GTRPSI

Ive seen these turbos, very good condition, "as new" ball bearing R34 items with low mileage on them. Pity they didnt have steel wheels on the exhaust side. Good luck with the sale meowdog, should sell quick if someone see's them.

Pm me your addy, ill take the black passenger side door handle for $15 pickup.

Oil pressure sender and the 2 hoses from the cam covers (not the third C shaped one joining the covers).

pm sent

Space saver spare tire and oil pressure sender from the engine please, can pickup on weekend. Tried calling, no ans. your message bank is full too.

Oil pressure sender and the 2 cam cover breather hoses (LH & RH), not the third C one joining the 2 covers?

Do you have a oil pressure sender you could remove from the engine and how much posted to 3064?

Any play in the turbos and seal issues? Do you have a oil pressure sender unit for a rb26dett and how much?

Do you have the oil pressure gauge sender unit from the engine? $?

Do you have any rear sub frame bushes for a r32?

When you floor it, grab your right testicle and squeeze it hard....always fixes my problems.

That someone was me. Left you some good itrader feedback too. Thanks again.

Why dont you bypass the plug by stripping some wire on the o2 sensor and the wireing loom and make a bridge with some crimp type plugs and some wire? If your ecu isnt getting any o2 sensor reading it will most likely run like a dog, also the ecu has to relearn after its reset. Worst case a second hand ecu from the buy/sell section, should be less than $150.

Or c), redo the burnt part of the wiring first? Hope you have not cooked something more serious like the ecu, im unsure if there is an inline fuse.

GGG, PM sent re the airbox. Thanks

There is more load....far more load through the drive train by a high factor in first compared to fifth. Stick your car in first and hold it at 60, give a little gas, take a little off and feel the dynamics of what the car does. Its road speed vs rpm, its the least mechanically binding gear. The only thing that could force it to break is if the gear set (fifth) is so small and weak that it cant take it. Ive never seen it happen. Ive been cruzing in my GTR in fifth at 60 without a problem for years, infact i hold all my cars in the same way, never had a problem in any of them in regards to a lower gear. I just pick the gear and listen to the engine to make sure its not lugging. Yep blown quite a variety pushing power in lower gears, even took one out missing a gear once from all the force going to a lower gear, but after 27 years of street driving and track days, never a fifth gear due to breakage, bearing or mainshaft wear, yes but thats another thing all together.

Ill still put my money on a sticking thermo, but a blocked radiator water and or air side can make problems too...you would be shocked by how much crap can be caught inside the cooling fin area and in the water passages. Seen heaps of crap come out of some radiators when reverse flushed, if you do it a few times should be better than it was. Id worry about a water pump impeller failure after following the above tips...some how i doubt it though. Thermo should be changed every now and then, best done before it overheats or under heats, they do fail.

Get a non genuine thermo and radiator fluid, probably $20 for the thermo if you can find one and less than $20 for some coolant, less than $10 for some blue silastic all the rest is spanner work. Less than $50...most likely $40 should cover it. Go genuine Nissan thermo and fluid and id recommend seeing a bank manager first.

Hmm, some unusual ideas here. Firstly you wont strip 5th gear cruzing on light throttle at any speed....no pressure on the gear set or main shaft. Selecting a gear to run at a lower rpm is the preferred method to save fuel, that means short shifting, ie getting to the next gear ASAP. Where it works against you is if you lug the engine, ie the engine speed is so low that its fighting and pinging its self to death....there is a balance, low revs, light throttle...need to go quicker, then gear down and wind it out a little. Treat the right pedal like there is a egg under your foot, yes keep it off boost, watch the gauge, you want it as far into the negative scale as possible, whenever possible. Dont on the gas, off the gas, hold it steady like a balancing act, light small adjustments to hold your speed. Read the traffic ahead, if you see cars stopped at the lights ahead, get off the right pedal early and let the momentum get you there while the speed washes off, you will save using the brakes as much too. Keep you tire pressures up, to the high side, it reduces rolling resistance and saves fuel. Dont go overboard, 40 psi and your tires will wear more in the center, i run 34 psi. Keep weight down....get all that junk out of the boot, run with 20 ltrs of fuel rather than a full tank, 40 ltrs weighs quite a bit. Besides when you do need to give it the boot, being lighter = quicker. Edit; almost forgot the most important thing...keep it tuned, spark and air filters must be clean.

Tell you what id be doing if im unsure. Make sure your fan belt is reasonably tight and not slipping. Then dont muck around, change the thermostat, ive seen them get sticky and need heaps of heat to wake them up in some cars. If you want to be extra cautious take your radiator out at the same time, turn it upside down and run a garden hose in it to reverse flush it. You could also hose out and obstructions in the cooling fin area while its out. Bleed all the air out when finished. At least do the thermostat and bleeding if your too lazy to pull the radiator out. It will only cost you a thermo and some coolant, nice and cheap to do.

If the temp drops while cruzing at a steady speed with lots of air flowing into the radiator but goes up while standing or low speed, its your clutch fan most likely. If its generally high all the time regardless its most likely the thermostat, crap blocking the radiator air flow or sludge blocking the radiator water flow. If its losing water it may be the radiator cap, water leak from a split hose or water pump or a head gasket. Head gaskets tend to let out steam out of the exhaust and/or water into the oil in which case your oil will turn milky white.

Did it always idle high? If it only just started happening out of the blue it could be your throttle body and intake gaskets have cracked, they are known to go brittle and leak air past them. If you develop a miss fire off boost at say 1500rpm till boost, its a sure sign, my intake gasket had 3 places it was leaking from. Also check hoses for cracks/leaks etc. Hopefully it was just a little adjusting and not a leak somewhere....

Check your AFM's, clean the probes with contact cleaner, and check your connections to them. They are known to get dry solder joints, if moving the terminal/s improves things its possible to open them up by cutting the black gum around the black square top and resolder all the terminals. Try a set from a mate to see if the problem goes away before opening them up.

@NISSANGTS, sounds good, pm sent and thank you. Jason, do you know if the center hole in the spare rim is larger in the GTR compered to your GTSt? Are the gtr and gtst spares the same...would help me broaden my search. Im trying to work out what the rim ive got came out of, im starting to think it may be off a S13-15. Defiantly its got a smaller hole than the GTR axle, its got me baffled. Lucky i noticed it before i had a flat and was stranded on the side of the road. LOL

Thanks for the offer Jason, i have a spare but its most likely off a gts-t, the center hole wont fit over the hubs but it will get it through RW. Great gesture and thank you. GGG, pm on the way. Still looking....