GTRPSI

You can also run a extra drain/breather to the bottom of the catch can, under boost it breathes, off boost it drains. Our sump has 2 breathers, one will run to the top of the can, the other to the bottom. Catch can should be of a type you can open and inspect so you can put a good corse steel wool inside, any points in the can that work as a drain should have a wire screen mesh over them so nothing nasty can return, mesh to be finer than the stuffing used. Its just common sense stuff.

Not sure tbh, depends what mood I'm in lol

954 Specs....i have them in my listing below in the item description..... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DRILLED-SLOTTED-Nissan-350Z-Z33-V6-Touring-03-FRONT-Disc-brake-Rotors-RDA954D-/131106764705?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e869277a1 Hat height is the total face to rear of the rotor height. Lay it on a table like a hat, measure through the hub hole from the table to the top face that the wheel sits on. Hope that helps you...

What we did to our R32 GTR, piss off the cross drilled rotors as they crack, we put on some RDA dimple drilled and slotted ones and EBC Red Stuff pads which are rated to 650. Now with our new engine build and power upgrade i will be upgrading to Yellow Stuff pads, they are rated stable from cold to 900 but a little more agressive on the rotors. We dint go bigger on the rotors as we wanted to be able to run the stock rims. We used EBC 307+ Racing fluid which is exactly the same as the good Motul stuff. Braided lines...see import monster, they always have them for GTR's at a good price. Make up some cooling ducts/air deflectors, on tight tracks GTR's can really have high brake temp issues, it helps to control things so you can rape the car without worries. Master stopper is a good move too.

FRIDAY BUMP! Open to offers.

Lets not forget the key point to making response as to a revy engine. Light recipricating weight in the engine. Lightest pistons and rods, crankshaft and flywheel. Gearing helps to enhance the free rev nature when on power. Dont get too carried away though, a clutch dump start can lead to a serious bog down on launch. Turbos, cams etc work with on power driving response as does a smaller volume intercooler etc.

Ah, its just a trim, you wont notice it, go slow and steady with a small hand grinder with a thin blade.

Im not sure about 70mm but it does sound a little narrow for your power goal, then again ARC are one of the best coolers. I would be considering a good brand 100mm to take that part out of the equation, nothing worse than realizing after all the work that you have a pressure drop across the ends. Im sure you would get good money for it to put towards something a little freer flowing. You may need to trim a bit of the front bar opening a little to make the thicker 100mm cooler fit, we needed to with our cooling pro one from just jap that we sold not long ago to change for a better brand due to a engine power upgrade.

I bought mine a few years ago before costco was even here in Melbourne, the guy use to do nothing but import jacks and supply workshops. I paid less than what Costco sold them for now back then when i got it.

When all the above fails, check the CAS, no cas no start.....

Maybe your belts worn, has oil on it or its loose.

Try ebay, i got mine of a jack specalist locally who was importing them and also selling them on ebay.

Any up down or left right movement between the gearbox and engine may result in a bent transmission input shaft. Ive seen a few cars with up to 2 bolts missing being driven, however the others were tight, not exactly the best thing to be doing driving it that way.....

I use to have some no brand chinese tyres on the old XR6's rear, 1 drop of rain and i could have walked faster around a roundabout without getting some serious drift angle happening, it was so bad that i stopped the family driving it till i changed them. There would be no g force through the car sideways, you would swear it would have been impossible to get a car sliding at those slow speeds, yet going around at a stupidly slow speed yet the rear would just break out in a blink of a eye..... Dont buy no name chines tyres, tyre shops are selling them everwhere, they are death traps. Makes me wonder how many people have been booked under the hoon laws with them or wraped the car around a pole and been told by the police they were driving like idiots and charged.

Bump

Close the gap for a test, see what happens. If it works you might have a weak spark due to coils on their way out.

Pull the plug out of cylinder #1 and put a long coat hanger wire down the hole to the piston so you can feel it. Get someone to rotate the engine to top dead center, when the piston is at its highest, find the pistons highest point in its travel by feeling when the wire is at its highest position. Check to see if the harmonic balancer mark lines up with the cover marking, This is your top dead center point. If not the outer ring may have slipped or your keyway may be worn, crank bolts are known to get loose and damage keyways. Assuming the factory markings are out, the bolts not loose and the keyway is fine, put a new mark on the balancer with liquid paper and try the timing again, see if its still off with the new markings.

Sounds like spark plugs are wet, have you tried another new set in there? Wants to fire then does not, most likely the plugs are soaked by that time. Otherwise that yellow spark is not going to cut it, you need a blue spark. Start with the plugs first, if it fails start chasing the weak spark.

Have a look at all your earth connetions and clean them. Resistance happens more so with heat, you mentioned things are dimming as it warms up. Bit of sandpaper on all the eath leads should be a easy test/check. In my case i ran a home made earth kit, basically some wires direct from the Negative to around the block, one of the ignitor models bolts, cleaned the big earth to the block...etc Sometimes its something simple.....does not mean its not your ignitor though, or even your CAS, test with known working ones after the earth check.

If its idling fine but missfiring under boost, close your plug gap down to 0.8mm first as a test.....im guessing you used the factory plug gaps....maybe check your old plug gaps and see what they were at, most people close the gaps to help stop on boost missfires. While there take a look around the coils for burn marks/arcing. If you see arcing marks around coils try wraping them in electrical tape as a temp fix till you change them. Also its good practice to use dielectric grease around the boot inner edge to help stop arcing through there too.

Slide it inside face of rim towards the ground, outside face you see up so you dont scratch the good side when pushing them under on concrete. You can spew about scratching the good face of the rims after the car falls down and the rims save your life. Wide rims are nice to have for extra clearance if you have a bit of a pot belly like me.

Hopefully they will use them and save you the hassle of finding and taking care of them. Darwins award should be issued to them once this happens. For those who dont know what the Dawin award is..."The Darwin award is given posthumously to people who have made the supreme sacrifice to keep their genes out of our pool. Style counts"

I use the same jack as Terry. When buying stands, get the heaviest rating you can, some are pretty flimsy. I usually shove the rims under the car once removed, i even leave the jack under the cross member if room to work, just as a added safety margin. A few years back a bloke in the next street was working on his car which was held up on a workshop trolley jack and it fell on him, family thought they heard something and found him crushed but still alive, police, parramedics, helicopter arrived, he died on the way to hospital.....so dont take chances....

I went through this a while ago, 32 GTR's use a unique rear wheel bearing assembly, other model bearings were diffrent on the mounting face, i ended up getting a genuine Nissan bearing for the GTR and the noise went away, mine was also the drivers side.

Saw it at Edge motorworks, Barry pulled out a Supra gearset and handed me a R34 one and the difrences were staggering. One of the guys that work there mentioned they heard someone out there was manging to slip some of the Supra gearsets into 34 boxes, dont know which ones or who they were, i might ask next time im in there.