GTRPSI

What a load of crock. EBC Yellows, rated to 900 degrees not good enough? Or Reds rated to 650 degrees? But you recommend a pad that's rated to 500 degrees? Did you know Green stuff is designed for kit cars up to 850Kg and also rated to 500 degrees? So if you ran them in a Skyline, im sure you would know why they didn't work well..... We run lots of cars on Yellows, no fade issues so far, only issue is finding enough cooling and a rotor that can keep up with them.

Vented back to between the air filter and turbo and running a exhaust vacuum source with check valve?

If rounded they are stuffed now, out with the small grinder.......

Lets not forget, this problem was centered around 1 tuners issues with the new Fuelab pump and 1 wire pressure reg to control it, what ive come to understand later (i think you may have mentioned it earlier somewhere) is that most other pressure regs have some ability to absorb some pressure pulses. I have not seen a large dampner (but have not looked hard enough too), if a small one is not enough, add more to the setup, damping volume would come down to the total volume of all combined. Most setups today are run with Flexible lines under the car, i have not seen too many hard pipe lines run when going bigger.

Yeah as Scotty said, issue is with the injectors causing the fuel pressure hammer.

I grew up in the Group B era, i was Rally driving from 18 till 23 on a club level in a Corolla and Datsun 1600. I always preferred a single spinner on gravel, i could always get on the power earlier while maintaining the pull into a straight line after a turn faster. Locked diff always had me sideways longer while powering out which meant i had to hold back longer. Same under braking, a locked rear diff had me braking earlier with a slower mid corner speed due to the extra rear looseness caused by the locked diff.

And how are you finding it Rallying a NA GTS is it competitive or just for shits and giggles? Ground clearance and weight not a issue?

You can get ones that fit into the fuel line, however the stock S2000 ones are cheap and reliable and i like the idea of it being right next to the injectors where the issue comes from rather than further back down the line.

Ill be using ones from Honda S2000's, they can be simply threaded straight into the fuel rail....

Agreed, thats why im still going with one. But im fitting inline fuel dampners to absorb the shock.....

I was planning the same a few month ago. A tuner in the know mentioned they were experiencing issue maintaining a solid even fuel pressure with it. Consensus seems to be that you will need to run a fuel pressure damper to absorb the spikes in pressure.

Fits perfectly, located in melbourne

Hi, I have two AB FLUG front diffusers here to suit R32 GTR. Im not using these anymore due to my driveway. Ones been test fitted the others brand new in packaging. Chasing what i paid. $445 each Text me on 0422216160 if interested. Cheers.

The crown and pinion looked fine, you blew the center because it was single spinning and putting all the power down through the smaller gears while one wheel free balled. You need a locking center, then your next weak point will be the crown and pinion, as said by others, transmitting less bias to the front usually does the trick. Unfortunately due to the design of the diff being built into the sump, when things go wrong inside its bye bye sump......you would rather prefer to break a drive shaft, so much simpler and cheaper to deal with.

Pretty much what Kiwis4t said..... If the leakdown and compression test come back good, some good oil and a good safe tune is all you need. (and supporting injectors, fuel pump etc)

The oil heat exchanger serves 2 purposes. Firstly it helps get the oil up to temp quicker by pulling heat of of the water and transferring it into the oil and secondly it works the other way around by transfering heat from the oil back into the water once the oils too hot. Ideally the oil and water temps should be at the same temp as the factory thermostat. Now if your water temp is good but your oil is getting too hot, there's something wrong if your just cruzing. Start by checking the oil temp sender and wiring (and possibly gauge). A bad connection may be causing too much resistance which may explain the high temp readings.

If it happens when your stationary test it with the clutch pedal in and out, if its there in both situations id be getting the flywheel and pressure plate checked for balance.....

Replaced factory filter box to a pair of pods is counted as 1 intake mod.

Trent @ ChequeredTuning. https://www.facebook.com/ChequeredTuning He has years of experience with RB26's, we know a few happy customers of his. Thats our Supercharged Honda S2000 on top of his page that he did for us the other day........drives beautifully and goes hard......

Well your allowed 1 intake mod. Just dont look left at the intake manifold and she be right.

Yeah like being F%$ked and staying a virgin.

2JZ is far superior engineered in many many ways. (over-engineered) Anyone here looked inside of one? Seen the size of the factory oil pickup, the pump, the oil returns, block strength etc etc.....then looked in a RB and been really seriously disappointed?

We go our Tial pair through VPW. Hmm, i didnt check to see how close those 2 gates were on a 6boost manifold. @ Buraz, What did you do to make them fit? (so i dont need to pull everything out to check) Just clocked them around on the V band mount to clear each other?

Son of a Rajab

My Protex (jap bearing version) water pump came with a gasket.