GTRPSI

If your tight, stay 26 bottom end. Its not exactly simple to fit a 30 in a r32 shell, block sits higher and bonnet closing issues where the turbo badge is on the pipe. By the time you factor in the adapter plate, welding the rear sump bolt holes, redrilling them, new pickup pipe, some small mods to the block like your knock sensors bolt holes and clearancing for the adapter plate, piping or joiners to reach a bit higher and the fact that its not legal, stay with the 26. If you spun a bearing, just get another crank with the long nose, some rods and pistons and your done, or just get a second hand working engine from a 33/34 (long nose crank drive) and just keep driving, your old engine being sold should cover the engine swap costs if your paying someone to do it for you.

Preloaded springs have the preload adjustment and ride height adjustment seperate. A few mm of preload is needed so on full stretch the spring is still under tension and not loose, if loose it could come of its seat and be noisy when going over bumps. Ride height is a seperate adjustment on better brands of coilovers. On the other hand cheap coilovers only have 1 adjustment, if running the car seriously low, when you jack it up the spring just sits there free and loose, this is not such a good thing.

Its a simple as piss job to do yourself. Seal kit... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-Skyline-Sumitomo-4-Piston-BRAKE-SEAL-REBUILD-KIT-Front-Disc-Brake-Caliper-/131114109959?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e87028c07 Piston if needed.... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-Skyline-300ZX-200SX-Sumitomo-4-Pot-BRAKE-PISTON-Front-Disc-Brake-Calipers-/131113002258?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e86f1a512 If its leaking from the join, did you seperate the 2 halves? There is supposed to be a oring in there and your not supposed to seperate the caliper halves. The bolts that join them are torque to yeild and not supposed to be touched......you cannot get new bolts but you could source a oring from a general pursose pack of rings.

Well have a think about the extra issues your going to have with defects and bills mounting up around you, you dont want to be adding fuel to the fire with a family now. At least you have a GTR before you had a kid. I watched them racing at bathurst when my boy was 3 months old and swore when i had money id buy one, paying rent, buying nappies, paying for school, working 6 days a week to make ends meet, i had to wait till he was 16 till i paid off a house and could afford one. Damn shit then took the keys off me when he turned 21.

If you have the steel valve guides, take a close look at the tips entering the ports in case they are cracked after you remove the valves. Looks not so bad on the piston front, id say 4 new intake valves, a bit of a lapping in and it may be good to go. While your in that state, i may be wiser to just replace the 4 intake valves and get all the seats recut, valves resurfaced and lapped to ensure max compression. Your there now, its not mega $.....

Honestly, the legalities in running a single (if your tight on cash, try engineering the car to run a single legally), just stick with the twins, the car remains stock looking under the hood. Dont go bigger than -5, the lag will cost you time on the street as it is on -5's at worst, as you go down the turbo choise, they come on earlier, on the street you need response. Remember you have a stock bottom end, you also have your limits to reliable power, as your apporching 400Kw its a ticking costly time bomb unless you spend on forged internals. Pick a power level, select the smallest turbos to comfortably reach that goal without winding the shit out of them, you want the car to hammer from down low, the engine and turbos to last also if your Mrs has one in the oven......once the kid comes im sure you will be out of cash.

No Luke, the ARP 26 studs are torqued to 105 ft lbs in 3 steps, the RB25 and RB25/30 ones are thinner at 7/16th and done to 80 ft lbs in 3 steps. Point being the 26 ones are thicker and the block deck stronger and thread area is larger and they can take more. The RB30 blocks take less being a smaller stud and the rest, also the block deck may start distorting if overdoing it as they dont have much meat around the stud holes. Instructions are below.... RB25, 25/2630 using a 7/16th stud etc... http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/202-4301.pdf RB26.... http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/202-4207.pdf

Id say go a pair of -5's and keep the car looking stock under the hood. On E85 you can make some pretty good numbers, however do you have a forged bottom end if you intened to use them regularly?

