GTRPSI

Its fine, its as even as you could get, especially if your not burning oil.

Fully sic yuleh

Pfft, what you cannot see cant hurt you.

Simply compression and leakdown test it, should give you the cylinder and valve seal condition of it. Also note the cold and hot oil pressure for oil pump and bearing wear. Other than that 2003 was a very long time ago. It could have been the worlds best rebuild or even a brand new engine used but if the previous owner thrashed it, had a bad tune, ran cheap oil, didn't service it, leaned into it cold or drove it while it overheated, nothing but a rebuild will save it if it shows signs of wear. Speaking of which i looked into a Toyota engines oil filler hole today with only 80,000Km on the clock and the whole inner surface was covered in crud from running it on cheap oil, service book was all stamped on time by a Toyota dealership too.

When you changed your plugs did you adjust the gap correctly and use the right plugs? Did you check the coil packs for arcing and tape them up if you saw some? Did you use dielectric grease around the boots before you put the coils in? Is the coil pack loom OK?

G sensors are repairable, ive fixed a few. Most times its one of the 2 ceramic caps has blown inside, $1 later and with the use of a soldering iron and quick re-trim the of the variable pots for voltage outputs and its good to go.

around

Id say your jumper leads are farked or your earth is bad. Last year i tried my new jumper leads and got nothing, i had 2 neighbors pull out theirs and still got nothing, i went and picked up a home made set i built back in the early 80's from some old battery cable i had left over from a boot battery relocation and it started. Tested all the first lot of cables again and they still didnt work. You would be surprised how modern jumper leads are crap.....had me wondering how many people have been through this and ended up changing their starter motor thinking it was the culprit.

This.....

I agree, in GTR circles we have a saying, "Anyone can afford to buy a GTR but very few can afford to keep it". Ill start the offers at $6K

Lifting a dip stick is related to ring blowbye, not head gasket if the oil is not milky white, milky white oil then yes possibly a blown head gasket or split bore. Dig deeper, check out under the oil filler cap for whitish gunk, oil in water, water in oil and pull the plugs out to check for the miss fire and pay attention to the color of the plugs. If one of the plugs is rusted or really clean, id say water is getting into that cylinder.

That would be a absolute total pain in the arse. RB26 run with shims without issues when staying around factory shim thicknesses. Our current setup is 280 degree 11.5mm lift cams with thicker buckets but with stock thickness shims, the only reason i went for the thicker buckets was because of the thicker shim issues. Another head near my place was assembled with the same spec cams and same bucket/shim setup for a 28 thats turning over 9000Rpm ATM without shims falling out. Both us use new double valve springs with seat preload and lift tension checked and adjusted with shims also under the valve springs, something which most workshops dont check and adjust. That can make of break your valve bounce issues......never assume that the seat pressure is correct even when using new springs, all you need is a valve that sits a little deeper and you know whats going to happen.....always put a little more spring preload in because they will go soft with high lift cams and heat cycles, not too much because you dont want to chew out your nice new cams.

When saying shimless, you actually mean the thicker buckets as you still need to shim them anyway to achieve the correct valve clearance. Its to do with the base circle of the cam, if its smaller than stock you need thicker shims, or use the thicker lifter with thinner shims. Now having said that, most shims that ive seen spat out where when smaller base circle cams were used with standard buckets and thicker shims. For some reason the thinner shims used with thicker buckets stay in place better than the thicker shims with stock buckets...... Yes valve float is the enemy.

Thats a oil passage bung, you remove it to clean the oil galleries. Edit, same bung is in the back of the block so you can get a rifle cleaner through there.... Id say your leak (if water) is coming from the pump above.

I saw a BF falcon with something similar today. I helped the owner pull it apart to find the bolts holding the handbrake mechanism had undone themselves and were so far out that they were hitting the back of the wheel studs. Never would have guessed it till we opened her up......

The more times the better as long as the studs never been overtightened. (therefore over stressed and weakened) Each time you wear the nut and washer it smooths it out better, however if using ARP lube it makes not much difference as its that good as a lubricant.

Ummm....no.....its set at the stretch/tension setting of the last belt that was on. Belts stretch, belt tension varies, head gasket thickness vary, heads can be skimmed making them sit lower, lots and lots of variables. Even a brand new engine has its timing checked on assembly. You have been warned by many above my posts....use a timing light.

Who cares if he has a timing light, thats not what he asked for. Waiting for the ive lost compression thread.

Yeah pretty easy to calculate.... Every 1 turn of the CAS is 2 turns of the crank. So move the CAS 1 degree is 2 degrees in crank timing or 30 seconds of CAS movement for every crank degree. Convert your degrees to mm taking into the consideration of the outside diameter of the CAS unit using simple basic high school math......

Latest work with Hydrogen generating has turned to high frequency resonance, Stan Meyer was secretly working on this before he passed away. One mob bought all his toridal design for millions from the family, took it to the US, got investors in and got it working, the US Govt stepped in and shut them up under national securities laws, let it out and its jail, they attempted to move all the work off shore and were stopped. Not so long ago someone stumbled on it by accident.....

Im Croatian, naturally everything is a conspiracy. (Now you can sort of understand why i got into it) Looking back at all these clips makes me want to get back into it.

Thats the most common argument used. Google and research a bit about the history of "Stan Meyer", it was my interest in his work (and death) that got me into it. Interesting how he was offered a lot of money to sell his idea (or suppress it) and when he refused he died with many conspiracy theories following the news. Hydrogen is also being generated using solar now. Lots of clips below in the youtube link. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=stan+meyers+water+powered+car https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stanley_Meyer's_water_fuel_cell Meyer's deathStanley Meyer died suddenly on March 20, 1998 after dining at a restaurant. His brother claimed that during a meeting with two Belgian investors in a restaurant, Meyer suddenly ran outside, saying "They poisoned me".[1] After an investigation, the Grove City police went with the Franklin County coroner report that ruled that Meyer, who had high blood pressure, died of a cerebral aneurysm.[1] Meyer's supporters continued to claim that he was assassinated in order to suppress his inventions.[1][2][12]

I only got into it because i have this little nutty experimentation side. Im the type that wont sleep at night if i know there maybe something hidden from the public by the big oil corps......had to prove it to myself. Yes its easy enough to generate Hydrogen, it gets a little more complex circuit wise when you start switching polarities at high frequencies but still easy to do as there are heaps of circuits freely available on the web specifically for this that are not hard to build, yes doing so dramatically increases hydrogen output. Eventually my work load pulled me away from going further, i still have all the setup tucked away in a box for when i retire so i can amuse (or blow up) myself.

Yes generating hydrogen gas, its shit easy to do. It just came to what was nearby, Camry was only there because i did a run to the hardware shop for something and happened to have parked it there when i got back, GTR was used as a test bed just for the connecting to some battery power with alternator so i could set up a ammeter and monitor the current draw with different salt levels and stainless plate setups (larger/smaller plates, more plates/less plates, more salt/less salt). Injecting it in is not a issue, connect hose to intake and let it mix in, on boosted you could simply run it in before the turbo where there is no boost pressure. However, how much gain was really due to water steam vapor? As time went by i started to question the real reason for the small gain in economy.......im putting it down to water vapor injection. My final test bed for the setup was a Ford EA wagon on LPG gas. (it was that long ago)

Hmmm, i know of someone who was recently sacked from a workshop for taking its customers and doing jobs on the side.....i wonder if thats them now......