GTRPSI

Sealing surface is clean? No lumps/old gasket that protrude and cause the housing not to sit flush? If it does not sit flush and on a uneven surface, expect it to crack when tightening. Also tighten the bolts evenly to spead the load. To crack 2 in a row, something sounds odd like crap not cleaned off the mating surface

On R32 GTR's the bottom sits in closer to the engine side and the front leans out further to the bar, it does not sit straight up and level, works just fine.

You may want to tell us your intended use, street, track, drag? RPM limits of the build or how far your prepared to have it rev to, or do you want low down grunt and not worried out max power at high RPM? What sort of boost do you intend to run up to? 98 or E85? Whats the compression like at the moment, is it a high compression or low compression build? Are you prepeared to take the head off to machine clearance for larger lobes, and possiblly fit stronger valve springs? Many factorys need to be taken into account when selecting a camshaft, much like a turbo selection, camshaft choice is much about the package you have.. Whats right for my engine may be a dog on yours.....

Power fc do the job, been around for years and are cheap S/H atm. Haltec are better if doing serious upgrades but are priced more.

No they (the ones under the 4wd shaft tube) are there in GTR sumps, albeit very small holes. The idea is you open them up and add a few extra ones if you like to help oil drain back, the factory ones are tiny and struggle to keep up. About the holes in the side of the sump on the intake side of the sump, they are pressure relief ports, no need to put the rear breather behind the head, your releasing pressure straight out of them so it does not travel upwards towards the head which fights the oil trying to travel downwards. One of them can be used as a oil drain if run into the bottom of the oil catch can, blowby pressure when present will blow through the oil if oil is present in the can and still be a breather, when there is no crakcase pressure when driving normally or backing off it will flow back into the sump on that line. One large fitting on top of the catch can can vent to atmoshpere or better still run the large line between your filter and turbo inlet, when driven hard there is some vacuum created there which will help draw the blowby gasses out of the catch can, helps to add vacuum to the catch can to enhance the blowby scavenging effect. Some old school V8 setups even use to run a vacuum port off the exhaust headers, the line was welded in at a angle to the header for maximum scavanging effect, a one way check valve was used to stop backfire from going up into the breather system and this helped to assist creating a vacuum to draw blowby gasses, however you want to be sure you have a free flowing exhaust that does not have back pressure when attempting that one. I see it cleaner and simpler to use the airfilter to turbo pipe as a vacuum port. As proof there is a vacuum there, note GTR's have a spring wire inside the rubber intake pipes between the airflow meter and turbo to stop the pipes from sucking in and restricting flow because of the high vacuum level when the turbo draws air, might as well use the free scavanging effect to draw your blowby out of the crank case after its been through the catch can to remove all oil from it.

How much for just the dash?

I bought a plug kit years ago and have used it many times. Once i remember my sons freind brought his car over which was making a loud banging sound and bouncing while he drove it. Ended up being a screw driver he ran over, went in all the way, just the bent handle sticking out, the plug still fixed it, still going strong for the last 2 years.

Did they remove the rocker covers to check the bearing saddles? If not get a second opinion.....

I drilled ours out larger and added a couple of extra holes. I also tapered the in side (rear side) to help flow. We also have 2 dash 10 fittings welded to the RHS on a high octane cast alloy sump extension.

Work of art Sub boy32, fantastic setup, i think ill be doing the same with our setup.

ARP paper work is as i posted, you can drive them in with a allen key as most have a allen key head but leave the end pressue at hand tight, therefore dont lean into the allen key......just let them softly bottom out, hence hand tight. Piston ring end gap and piston material expansion is 2 diffrent things. Rings expand on their own in the bore, they float in the piston regardless of its expansion. Point being the more heat, the more the rings will expand, so therefore the more boost/nitros/hp you run, the more ring end gap you need. A good way to explain it is ring manufacturers supply their own ring end gaps regardless of what pisons you run, piston manufacturers supply a piston to bore clearance regardless of the rings you run. Each have their own expansion rate and clearance depending on the material they are made out of and what your desired outcome is. Follow the ring manufacturers and piston manufacturers instruction for clearances and running situation, most clearly explain NA, Boost, Nitrous etc clearances per inch of bore.

