GTRPSI

Where are u located ill come pick the cams up

Its very hard to judge a manifold by looking at pretty pictures from the outside. You need to be able to look at detail, externally and more so internally, length of pipes, bends, diameters, wall thicknesses, weld quality, the list is long and for the most part beyond the scope of somebody without enough experiance to understand what the key points are and to also compare these points against other brand names to make a informed opinion of whats good and not. It all sort of points back to buying a reputable brand of manifold where years of development, trial and error has perfected its design and construction, all the bugs would have been sorted by then. It also helps when the manifold carries a lifetime warranty against cracking.....go crank 30-40-50 Psi and a 6 boost and its right at home glowing, just another walk in the park for it..... My eye sight also started going after 42, im turning 50 in 2-3 months, im useless without glasses now, one pair for PC and closeup detailed work, another pair of multifocals for everything else including driving. Maybe this forum needs a senior citizens area where we can have a whinge about all the loud young folk here. Back to the topic, im sure there are other good manifold brands out there, not just 6 Boost, it comes down to knowing for sure that you got the choice right, i couldnt so i just went with whats known and proven, a few $100 did not make it worth the risk. If your choise is going to be goverened by a few hundred bucks, call around to a few people for prices, we got our 6 Boost made to order through PJ Quick bits with the chrome ceramic coating finish.

Yes the large center hub nuts can cause a clicking sound, more noticable when turning a tight corner at lower speeds.

I have not heard of Rex at all. Ive only dealt with a few 6Boost manifolds, each that ive inspected so far have been flawless, the one we just purchased a few months ago for our GTR was very nicely made, the only thing that i was not 100% happy about was the twin gate pipe angle into the collector, until we wind boost in we wont know how effiecent it is at letting pressure out, i felt a bit of angle on exit, going with the flow may have helped relieve gasses better. Then again i should not comment about it as im not sure how much engine bay space is avalible to run a split manifold with a true dual port waste gate setup instead of a single one as most others do. (which sort of takes away the idea of being a true split system) If i see boost spikes, its the first thing ill be pointing the finger at.....so far what ive heard from others this should not be a issue if we run largeish PSI numbers which we intend to do.

Correct me if im wrong, but does that collector look like its already with a few cracks in it at the pipes merge in the second picture? Maybe forgot to weld and grind it? Or am i seeing things in my old age?

I would just go with proven results. We went 6 Boost split with twin gates, why risk buying something for $1000 when for $200 more you have a life time warranty that it wont crack with a brand name known to be efficent and used on many big powered builds? Hell if you want ot save a buck, heaps of others out there, have a google and enjoy reading about welds cracking...... Pay once, do the job once and forget about it.

Correct IF the heads cam tunnel is not warped, yes it can and does happen. Reliveing the head for big cams is another matter that has nothing to do with the cam caps. The reliefs are done next to the valve spring buckets.

Its the later block, can see the flat tensioner section on the front.

PCV valve is in the balance manifold above the individual throttle bodies.

New turbo owner has been in his cousins race pace tuned R34 Vspec with -7's and a few -5 GTR's, however what he wanted with the R33 was just straight line drag type performance, without spending (key point), we had the turbos and manifolds for sale at a good price at the time. We know him quite well, i spent a whole evening trying to talk him out for buying them due to the lag and his stock bottom end, didnt work. Speaking of -5 turbos, Stefan told me you took him for a bit of a spin in your race pace built R33, next morning when he got up he was singing praises when telling me about it, very impressed with the setup and the way it laid the power down.

If anyone needs exact rotor diameters, thickness and hat heights etc, PM me, im a RDA agent and happy to share specs to help out members here. About the stay away from chinese rotor comment, where do you thing RDA, DBA and Brembo cast their mass production rotors?

If your going to be pushing it, go some ACL race bearings, forged rods and pistons to avoid the heartache and empty pocket down the road, spend a little now once instead of spending twice. 300Kw is about at the relabiltiy limit of the game, you could get away without it but its all in the tune and how you treat it. Plenty of people running more from them with stock bottom ends, plenty also having them fail too......id be leaning towards forging it to make it survive and leave room for other power upgrades, once you have 300Kw you will be sick of it and chasing more, its only human, build some room for safety.