Pms replied

Carbonetics friction. We are getting ready to fit it, we just ballanced the pressure plate and flywheel, the clutch plate has a sprung center. We made it clear to Jim that the car had to still be streetable, albeit rarely, our concern was holding up at the 1/4 mile, as mentioned he has made a few of these for street driven GTRs in the 9's and they are holding up well. However one thing you need to consider or pass onto Jim is how much power your intending to push through it and how you will drive it. If he advises a lower clamp load, go with it, we have a 5700 Lbs pressure plate, after bed in he said it will settle at 5400 Lbs, im currently modifying our crank main thrust bearing for extra oiling to help with the higher clamp loads we will be putting on the mains thrust. Ideally with these higher powered builds and high clamp load plates you want a dog box, clutch to only be used on take off. Lower clamping loads means you wont have to mod your thrust bearing, but the issue is with high tourque you cannot run a normal box, you could try but i dont know for how long it would hold up with those sorts power figures, going by others id say you better start looking for a stronger gear box, its the next weak link......

More a case of a 32mm taller RB30 block in a R32 GTR which is the issue when trying to close the bonnet.

bump

We went Jim Berry for less than you quoted, 5700Lbs clamp single plate, 5 or 6 puck for 600Kw in a GTR with a 26/30 street/drag build. Jim has a few 9 second and quicker cars running them without issues. Talk to him about your needs, driving style and power/torque levels, let him know what you will be doing with the car and listen to his suggestion. The man knows his stuff, just be prepared to spend at least an hour on the phone with him, one thing his not short of is customer care.....

Oil control thread covers it all. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/ Its not a drain, its a breather...... Maybe start from about 10 pages from the end and read forward. Always above oil level, regardless of drain or breather idea. Stock turbo oil drain is above oil level, obviously to be a breather it needs to be above the oil level.

I dont think their is any diffrence, looks like Greg just let the person/company who he had make them continuing with them. He never phisically made them, he had them made for himself by this company id say.....

Most run the narrow in the original place and place the wide further down away from the high temps. I still amazed to see so many running a wide band sensor very close to the turbo outlet and then complain that the sensor keeps failing and blame the brand fitted.

No worries mate!

Depends on what fuel and boost your running, if your winding 50 and + Psi into it, you may want to have a hemi design, lots of 26 heads have the squish pads removed on big power builds for a reason.

Dont forget to mock up your build with a head gasket and some play dough on the pistons and check your valve to piston clearance before you start to deck the head, especially if your running a big lift cam and oversized valves.

Were they new ones put in and leaking or did you reuse your old ones? Sometimes if you instal new ones dry and its a tight fit you can damage them.

The problem with trackers is they just need a mobile phone jammer, turn it on and its suddenly invisable. Still heaps of them around making their way into the country, customs is catching some and issueing warning letters, looks like some still make it through though, even the kids doing joy rides have access to them. I personally believe cars that are stolen towed have one of these devices simply thrown in the car switched on and never to be seen again.

The pro engine ones flex, the block and or sump will crack being of cast material well before the adapter plate does, its quite thick and solid but yet flexable. Our issue when we received ours was it was bowed a little, greg pointed out it bends easily to shape once bolted down, i just pushed it with my thumb and it sat flat, released my thumb and it went back to its bend, by the time you actually screw/bolt it down its never going to be a issue if i could bend it with my thumb. We are talking about a 2mm bow in the center here that i paniced over. He was also fantastic, i worringly texted him on a Sunday over it, he actaully took the time to immediately call me back on his day off, tried what he said on the phone and he was spot on. No way in the world is it going to break, the block and sump will be permanantly split in 2 before this thing splits, it flexes freely to what its bolted to.

BUMP!

Dont waste your time with trackers, they can be jambed, pros are prepared for this, backyarder/kids are not. Notice the amount of cars with trackers never to be seen again?

Ours is the Pro engines one, just went straight on, no mods were needed as its perfectly engineered, templates come with it, very easy to follow, we even thought we found a issue with it and called Greg who was VERY helpfull and pointed out what the issue was and he was 100% correct, problem was us, not his product, its perfect and proven to be perfect. Get it with the oil pickup from him, we didnt due to the sump design we had, looking back i should have bought his one and did what i needed to it rather than trying to fab one up from scratch which cost a lot more. Your talking 600Hp, we are talking that in KW on ours. We were more concerned with using a cast aluminium sump extension to add Sump/diff strength rather than the sheet aluminium ones and Grouted the bottom 3cm of the water jackets to help to strengthen the block. Tyre grip plays a major part when forces start running through the front diff and sump to twist and break a adapter plate.....not to mention splitting the block....