GTRPSI

Wow, im paying less than $800 PA for the GTR......3 years now with them, first year it was $730. Previous claims, bad license history, maybe a high agreed value? It all makes a difference.

I used Lumley special Vehicles insurance, it was 1/3 of what Shannons wanted (my suburb jacked up the quote), im 49 and i managed to get my son when he was 21 on the policy too, i think their min age was 25 when i inquired back then. http://www.lsvinsurance.com.au/ http://www.lsvinsurance.com.au/what-we-insure.html We got covered under the modern classics class, its a R32 GTR. Try them because since that car we got my sons S2000 covered by them too without questions, so it sounds like they are open to all cars including newer models.

James issue has always been traction. His MPH shows he has the power, traction up to 120KPH + is his biggest issue, if he had that he would have easily taken the quickest time too. As he said to me, GTR's always get him on standing starts at the beginning, rolling he has no issues against (most) GTR's if he feeds on the power (and avoids breaking into clouds of smoke) We had a short few words about this, as i said to him 4wd will always win on launch, but 2wd with less driveline power loss on big powered cars will always be quicker power for power output compared to a 4wd. A example i used was when Stefan use to take the car, on rolling starts he always us to pull the fuse and the car was quicker, obviously with a standing start he would have been slower with this setup. I mentioned to Stefan a few months ago about suspension and driveline setup once ready, change spring rates, different shocker rates front and rear, more ground clearance, positive camber on the rear and negative on the front when standing, torque control for the 4wd setup to only stay 4WD for a predetermined slip etc. Ideally to go 4WD Jatco auto but he wont hear of it, im waiting for him to break his first box (should not take long) and to remind him again. Building the power is one thing, laying it down is a whole new ball game.......

Are you sure its 4" all the way? Not 3 1/2" to 4 outlet?

@ Suboy32, or anyone else who has built and used a spacer, how much heavier is the pedal without the booster with this conversion? Reason i ask is because we are planning to lift the body with subframe spacers and keep the booster. In our case we are running a JB 5700Lb pressure plate and i was a little scared about how heavy the clutch might be without the booster.

Without a issue.....should be a walk in the park.

I disagree with the above. There is no substitute for cubes. More of everything right through the power curve, from turbos spooling earlier to less RPM need to achieve the same effect. About driveline isues, if the vehicle cant handle the power, yes it will break things, then again why are you turning up the power on a 26 if your worried about it? Ive seen enough 26 powered cars drop their lunch to know it still happens. Remember is torque that wins races.....and if your not sympathetic to a drive line you need to rethink your driving style, many 30's running around and not dropping boxes and front diffs....a large percentage is down to the driver and the way the power is laid down.... A perfect example is the Honda S2000, if i driver starts dropping clutches and hard clutch launches be prepared for new drive shafts and diffs, yet we dont blow them because we have learnt to be sympathetic, we still can launch the car perfectly off the line , its just the perfect balance of RPM, clutch slip and control of the 2 pedals while going through the launch, wrong speed and feel on either foot and you got it wrong, either too little or too much force through the drive line. Having said all that, its so much easier to build a 26 than a 30 due to the mods needed to make it all fit, most RB26's can produce enough power to keep 99.99% of owners happy if built right.

Yes it was C&D's Dyno from what Barry said.

Brembos, one size of disc, fronts are 324mm X 30mm thick. Im surprised your not looking at the RDA's, we run them, we also sell heaps of them to others running them on tracks. Where did you think the DBA's are made, Australia?

Had a video sent to me by Barry today, they did the dyno run on someone elses dyno, 705.4Kw, 30 Psi in 5th gear, but they couldn't pull a true reading. Problems was getting the straps to hold it down on the other dyno and traction with the torque its making, the thing just wouldn't settle and wanted to launch its self off. At one stage it was so well tied down the exhaust was rubbing on the dyno wheel, then later Chian pulled the plug after pointing out the tyres were distorting on the rollers, it was getting a bit risky trying to get a true reading, there was too much slip. I popped in today after seeing the run to pick up a oil restrictor for ours and took another look of it on the hoist, noticed it didnt even have cam gears on it, just running the 11.5mm lift 280 degree cams straight off "whatever" with those results. That engine was built by Barry, tuned by Chian......

Very good thread Luke, great work, should be made a sticky. There are a few forums on the web that talk about using a single 10mm spacer, but using a 30mm one only leaves the top 8mm higher than factory, more than enough room to close the bonnet and some more for spare.

I popped in there this arvo to see Barry and the Gameon Supra and its owner James were there, nice guy, openly tells you whats done to it.....the guy simply didnt muck around when building that car. I couldn't stop laughing, they were telling me that its run in tune was limited to 750Kw because their dyno flat lined at that power level, Friday its booked into a dyno that can read over what theirs can. They will be turning up the wick on it, will be interesting to see the results. Damn big angry cam in it...... The more time ive spent with Barry, the more i can appreciate Supras, better engineered engines, stronger gear boxes and friggin big strong diffs too. James mentioned a 2JZ in a GTR would be a nice project, his biggest issue is traction in the Supra, once the thing stops wheel spinning it is game on. Sedat, yours looks quite good too, Stef has been telling me about it, your specs look good, you have picked the right builder, quite a good few cars will be coming out in the next 12 months now that they have settled in the new workshop. Just went into your build thread, in one of the pics there is a car under a blue cover, i think that was ours. Noticed Barry put you onto Brendan for the machining, the guy is a precision Nazi, we also used him, he ended up spending a bit of time fixed our other machinists stuff ups, he always called me over and showed me the errors in tolerances before correcting anything. Yeah i heard about your build Scotty, i wanted to start stiring Barry about it as i wasn't a RB or 2JZ.

