GTRPSI

Actually space saver wheels with the right rated tyres might not be banned.

So you tested it while hot under full pressure braking with the master full of vacuum while the caliper flexes under high speed load? You 100% sure it wont leak? Hence why the oring should always be replaced......

Set your oil pressure Via the Tomie pump according to your bearing clearances, oil weight and RPM limit for the engine internals to survive. Then sort out your turbo oil feed restrictor. Pointless lowering your oil pressure to suit your turbo feed if your running big bearing clearances and intend to rev to 9000......engine will just eat itself out internally if the engines oil pressure is not there at higher RPM's The turbo oil feed rate is adjusted after you have sorted your engines working oil pressure.

But its a solid pin.....and how on earth would it appear when taking a head off? Im convinced he is looking for something "thinking" it was supposed to be there......

gosh darn Yeah. Edit.....how the hell does the F word turn into "Gosh Darn" LOL

Sad to hear your motor let go, any idea why? RB30 hammer time?

Off the record, your not supposed to split the calipers, the bolts are torque to yield items and should be replaced, as should the oring that seals the 2 halves. Having said that, i know heaps of people who have split them and reused the old bolts.....but with a new oring. Yep, you have to bleed now, no ifs or buts about it.....dont even think about driving it, you don't know how much air got in.

Sure a oil restrictor didn't pop out? The only thing i can think of...but really highly unlikely.... Or part of a valve guide? Factory ones are known to break off. Maybe post a pic of what you found, maybe we can ID it?

2 large ones...OK. But a smaller one? Where did you find it?

Unplug, replug sensor. If no go, replacing it would be a good start. Also make sure all your chassis grounds are all on......just in case.....

Yep.... Can you get to the one at the back of the block and head while the engines fitted? Cant get to the one at the back of the head even with the gearbox removed. If you know a way kindly enlighten me.

Perfect of setting spark plugs and "straightening" the vein.

I wouldn't dream of running any high volume oil pump without a larger sump and smaller restrictor. If your planning to run the engine at lowish RPM's and small short highish RPM's on the rare occasion your fine as you are. Personally i cannot fathom why someone would question a higher capacity oil sump when knowing the oiling issues RB's have and cost of a rebuild, especially while the engine is still out......

cum

I just looked in the catalog, they have the outer to suit your requirements, you just need hats made up.... Go to their website, click on products, click on 5000 series road and race and download the catalog. DBA52804.1 is 360X32X70 pad width, its about 3/4 of the way down the PDF file. Further down there is a 370mm one but its 68mm for the pad, you could shave the bottom of your pads by 2mm if need be.....

VE HSV are 365mm X 32mm. I just pulled one out to look at it and the flats are 62mm ...damn... On a side note someone was showing me the DBA's 2 piece catalog the other day and im sure you will find what you need there, then match it up to the hat and offset you need.

Tomei oil pump, 1.2mm oil restrictor, increased capacity sump and a oil breather fitting on the sump above oil level. This is assuming you have a long nose collar (or a 33/34 crank) fitted already.....if you dont, watch out whatever pump you fit.

I was seriously considering the car, and i was not joking with my 6K offer on the first page. However after seeing pics, that purple pic shows on hell of a non stock glass body, put me right off it, would be a headache to bring her back to the stock body shape, then deal with all the other repairs. Im being seriously honest, if you get offers around $6K take it and run. (no im not one of the people making the offers, just saying) Most likely will be bought by someone who does not know better like you did.....

Bore can be slightly bigger than suggested, .004" is fine. Most cheap bore gauges wont distinguish between .0035" and .004" accurately. Get your machine shop to measure them in front of you at various points down the bore in the X and Y plane and note them. Ring end gap depends on the boost and purpose of the engine, i wouldn't run .008" end gaps unless it was a very low boost tight daily driver. If you turn up the boost and lay into it a bit aim for 16 to 20 thou with the latter based on serious power numbers.....60 thou, somethings not quite right.......

And when your done vacuuming out what you can, your last step would be to crank her over with all the plugs out to blow out what you missed (if anything was missed)

When putting new plugs in, bottom the plug out in the hole by hand with a extension, then tighten 2/3 to 3/4 (max) of a turn extra. So run them in till they reach the end, then tighten the last 2/3-3/4 turn more. Just use your left hands fingers to keep the extension centered while the right hand turns the extension.

Painted or powder coated? Go powder coated....

You didnt crack it from overtighting it, you cracked it because you didnt hold the socket straight at some point while tightening. If your holding the spark plug properly and tighten hard enough you will strip the threads in the head and the porcelain part will still be fine. .

Any of the neutral colors like Greys and Blacks will work and be a safe bet. White on white ill bet the white wont match exactly or any other bright strong color wont work unless you want to scream look at me im a drifter..... Id be going Blacks or Greys.

I had some unknown HKS turbos on my GTR that the previous owner told me were 2540's (very wrong) When we removed them the wheels were -5, the front housing was -7 and only the HKS cast dumps that came with them would fit, proper GTR dumps wouldn't bolt on. I spent 2 nights straight trying to work out what they were by measuring up everything, eventually i gave up as it was not listed in any Garrett or HKS chart. ID plates were also removed only the HKS casting was there on the front. Eventually they ended up on a R33 GTR that safely made 380Kw at all 4 on E85 on a safe tune........apparently there was a lot left in them but the owner didnt want to push it as he had a stock bottom end. Very responsive too after pon cams, cam gears and a good tune......