GTRPSI

Ill agree with the above, the first time we took our turbos off to inspect them we found RTV silicon was used and we use to run these babies to 1.6 bar all the time with no issues or leaks, we even inspected the silicon bead and it was thin and thorough making a good seal.

Honing takes a little metal off, it does make the cylinder slightly larger. what it basically does is to produce a new finish on the bore for the rings to bed into, new rings need a particular finish to bed in properly. Bore is to make the cylinder larger, this guaranty's you will need new pistons, its used when the old bore finish is too worn or out of round so they need to go wider, this is done by boring and then a hone finish is applied afterwards for a ring bed in and seal. You can just hone a old bore and use the old pistons if the cylinders are still in reasonable condition, a little bit of rust can be taken out however the person doing the job needs to check your piston skirt width and then finished bore diameter and then calculate if your still OK with clearances, too much bore clearance leads to piston slap and compression loss. Any machinist workshop can just look at the block, see the condition of the bores, measure them up and then measure your pistons and give you a idea if you need just a hone or a bore and new pistons.

Ive heard the Xforce stainless systems have mild steel internals in the mufflers and are made in China from a thin Gauge stainless.

RB30 = Better rod stroke ratio. RB26 = less registration issues here in VIC. It it was without a custom crank id be going 30, if it was Regoed in VIC id be going 26. There are lots of arguments for and against it, just as many for gear ratios, turbos etc which would make more changes at improving or ruining each engine sizes characteristics. You need to look at it as a package, not just a engine package but including weight, gearing, tyres, track etc. People like Berry successfully running a time attack RB30, lots of others running RB26's, some with stock cranks, some with strokers.

If your building for a track car, you need at minimum to blueprint the motor is your half serious about doing something to it and helping it survive. At minimum it will need to be decked, honed maybe bored, and possibly have the crank bore alignbored, before we go into pistons and bearings, let alone rods. With a standard rebuild at minimum you need new rings, bearings, and if the bores are good just a hone. There is not much difference in work if the rust is not deep as a hone will clean it out, either way you need to acid dip your block to clean it no matter how clean or dirty it is, one speck of grit and its all over. All in all if it adds up to too much and you dont want to spend, buy a VL Runner and leave it alone, hopefully it will last long enough till you save up a bit. If you do want to change something on a stock bottom end in a track car, concentrate on oil pump, a bigger sump and breathers and if funds allow look at rod bolts and pistons over rods if short on cash in the order listed.

Put me down for 1X blank and 1 X 1.0mm restrictor sent to Melbourne. Pm me some banking details.

Thanks.

Thanks Luke will keep an eye out for it.

R32 GTR with a 26/30 and with a Greddy Plenum and the original throttle bodies? How much room was left? Where are the closest points and distances? Im also going to run the spacers but didnt think it was enough to clear the Clutch master. Still not too late to drop the original master and booster in.....

bump sms me for pictures!!!

i have a radiator $80 located in melbourne.

Tight but smooth is good, its probably a little grease inside it, binding and noisy is bad.

Dont forget if your running a aftermarket plenum that it may hit the clutch booster. I had fun with that one today, ended up converting a S14 clutch master to bolt straight on without a booster, built a adapter so i would not have to redrill the firewall......

Check the woodruff key is not burred, i saw a workshop near me trying to pull one off a 2JZ and the moment i ran my fingers over the key you could feel the sharp edges, a bit of a file and it came off smoothly. If its stuck on before it even moves a little, try the removing the crank method as its the least destructive. In the past ive managed to move them by hammering a knife gently down each side around the back where the rear guide washer is to get them moving with some wd40 spray added to the mix, once they move a little, some lube and some working and a bit of gentle tapping gets them off.

Price without clutch?

im in melb. txt me on 0411184963

open to offers!

Selling a pair of Varrstoen 2.2.2 19x10.5 +12 wheels Afew marks on them. They can be repaired for those who are picky. You can fix the marks for cheap and still get them sprayed for cheaper then buying a new pair. Full sets retail for $1550 so do the math. THIS IS FOR A PAIR ONLY!!!!!!!!!! PRICE: $500 NEGOTIABLE R32 GTR RADIATOR $150 ONO R32 GTR WINDOW WASHER BOTTLE WITH MOTORS $65 R32 GTR RADIATOR OVER FLOW BOTTLE $40 R32 GTR STRUT BRACE $100 call or txt me on 0411184963 for a quick response and more photos. Cheers!

i have a 600x300x100 intercooler that fits factory pipes. need to cut abit of the reo but not much.... $600 also have radiator in good conditon $100 0411184963 if interested

GTR's are known for oil pressure sender unit issues, we also had low readings, changed it and all was OK again.

Have a close look at the caps, even if one is just slightly bulging on its lid is a hint that its on its last legs, any leakage and its 100% gone. Last resort if your stuck and unsure is unsolder a leg off one cap and check the voltages, if you lost voltage on one that was working before solder it back on till you find the cap that relates to that voltage your missing, when you have worked out which cap it is try other new cap, they are cheap as chips.

Rota p45 wheels 19x10 2k with excellent federal rubber

Location?

$430

On a good note, I bought tomei dumps last week and I'm just after what I paid and my postage back. Reason for sale; just ordered 6 boost manifold and don't need them