As i said, not the perfect turbo choice, but he can work around to some degree with what he has to work with, lots of big laggy turbo High comp E85 setups working quite well out there. I wouldnt even consider it on Pulp, suicide. Id agree with the bin the -10's for something better, surging can be to some degree sorted with a exhaust mainfold balance pipe and a deflector/seperator plate on the outlet twin turbo pipe and some tuning, but by the time you add it all up its sometimes just logical to go the smaller turbo route or a single setup, just ease for end result. If he wants to run it he can make it work, its just a question of the whole package being right, there is quite a bit to making those ancient -10's work, its just a question if the amount of input is worth the end output. Do you remeber Stefans car ZILLR (im his dad posting), we pissed off those -10 turbos quick smart. They ended up on a R33, the new owner loves them, around 370KW at all 4 now (i think), tune and cam gears pulled out a lot of the lag, lost its old top end, gained a lot down the bottom, ended up being a lot more street freindly. This was its first tune session in RWD before the 370 it pulls now on all 4 with a stock bottom end, add E85 and cams for more (and a forged bottom end would be a good idea)....

If you have hicas aready fitted, kits such as the whiteline locking bar include a bypass tube to fit into the rear which just circlates the fluid. On our R32 GTR i pulled out the hicas rack, fitted a whiteline one, didnt use the bypass pipe included with the locking bar, removed the hoses etc and bypassed the fluid to run through the factory cooler. Now my 2 Hicas steel fluid lines can be used as fuel return lines for the fuel system im setting up.

Do you sell the R32 GTR Dog bone brakets on their own for the Nissan Sumitomo calipers? If so how much, wondering the price diffrence with yours for 343mm to the current ones on the market for a 324mm front conversion? Sounds like your using a 343mm front rotor from the Harrop upgraded VT to VZ HSV models which are also 32mm thick. Quite a bit of that rotor wont see pad contact on the inside without bigger calipers.

Picture 3. Is one of your pistons the wrong way around? Just the valve relielfs look wrong opposite to each other.....left piston valve notches on the upper side in the pic come close to the edge compared to the bottom notches, piston on the right is the opposite orinatation. If the top of the pic is the passager/hot side, id say the left piston needs to be spun 180 degrees. Or am i just going blind in my old age?

Have you checked if your driveshaft and tail shaft bolts are tight? Uni and cv joints not worn? They would be the basics id be starting with....

Something stroker.....3.4?

Not such a stupid idea. On something as laggy as a pair of dash 10's on a 26, your only bottom end response may come from your higher than normal compression build (if thats what your builder did), add E85 to the mix and it might be a bit of a sleeper in disguise. Obviously there are far far better turbo choises on a 26, -10's are so yesteryear.......

I never knew R34 GTR's had dual mass flywheels or anyone made them for them. Are you sure thats right, its go me scratching my head..... They were always solid flywheels as far as i ever knew and saw. If it is dual mass i wouldnt be putting any performance through it.

Bleed it first, It does sound like a air lock though. Booster only assists the ease of the pedal, we still drove ours with a damaged booster, made no diffrence to anything other than making the pedal feel heavier. Id be tempted to get under the car while someone presses the clutch pedal to see the amount of movement on the clutch arm, see if it travels out far enough and returns all the way back. Not enough travel, then bleed, still not enough start changing the master or slave, look for which one might show some dampness or weeping and pick that one first for replacement.

What did you end up gapping the rings to? What boost are you planning?

Id agree with taking it to Cihan at Edge, he is very good at what he does, Barry can instal all the parts there before it hits the dyno.

So hit me up with a price on the dash! Haha

Sounds like the seal between 3 and 4 is compromised, there will be no water or oil mixing issues, simply no compression if dead on right between the cylinders. Good way to check is pull a spark plug out of one of the 2 failed cylinders, leave the other one in the other failed cylinder, turn over the engine by hand, when the cylinder that failed with the sparkplug fitted is in the compression stroke you will hear a hissing into the cylinder without the spark plug. Same will happen if you swap the sparkplugs the other way around, whichever cylinder is going into compression with the spark plug fitted will leak out into the failed cylinder next to it without the spark plug.