR was on top with the quickest time. Really does come down to what your planning to do with the engine, compression, fuel, boost levels, the list goes on. Yep on the street, stay with less duration if response and earlier power what your aiming for.......apples for apples.... If you want to drag and have a dyno queen with lots of boost, big cam duration, if you want to actually drive the thing comfortably on the street, don't do it, listen to what others are saying here, less duration will be your friend.

We can find out if its him, ask him if the police cars had GTR badges on them.

In your case, tracking the car, do you have a larger capacity deeper sump with trap doors? If so did you feel it still needed the extra oil to cover for pooling in the head with extra breathing mods done? Just interested in your angle of approach.....i like hearing of things from a different angle, might pickup something i didn't know or think of. There is always more than i way to skin a cat.

Up near the block flange is fine on the sump, no oil there, minimal if your turning sharp left and for some reason your under a lot of boost at the same time. Only hole ideal for a block breather is on the hot side, but im not a fan of running escaping gasses up the pipe that the turbo oil is trying to drain down from. Also wouldn't try boring a dirty big hole and tapping a thread on the cold side, too chicken to go that radical.

Whoever did that assumed it was to be used as a oil drain then. These days its been established that its a breather, usually run to the top of the sump, above oil level on the drivers side.

SOLD

bump

You get time to get the emissions test done, enough time to bolt in the most restrictive cat you can find and pass the test. If its just a sound test they wont be getting under and unbolting the cat to look inside.

Can you still run the aircon with your way? If yes, we were thinking about doing this, it was that question that made us avoid doing it. We were however seriously thinking of doing it that way.....im old, i needed my aircon. Having done through all the trouble of getting the pickup made, even if you told me now we can still run the aircon, im not changing anything, enough fab work for me thanks.

The oil pickup on the RB30 block when used with a RB26 sump sits right above the 4WD tube in the sump. If the RB30 Pickup is bolted to the block, when you put the sump on the 4WD tube will hit the pickup. So the first order of the day is the original RB30 pickup pipe needs to be shortened at the flange to sit further away from the 4WD tube. When you have done this you will notice that you cannot put the pickups flange bolt under the pipe on, 2 things need to be done, grind the head of the bolt down for clearance and cut out a notch in the flange so you can leave the bolt in and slide the assembly into position and then tighten the bold down. I even ground a old open end spanner down to make room to work in there. From there you can cut the rest of the RB30 pickup off closer to the strainer end and use the RB26 pickup and weld it on. Its a bit of mucking around, we just finished our pickup a few days ago to work with a Hi Octane 9L cast alloy sump, quite a bit of work to center it in the sump and get it exactly level and 6-7mm from the bottom. Took us a few goes, key point is tack weld as you go along to find the correct position for things and being long you may want to brace the pickup pipe, i braced it on the crank girdle.

Location?

Yes RDA7701 is 30mm thick. RDA7701 is the GTR rotor. There is no 32mm thickness version identical to that rotors hat size, hub hole size, PCD etc standard off the shelf.....