They are bottomed out "hand tight" If entering a water jacket use ARP thread sealant. Run a thread cutter through all bolt holes to clean threads before instalation. About ring end gaps, follow the ring manufacturers instructions. As an example JE Pro Seal recommend the following... Street Moderate Turbo/Nitrous top ring .0050" per inch of bore, second ring .0055" per inch of bore. Higher boost, say 20-25 psi top ring .0060" per inch of bore, second ring same. Get into the 35+ PSI game and is .0070" per inch of bore, second ring the same. Key pont is a little too much ring end gap is OK, to little will break your rings and score the bores. On lower boost levels a larger second ring end gap is benaficial, the abilty to bleed off any gas that passes the first ring is important as its the pressure differatial that seals the top ring, opening the second ring a little more is the key. On higher boost levels this is neglatable, however i tend to give the lower rings and extra .004" for guaranteed seal.

My understanding in VIC is 1 intake mod only, whether it be a aftermarket cooler, pods or whatever. You shouldnt need a engineers certificate for intake mods from my understanding unless you were making holes that may effect the structural integrity of the car. Most coppers dont know what they are looking at when you open the hood anyway, they are just looing for things that stand out with brand names and shiny or anodized. Paint your front mount black, say its factory and tell them your front plenum is the only mod (and hope for the best)

Check you earth lead, make sure its grounded properly to the engine/chassis.. I once spent a week chasing what i thought was a dead starter, it turned out being that i needed to remove the ground leads everywhere and sand all the points. Boy did i feel like a useless carnt after working that one out.....

We are also looking into getting one. The way i see it is you dont need external gauges, can set limits and alarms so you can keep your eyes on the road, and have a gear shift rev limit display, all in one unit. A worthwhile investment if your serious about monitoring your engines performance IMHO.

CP, JE, Nitto (je rebranded) all are good.

700Hp with standard pistons and rings? I think theres your first problem......ring lands are probably gone.

Id say a tuning issue, the new ecu ran with diffrent injectors, possibly fuel pressure too. Was the other person running a resistor pack with the injectors? Checked whats setup in the ecu program? Plemum vacuum lines set up correctly? Lamba plugged in right?

Air flow meters, first try cleaning the probes by spraying some carb or contact cleaner on them. Then look at your ignition module on the top of the coil pack cover, mine use to get hot and missfire when getting on boost, turned out the unit was shot and giving me poor spark. At your boost level you dont need to close the gaps too much, at 24Psi i went down to .7mm once.

I dont think even cryo is enough when driving in anger with slicks and over 400kw, some aftermarket boxes use hardened larger input shafts to take the beating, wider gear sets to transmit the load across a wider tooth etc amoungst other things.. Id say the best way is to go auto if its a drag application with hard launches. Problem is saying auto and GTR in the same sentance is like getting your left nut cut off.

Euro 4 are the best for passing tests but also the most retrictive and the most expensive. Most people use Euro 3 cats as they are far more affordable, add E85 to the mix and your sitting sweet. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OBD2-EURO3-Universal-Catalytic-converters-all-models-UNIVERSAL-FITMENT-/131059342207?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e83bedb7f However if your runing a ECU, cams and aftermarket turbos, ive heard bad stories about the Full called in EPA tests, where they ask you to bend over and touch your toes while they put the rubber gloves on..... If its not the full EPA test and just your engineer and he is approving your mods your OK. Ive spoken to a a few kit car builds who have failed their engineers test for using high flow cats, but passed using the Euro 3 ones on petrol.

What i ran for years without issues, even flaming exhaust so lots of unburnt fuel went through it..... http://www.cateran.com.au/cateran/images/Racecatposter.pdf Compared to a decat, i notice a slight power drop after 7800 rpm though to 9000 so not bad on the restriction side of things. Only thing is the port for the temp probe is a diffrent thread so i dilled the old one out and welded my own nut to it.

Very good key valid points. Line boring shifts the crank up higher, theoretically closing the gap in the gears towards the top and opening it towards the bottom, with high RPM and crank flex even more dangers. Without offset pins on the oil pump you cannot compensate for the shift. Sintered metal gears? There is the first weak point, even a basic engine like the Ford Boss V8 suffers from this weakness with everyone upgrading to GT40 style pumps. I wouldnt recommend running sintered metal anything in a performance engine. Maybe the pump builder can look into producing billet gears to overcome this. Sort of now understand why Nitto was taking so long to come up with their new pump now.....

pm sent

Have you checked out your Cusco front diff? When i needed a front boot for my GTR i went to M&S driveshafts with my old one and they matched it up for me. http://msdriveshafts.com.au/ I dont remember the part number as it was years ago but they matched my old one that i brought into something that was on the shelf. Maybe try calling them, they might know off the top of their heads which boot kit it is, there are a few GTR workshops around them so i think they might know from servicing them. Are your drive shaft bolts tight next to the sump? On a side note i had a click coming from my LHS once, what at the time i thought was a drive shaft. it turned out to be the aftermarket rims i ran caused the issue, when on stockies the click went away.....