There are some posts (i think they may have been here) on the web where people have built washer type spacers of fabricated some steel to compensate for the block finish as in the pics above and it worked just fine.

Lower the engine? The spacer plate to convert the 2wd block to 4wd already brings the sump a CM closer to the subframe stuffing up that idea. I think the way you did it is the best way, the more i think about it the more logical it becomes. The best part is if running a heavy clutch, you can still use the factory booster, im not a big fan of building the left leg, prefer to build the center one instead. Come on man, get some pics happening. Edit, you just put them up as i posted. LOL

I also know Barry and Kennan, ive known Kennan since he was a little kid riding his bike in my area. Kennan breathes, eats and shits Nissans, when i take my stuff to Barry its only he and Kennan that i trust. Barry is old school, very honest and down the line, ive watched him work carefully and he does things how i would have done them myself. Thats why when im busy or there is no room in the garage to work, we send them our own cars. Also their Dyno guy, Ghian is really good at what he does, one particular car from Sydney was sent to them, a Supra with the plates Gameon produced some really good figures....run in tune was 31psi, 7500 redline making 750Kw at the rears....i wont get into what it made on 3 bar...... They will be installing. running in and tuning our RB26/30 when the time comes. I also noted a lot of RB28 strokers in his engine room being built right now between the 2JZ's.

Depends how your car looks too, if it looks clean, good tyres, no tail light issues, not lowered and on big wheels, they wont bother you. Its also how you look. One new years eve just after midnight when the fire works started i was on Kingsway i gave the car a light squirt across a few lanes to make a U turn and in seconds had Hwy Patrol up my arse. I told the wife to put the window down as i did a U turn, coppers followed, they got next to me and saw a late 40's couple driving and just took off....... Now if it was my son driving, or i was in my 20's, maybe some tatts thrown in for good measure, it would have been a different situation.....

Exedy Heavy Duty single plate will be borderline with that power, if abused, forget it.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/205664-bellhousing-ballistic-blanket-for-gtr/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/186909-bellhousing-ballistic-blankets/

Try the AFM, i didnt believe it was a common issue till i opened my GTR's AFM meters up and found 1 barely connecting and the other one totally not connecting, a few minutes with a knife to remove the cover and some solder brought them back from the dead and fixed my problems. On the bright side, even if it does not help, you have ensured this problem wont get in your way down the road and cause other issues.

Thanks for sharing Luke, im going to look at mine next weekend to see how im going to approach what you did.

Dont go more torque than in the manual. Any more may distort the deck of the block which you dont want. Also remember the RB30 block is thinner and weaker around the bolt holes, the block material is also a lot softer than studs, so removing thread to fit a bigger stud only weakens your blocks deck area for the sake of adding more bolt strength which is already more than adequate. The deck will distort more than the bolts can stretch. We are using RB25 studs on our 600KW build.....any give will be from the block deck distorting to hold the studs/head down, not weak studs stretching...... Go back to page 1, 2 well known builders who do this for a reason, if there was a gain going bigger, they would have been doing it.

No such thing as a series 1 or 2 block. The early non turbo blocks had no oil feed hole and water hole drilled and tapped in the block. Later non turbo blocks did, like the original turbo blocks, this is what most people call a series 2 for some reason, Holden did many running changes during the production years to the blocks. How you can tell yours is a later block (like mine) is by looking at the first picture, the hot side. Between welsh plug 3 and 4 is a drilled and tapped hole a little below them, thats your oil feed and the 2 holes above one another after the last welsh plug on that side, if they are drilled and tapped, that's your water feed. Early non turbo blocks were not drilled and threaded in those places, they just had a cast area where you could dill and tap them yourself, you needed to do this yourself, later blocks that everyone called series 2 blocks had these drilled and threaded from the factory. Going by your pics they look drilled and threaded......if so its a later block that everyone calls a series 2 block.

We also went with a JB Clutch. Was very interesting talking to Jim. Our specs given to him were 26/30, 600KW at all 4, street driven occasionally, built for drag, 4WD launches and abuse. He ended up building us a kit that looks exactly like 34geeteetees pictures but with a 5700Lbs clamp cover. The most interesting part was the discussion about flywheels. Key point for drag was not going lighter and staying with the standard flywheel weight for good 4WD Launches. Going from what JB had to say, there are a number of 8-9 second GTR's running the same clutch with stock flywheels. IMHO if your going to run the stock flywheel (which should not be run on those times and power figures) or any other billet flywheel at those power levels and times you should invest in a ballistic blanket to save yourself regardless should something go wrong.

Luke, did you use 10mm spacers for the front subframe or did you go more? Reason i ask is because you say you dropped the subframe 30mm...... If so did you just use longer bolts through the front chassis?

I used solid alloy bush inserts, not the press in ones, the ones that fit on top of your old worn rubber ones , the upper ones were a C section so you only had to loosen the subframe a little to slip them in. Tightened up the rear a lot, only a little extra road noise through the cabin.